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  #1  
Old 06-15-2019, 12:43 PM
RMoran
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581/Timney issues



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Awhile back, Carolina Precision Rifle installed a Rem788 trigger in my 581..they inletted the factory stock for the safety and shortened the bolt stop. Right off the bat the bolt would come right out the back of the receiver when running the gun. CPR put in a new bolt stop and all was good for awhile.
Since then the gun has had some money sunk into in, including a Anschutz barrel and shoots very well. But, I'm back to the bolt leaving the receiver...maybe 50/50 60/40...it happens often enough that i don't enjoy shooting the gun anymore.

I'm guessing that trimming the bolt stop goes thru any heat treat and the it wears down faster....maybe the slot in the bolt is the culprit..but it doesn't look like it.

Does anyone know of a smith that has experience with this modification? CPR is not longer around...and I moved across the country, would like to avoid shipping the whole gun. Barring fixing the Timney, I'd be ready to put a factory trigger back in the gun and live with the heavier trigger...the original is long gone.

There is a local guy that says they have a guy on call that was a Remington authorized repair smith for ever....so I may give them a go.

Anyone have any insight, ideas, thoughts?....wanna buy a Remshutz?
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Old 06-15-2019, 08:59 PM
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I will have to take a look at one of mine and see how it looks. Did you try adjusting the weight to a little heavier and see if it quits?
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Old 06-15-2019, 09:24 PM
RMoran
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Was hoping you would respond.

I hadn't thought the weight might make a difference, mostly just going by what the 'smith had said.

I did find one stock trigger on ebay, 'bout 80 bucks. Doing any work to it, outside that ernie the gunsmith spring, is far beyond my skill level.
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  #4  
Old 06-15-2019, 11:58 PM
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Does the Timney have a bolt stop spring like the original trigger? If so maybe a stronger spring would keep the stop from jumping out of the groove? Also as I recall the Timney has a square front on the bolt stop that has to be rounded to match the groove of the 581 bolt? Maybe the end of the groove in bolt is wearing. I would try the stiffer spring.

Last edited by HUSHKABOOM; 06-16-2019 at 12:00 AM.
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Old 06-16-2019, 07:46 AM
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I think Hush was right on the money. The bolt stop has to be shaped properly.
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Old 06-16-2019, 11:30 AM
RMoran
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Well, the trigger hanger snapped.

In an effort to remove the trigger to examine the bolt stop, I saw the front screw that bears against the receiver, seemed loose, so I started to tighten it...thinking maybe that was the issue...and snap.

This is why an emphasize I am not up to these things....

So, I'm guess the receiver isn't worth much now......sigh
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Old 06-16-2019, 02:18 PM
HUSHKABOOM
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Sorry to hear of the problem. Very frustrating and can cause use of foul language! That is a common occurrence with these actions. It is actually a simple repair but requires a good welder to silver braze the lug back on. I think a good Tig welder could also do the work. I have even seen a hole drilled and tapped for a new stud to be threaded into the action.
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Old 06-16-2019, 02:38 PM
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Bummer, I wish you were close by as a half hour in the shop could go a long ways in fixing that. Like Hush said if you know someone that is a decent welder they could fix it for you. Doesn't sound like you were cranking on it, the damage was probably already done.
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Old 06-16-2019, 05:41 PM
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I found the email address for Brian Voelker....but I coulda swore I heard he was no longer taking work...getting older..I'll ping him tomorrow.

Otherwise, I'm not sure of any rifle smiths around Salt Lake...I know a guy who is a well know 1911 builder, I may ask him if he knows anyone. The guys on Snipershide may know a 'smith willing to take on the job, but not sure how much more money I can throw at this.

I may just retire it....
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  #10  
Old 07-26-2019, 06:13 PM
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Update,
I was able to find a guy that micro tig welded the trigger bracket back...shipping to and from and labor was less then $100
He also thought the reciever had been dropped or something as he had a hard time getting the bolt in the gun, w/o the trigger in place. He eventually got it, don't know what that was all about.

Gun is back together, but still has the intermittent bolt stop failures...right now I;m considering a stock trigger on ebay...if for no other reason then to eliminate possibilities.
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  #11  
Old 07-27-2019, 10:12 AM
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I have two 581's, my favorite with a custom walnut stock and the 2nd with the factory stock. What I did with the factory trigger in both was smooth the sear engagement with a hard Arkansas stone and put a lighter spring in them. Both have trigger pulls of 2lbs with no creep. I also have 2nd action screw in each, action glass bedded and barrel floated.
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  #12  
Old 07-31-2019, 06:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RMoran View Post
Update,
I was able to find a guy that micro tig welded the trigger bracket back...shipping to and from and labor was less then $100
He also thought the reciever had been dropped or something as he had a hard time getting the bolt in the gun, w/o the trigger in place. He eventually got it, don't know what that was all about.

Gun is back together, but still has the intermittent bolt stop failures...right now I;m considering a stock trigger on ebay...if for no other reason then to eliminate possibilities.
I wish I had checked here earlier in your troubles as I had a jig made to locate the trigger boss in the correct location. I would have gladly loaned it to you.

The trouble your welder/gunsmith experienced was possibly the rotation of the front half of the bolt. Depending on the age of the gun, keeping the bolt's front half aligned properly can be a challenge with the trigger removed.
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Old 08-01-2019, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cowboy4 View Post
I wish I had checked here earlier in your troubles as I had a jig made to locate the trigger boss in the correct location. I would have gladly loaned it to you.

The trouble your welder/gunsmith experienced was possibly the rotation of the front half of the bolt. Depending on the age of the gun, keeping the bolt's front half aligned properly can be a challenge with the trigger removed.
Yeah, that is what I thought, but he felt something had been damaged, then emialed and said he had fixed it, so...who knows.

Only the bottom half of the boss was broken off....so he micro tig welded it....he charged me $50 total with return shipping included...

It is not really his thing, but I'll say this, if you need some revolver work or 1911 work done, I highly recommend you check out Defensive Creations

As for the original problem....I'm contemplating buying a factory trigger, and seeing if that solves the problem, a new bolt is $150 to over $200
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Old 08-01-2019, 01:11 PM
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Instead of doing that why don't you PM me your address, I should have an extra 581 trigger sitting here I will send you. If it fixes your gun we can talk about what to do. Is there a weight you like it as I can change that to suit your needs. Let me know as I hate to see you struggling with that rifle. If it doesn't help then you can just send it back.
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Old 08-01-2019, 05:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cowboy4 View Post
I wish I had checked here earlier in your troubles as I had a jig made to locate the trigger boss in the correct location. I would have gladly loaned it to you.

The trouble your welder/gunsmith experienced was possibly the rotation of the front half of the bolt. Depending on the age of the gun, keeping the bolt's front half aligned properly can be a challenge with the trigger removed.
I have three 581s and a 580, and the "rotating" front of the bolt can be a real pain! Two of mine are later models with a spring-loaded pin at the top of the bolt that locks the front of the bolt in the proper alignment for insertion into the receiver. The others will "spin at will" (theirs, not yours) and you need to be fussy about aligning them before putting them into the receiver. And even then, they will sometimes turn out of alignment and refuse to go all the way in and need to be re-oriented -- again. I've found that turning the rifle (or receiver ) upside-down will work better as the front half of the bolt is top-heavy.

Just a suggestion...

Doug
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