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Old 01-08-2006, 01:50 PM
MarlinRifleFan

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Refinishing



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Hello,

I would like to refinish my old Marlin Glenfield 60 but I have one problem, there is some nice etching by the pistol grip and I know that sanding would in all probability ruin that. Is there a stripper that would just remove the old finish and not harm the etching?
This may sound like an odd question but I am new to this and I would like to be advised by people who have experience.
Geoff
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Old 01-09-2006, 08:37 PM
bigdaddytacp

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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarlinRifleFan
Hello,

I would like to refinish my old Marlin Glenfield 60 but I have one problem, there is some nice etching by the pistol grip and I know that sanding would in all probability ruin that. Is there a stripper that would just remove the old finish and not harm the etching?
This may sound like an odd question but I am new to this and I would like to be advised by people who have experience.
Geoff
......check with Brownells for some certistrip finish remover.....it will soften and remove the finish without sanding at the impressed grip area and you use a solvent proof brush to get into the small cracks and get the area clean.......the wood on that mod 60 is not walnut but birch or beech......and it won't finish to look good without a stain type finish........to darken the light wood.......Brownells also has several kits to finish and stain this type wood....Birchwood Casey makes some easy to use products..........www.brownells.com enjoy the redo and good luck and good shooting!!
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Old 01-09-2006, 09:22 PM
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shooter05
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Most wallyworld type stores sell a mild citrus stripper that would work fine too. They might have to sit on it a little longer but are easier for first timers to handle because they aren't so strong. I will use a soft bristle toothbrush to get the finish out of the detail when the stripper starts working. Be careful not to flip the bristles towards your eyes. It will screw up your vision if you get stripper in your eyes.
Oh yea, don't use the wifes toothbrush either- she gets so testy about the weirdest things.
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Old 01-09-2006, 11:12 PM
MarlinRifleFan

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BigDaddy,

Thanks for the advice. I was also given advice that had to do with using an iron and a wet cloth to "iron out the imperfections and small nicks in the stock. I am not going to go that route since I have never done this before.


The best part about my refurbishing project is this site. I have gotten a lot of useful advice from a lot of friendly people. and I found out through links sent to me that I can actually can nickel and dime my way to a nice looking and accurate rifle.

Thanks guys.

Last edited by MarlinRifleFan; 01-09-2006 at 11:14 PM.
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Old 01-09-2006, 11:19 PM
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Hey shooter,

I found a stripper at Wally world that is supposed to be gentle on wood ( no, not a cheap hooker although by the sounds of it so far........) and not raise the grain on the stock so my sanding will be minimal.

You are right about the toothbrush, I used my wifes to clean a carb once and she was not too happy with me.
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Old 01-09-2006, 11:43 PM
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Oh you can definatly nickel and dime your way! I have about $15 into this one. It started life as a Marlin Glenfeild Mod 60 now it's Riflezilla!
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Old 01-10-2006, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarlinRifleFan
BigDaddy,

Thanks for the advice. I was also given advice that had to do with using an iron and a wet cloth to "iron out the imperfections and small nicks in the stock. I am not going to go that route since I have never done this before.

Don't be afraid to raise the dents/dings with a damp rag rag and hot iron. It's not at all difficult. Just do one dent at a time after you've stripped the stock. Some dents may require more than one "treatment". Let them dry in between.

If you don't decide to raise the dents, I believe once the stock is finished you will wish you had done it. Just my opinion
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Old 01-10-2006, 11:17 AM
Markbo
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I just left mine as is:


This is the first gun stock work I ever did. Probably 15 years ago. I just got a wild hair that I was tired of the way it looked and started sanding. Finished it with probably a dozen coats of Tung Oil.

You can go here and see a huge version of that pic:
Marlin 60
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Old 01-10-2006, 05:58 PM
general p.

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Believe fullchoke has a good point regarding raising grain in any dents. You could practice beforehand on some dented wood (make some if it is scarce ) then go after it slowly, letting it dry between steam (wet rag) applications. I have done this on furniture and it worked well. Also, use a decent sealer before you apply finish but after you apply any stain, to your stock (just in case you are not aware of the need to reseal). A lighter wood can be beautiful too if you do not wish to darken it, but as said, the darker stain will make the grain jump out. I have refinished a bit of black walnut furniture and find that a tung oil/poly finish named ZAR has worked well for me. Finish is impervious to water, and if you wipe it down with 0000 steel wool, you can obtain a fine satin finish. I have a very old 39A but do not know if refinishing the stock would detract from its value, but it really needs it.
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Old 01-10-2006, 09:10 PM
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i forgot to mention in other threads, a slightly toxic to your health, but well worth it finish, called "conversion varnish" more like a 3 part car paint than a wood finish, but meant specifically for wood. retardedly hard, water proof (w/reservations)and very clear... easy to sand too.
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Old 01-10-2006, 10:13 PM
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Shooter05:
What kind of paint is that on your stock? Was it difficult to work with? I've got a 96/17 that needs a new look.
KC
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Old 01-10-2006, 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by KCinWashington
Shooter05:
What kind of paint is that on your stock? Was it difficult to work with? I've got a 96/17 that needs a new look.
KC
KC I used the Duplicolor Metalcast Red Adonized and Base coat in the rattle can.Then did about 5 coats of spray poly. I am bored of it now so I put it on ebay to check for bites.
It the build that is fun not the finished product.
Already have another stock started and a single shot too.
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