How I adjusted the trigger on my Marlin 60 (Drawing) - Page 11 - RimfireCentral.com Forums

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  #151  
Old 01-09-2009, 02:43 AM
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Looks like alot of good information. Mine is a older Model 60 than in the diagram and mine has a fairly stiff trigger (can lift gun while cocked by trigger) but doing this trick is premature on mine cause im missing the whole butt of the stock on this gun. The trigger though I removed the assebly from the stock and he spring on the trigger itself is fairly soft. The stiffness in the trigger on mine is he safetypin style spring that the trigger has to bend by sliding a slide lever forward.

I am not fully sure but I assume that the jbweld is used to take the play out of the trigger am I correct?

I am not sure what is normal but on my trigger I have just under 1/16" play in the trigger. Not sure if this is normal or if I should consider jb welding the trigger cam or if a new trigger would take the play out.
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  #152  
Old 01-17-2009, 07:33 PM
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will this work with a marlin 70pss/papoose?

I have a marlin 70pss papoose and saw this thread. I am wondering if any of the trigger mods will work with my rifle? I have a super heavy trigger and cannot find any papoose specific mods.

thanks.
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  #153  
Old 01-20-2009, 01:50 AM
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I answered my own question and going to bed. Yes, the trigger mods will/should work on the marlin papoose. Some of the parts are different but close enough that with the powerpoint slider and my parts list for the papoose and making sure I took lots of pictures at each step it all came apart and more importantly back together again.

I overcompressed the trigger spring as well as the disconnector sprint (part 11). I cut half a loop of of the hammer spring (part 25) and tried to make it flat but could not get that to work but it also stayed put on the hammer strut (part 26) and sat on the hammer strut bridge (part 26) just fine. I added jb weld to the trigger and added more using jb kwik and then sanded slowly until it just fit in behind the disconnector. My thought was the trigger return spring would not be necessary if the trigger 'nose' is built up to fit exactly behind the disconnector but I am not that knowledgeable about gunsmith or guns for that matter to remove it.

With all parts removed I degreased everything and the used my dremel and flitz and red rouge and the buffing wheel and polished everything that moved, touched, rubbed, slid, revolved. I then cleaned again with Hoppes no 9 solvent (got high sniffing fumes) and then greased with tetra gun grease and added remoil to the grooves in the receiver (part 40) and Breech bolt (part 4).

Did not lose springs or clips. I wont know if the gun will work until it is fully reassembled but a couple of dry fires and an inaccurate test with a luggage weight scale gave me a tight 3lb trigger. Before it was crunchy and very heavy. I can only hope it all works. Will post after shooting later this week. I will see if I can post my pictures of the take down. They are not the best but will get the message across...i think.

Thanks for this!
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  #154  
Old 01-20-2009, 07:40 PM
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My trigger pull scale is more sophisticated. 3 cans of beer in a plastic grocery sac, but to each his own. Expect some trimming in with the JB weld thing. The disconnector requires more clearance, to reset, than you would think.
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  #155  
Old 01-21-2009, 12:22 AM
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In the course of the day I remembered more areas that I could have polished and again I am up late polishing. Looking again at the trigger and action and the interaction of the sear spring (part 46) and the disconnector spring (part 11) I notice that there is a delicate balance between the two. Things are all working dry firing with the parts all clean and shiny. It remains to be seen what happens with a few hundred rounds through it.

I also saw that on the marlin papoose with a plastic trigger that is very similar to the 60 as I think parts are very similar as my parts list also includes models 795SS, 7000, and 795 and the 70pss/papoose. The trigger spring with is not listed as an individual part could almost be removed if the trigger nose is bullt up to rest directly on the disconnector. Someone correct me if I am wrong. Also, the pins holding the trigger in place have play and likely could be punched out and polished and buttressed someway with a bushing. I am not going to go that far yet but I'll see how I sleep.
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  #156  
Old 02-02-2009, 02:50 PM
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I just wanted to thank LD Thomton and all the posters in this awesome thread!

I started out with a creepy, gritty 9lb. trigger and, with all this encouragement, I made many of the mods discussed here. I left the hammer spring alone with the hope of avoiding any extra FTFs but I still ended up with a smooth, crisp 5 - 5.5lb. pull. I think it's fine for the general plinking I do and a far, far nicer trigger, frankly, than I expected.

The RFC M60 group rocks!
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  #157  
Old 02-02-2009, 03:26 PM
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I'm glad you got a better trigger from reading all the posts here. The pooled minds of the RFC members came up with tons of excellent options to help fellow Marlin 60 owners tame those triggers.
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  #158  
Old 02-08-2009, 09:16 AM
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Thanks to Mr.Thornton

I must admit I didn't know how much I could to my wifes old model 60W's trigger at first, I read this Model 60 forum for days and finally decided to do some tinkering myself. I was surprised to find my wifes 60 had a 5.5lbs pull the first time I put the trigger gauge on it.But I wanted to use her 60W for shooting open sight matches at my sportsmans club, so it needed some work done to it. Looking at the guts of this beast I knew I didn't have the knowledge to start knocking pins out and buff and polish the sear and so on, so I decided to just first clean everything and get the gunk out ,which wasn't done in a long time.Then I opened up all the spirings I could with a straight screwdriver as mentioned in the first page of the post.I didn't want to cut any springs, being my wifes gun, so I made a quick trip to the hardware store and got a slighty light hammer spring,same size just lighter tension and put that in and buttoned everything back together.Checked it with the trigger guage and had 3.5lbs nice but still not were I wanted it.Yesterday I was reading this forum again and I somehow missed the trigger return spring.So I got out the 60W and replace the trigger return spring with a pen spring and low and behold it dropped almost another pound.So I took this 60W from 5.5 to 2.5 lbs. with a few simple changes anyone could do. I just wanted to thank LD Thornton for the great wealth of information on this forum.
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  #159  
Old 02-11-2009, 06:06 AM
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I see no pics in the first page. Did they disappear again or is it just me?
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  #160  
Old 02-17-2009, 09:13 PM
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here's another one that got a better trigger just by doing the floppy disc spring to the trigger.It helped some but not enough.I have had the action out and looked at it but haven't got my courage up enough to take it apart yet.It doesn't look like I can make any difference until I do.I'm afraid if I take it apart I won't be able to get it back together.sj
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  #161  
Old 02-17-2009, 09:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjones View Post
here's another one that got a better trigger just by doing the floppy disc spring to the trigger.It helped some but not enough.I have had the action out and looked at it but haven't got my courage up enough to take it apart yet.It doesn't look like I can make any difference until I do.I'm afraid if I take it apart I won't be able to get it back together.sj
If you are going to take the action apart ArrowDodger has got you covered. Watch his powerpoint slide-show that he and his daughter put together here. He makes it look easy: https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...d.php?t=197703
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  #162  
Old 02-17-2009, 11:23 PM
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You can do it. I knew nothing about guns and I did it to a papoose. Here is a trick learned from working on fishing reels. Do not do anything without have a schematic. Take. Piece of cardboard and put rows of double stick tape down. As you remove parts put them on the double stick and number them in the sequence they are removed and if you want in parenthesis put the schematic number down also. If you have a digital camera take a photo with every part removed. Eventually it will be broken down. Clean, polish, replace, snip, lube, etc. Then reverse the process. Make sure the area is clean and uncluttered and very well lit. Nothing to it. No good lucks needed. Not necessary.
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  #163  
Old 02-17-2009, 11:48 PM
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Thanks LD,I downloaded the instructions to my desktop,now I can follow them step by step.I will try it on my next day off so I'm wide awake.I work the graveyard shift and some nights I'm just not all there.sj
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  #164  
Old 02-18-2009, 11:13 AM
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After reading this sticky i got brave and stripped down my model 60. I removed a little metal from the engagement surface of the hammer and took a little off the sear and polished both. After that i weakened the trigger return spring, transfer bar spring and the sear spring.

I went from being able to hold the rifle and scope up by the trigger to a trigger pull thats just around 4 lbs.
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  #165  
Old 02-19-2009, 07:44 PM
sjones
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Well,I got my courage up today and tore my action completely down and just took some 400 grit sandpaper and cleand up everything.I didn't take any metal off,just tried to polish everything up.I had a little trouble getting it all back together but finaly got it back together,except I lost one of the e-rings and spent a good 30 minutes trying to find it and gave up,so I left the one that goes to the buffer off,I figured that would be the least important.I loaded it up and stepped out the back door and popped off 5 pretty fast and no problems,all fired and ejected fine.sj
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