M&P .22 Pistol Assembly w/tips and tricks - Page 2 - RimfireCentral.com Forums

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  #16  
Old 04-14-2014, 11:50 PM
Bigbore
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agksimon View Post
The only thing I did to the trigger on my M&P22 was to polish the hammer, where it contacts the sear. I didn't change any geometry, just a mirror finish. With a tiny dab of aluminum anti-seize in between the hammer and sear, it now breaks at 3lbs, which is half of what it was. The whole process took less than 20 minutes. I've also done this to three friends M&P22's and it's the same 3lb pull on all of them.
Did you polish the hammer while it was assembled or disassemble the gun? Interesting choice of sear lubricant. Any particular reason for your choice? Are you testing the pull weights with a gauge or estimating?

Last edited by Bigbore; 04-15-2014 at 04:50 AM.
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  #17  
Old 04-15-2014, 06:17 AM
agksimon
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I left it in the gun, as there was no need to remove it.
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  #18  
Old 02-25-2015, 12:02 AM
1917-1911M
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You didn't take the breech block apart or remove the firing pin..... Good luck, I found that just a little bit tricky on the big brother model? humb: M1911
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  #19  
Old 02-25-2016, 08:35 AM
ewspears

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I sure would love to get some of this excellent info for the 22Compact!!!
I haven't been able to find any complete tear down and reassembly instructions, pictures, or videos on the internet!
Please HELP!!!!!
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  #20  
Old 05-08-2016, 10:11 PM
1917-1911M
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Well, I'm working on mine. To remove the sear all you do after removing the slide is push out the retaining pin. There are only three parts to it. Sear, retaining pin and a small torsion spring on the side. The spring set up is different from the full size model. The hammer hook which is on top of the hammer is easily access for polishing or whatever you might want to do. I would not change any angles....the set up looks pretty neutral as far as angles go....compact model. There is quite a bit of travel though and I intend to polish, then shorten the sear for less engagement. My stock trigger breaks at 5 lb 3 oz and is rough. I will polish first and then test again with my Lyman digital. Pictures will be added in a bit. The trigger bar layout is similar except there is a leaf spring on the right side that rides against the polymer frame. The spring keeps the rear of the trigger bar engaged with the sear. If you begin pulling the trigger against the mag safety the rear of the trigger bar pivots to the right and disengages from the proper alignment necessary to operate the sear.

I don't see much reason to polish the trigger bar....mine is smooth as silk right out of the box as long as the sear and hammer are disengaged from movement. If I decide to keep the pistol I will glue the trigger in the straight position and install a pre travel stop. The mag safety can also be easily modified so as to not require the trigger to be let as far forward for it to engage.

The reason I might not keep the pistol is that I am not happy with the accuracy of the first barrel the pistol came with. Smith just put a new barrel on it and it appears worse than the first one.



While the crown isn't damaged on this barrel, it isn't anything special either. But the entire length of the barrel has very rough valleys and all of the lands have annular rings from dull cutters from the chamber to the muzzle. From a Ransom type rest an old P22 ate the lunch of the Smith.

Walther btw makes the full size pistol including the barrel for Smith and it is similar to the PPQ .22. Smith makes the compact including the barrel. It is very similar to the full size pistol but does have a few differences and so far about every barrel I've looked at is substandard. Smith uses a broach method for rifling the compact barrel. M1911
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  #21  
Old 11-09-2016, 02:54 PM
dliebherr

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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1917-1911M View Post
Well, I'm working on mine. To remove the sear all you do after removing the slide is push out the retaining pin. There are only three parts to it. Sear, retaining pin and a small torsion spring on the side. The spring set up is different from the full size model. The hammer hook which is on top of the hammer is easily access for polishing or whatever you might want to do. I would not change any angles....the set up looks pretty neutral as far as angles go....compact model. There is quite a bit of travel though and I intend to polish, then shorten the sear for less engagement. My stock trigger breaks at 5 lb 3 oz and is rough. I will polish first and then test again with my Lyman digital. Pictures will be added in a bit. The trigger bar layout is similar except there is a leaf spring on the right side that rides against the polymer frame. The spring keeps the rear of the trigger bar engaged with the sear. If you begin pulling the trigger against the mag safety the rear of the trigger bar pivots to the right and disengages from the proper alignment necessary to operate the sear.



I don't see much reason to polish the trigger bar....mine is smooth as silk right out of the box as long as the sear and hammer are disengaged from movement. If I decide to keep the pistol I will glue the trigger in the straight position and install a pre travel stop. The mag safety can also be easily modified so as to not require the trigger to be let as far forward for it to engage.



The reason I might not keep the pistol is that I am not happy with the accuracy of the first barrel the pistol came with. Smith just put a new barrel on it and it appears worse than the first one.







While the crown isn't damaged on this barrel, it isn't anything special either. But the entire length of the barrel has very rough valleys and all of the lands have annular rings from dull cutters from the chamber to the muzzle. From a Ransom type rest an old P22 ate the lunch of the Smith.



Walther btw makes the full size pistol including the barrel for Smith and it is similar to the PPQ .22. Smith makes the compact including the barrel. It is very similar to the full size pistol but does have a few differences and so far about every barrel I've looked at is substandard. Smith uses a broach method for rifling the compact barrel. M1911






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