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Sighting advice (iron sights)

642 views 8 replies 4 participants last post by  eflyguy 
#1 ·
I've scanned just about every thread I can find, but most apply to scopes. I have two questions, but first..

I bought a used (but "shipped 2020" according to serial number lookup, and very clean) SS carbine a couple of days ago. I will be using this for a monthly 100-yd iron-sight match, my daughter and I will be sharing.

Sent 150 rounds (Federal Target and American Eagle) through it yesterday. I really struggled with the sights, particularly the rear as I simply can not focus that close. I can easily sight down the front and target.

So I have made an aperture/peep insert that I am sure will make a world of difference, but here's what I think will be the challenge - hence question 1: how do I sight this at the local range (25yd) for shooting at 100yd?

My thought, after much reading, is to just zero on that (25yd), then I can change the point of aim at the match. Without on-the-fly windage and elevation adjustments, I won't be fiddling with it there. This also allows us to practice at the range without messing around with adjusting anything.

Question 2 is a little more "practical" - is a laser bore sight about the best way to set this up on the bench? Someone said "look down the bore" - I don't see a way to get my head into the receiver, and I don't want to disassemble it.

Confirmations and corrections solicited!
 
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#2 · (Edited)
Zeroing at 25 yards: Yes it can be done easily. Go to Shooters Calculator.com and plug in the info for the ammo you plan to shoot. Knowing the muzzle velocity of the ammo is most important, the other stuff not so much. Set the zero for 25 yards, go to the graph and find the drop at 100 yards (it should be in the 6" to 7" range depending on the ammo). Let's say the drop chart says the drop at 100 yards is 6", divide the drop by 4 because 25 yards is 1/4 of 100 yards to get the amount of holdover/under needed. Now when you go to the range, set the sights to shoot 1.5" above your point of aim. This should put you in the ballpark.

Laser bore sights are a great tool. Again the ballistics chart is a big help. The laser beam shoots straight, and a bullet shoots in a curve. A bullet climbs coming out of the barrel, combined with the height above the bore the sight sits, the beam and the line of sight only meet at one or two points. Using the ballistic chart will you the intersection points, or the offset above or below at a given distance. A laser bore sight will save a lot of ammo and frustration sighting in. Side note on lasers, the beam will not show up with some red dot sights. The coating on the lens block the laser light.
 
#3 ·
Thanks.

I guess I wasn't clear. I won't be changing the sight between the range (25yd) and the match (100yd.) I also wont be using any optics, this is an iron-sight only match.

The 10/22 sights don't allow for precise adjustment in the field, which is fine. I just hoped to get some feedback on whether sighting for 25 (which I can do at home and test at the local range) then adjusting point of aim for 100yd at the monthly match was a workable strategy.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Sounds like we are talking at crossed that purposes.

Using iron sights, you can either absolute zero at 25 yard and use Kentucky windage (guess) how much to hold over is needed at 100 yards, or set your rifle to shoot 1/4 of the 100yd bullet drop high ( about 2") at 25 yards.

Your rifle should have a reference when moving the sight. Absolute zero at 25 yards, move the sight to shoot high as explained earlier. Count the clicks, lines, steps on the elevator ramp, screw turns, how much you need to have the front sight up stick above your normal sight picture, or whatever it takes to figure the come up from 25 to 100 yards. Worse case scratch a mark to know the amount of up you need to get to 100 yards. This works with irons, scope, red Dot, eyeball, everything.

Just figure what it takes to shoot 2" high at 25 yards, even if it's just "I gotta hold my head (or front sight) like this".
 
#5 ·
Thanks again.

I had posted this in the 10/22 section specifically because the 10/22 rear sight has no fine adjustment (and the front is fixed). You loosen a screw and move a slide. I would expect the width of the graduations would be a few inches @100yds at least.

I hear what you are saying, however. I'll just go with what I have for the first match and get some feedback from shooters there.
 

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#6 ·
For best results in your situation. At 25 yard range zero rifle on bullseye at 6 o’clock hold. Then you will be able to shoot at 50 and 100 yards by centering front sight on bullseye at 50 yards and And using a 12 oclock hold on bulls eye at 100. The laser things are usually junk, Hard to see in daylight, or under fluorescent.so dont bother.

To zero, shoot a few test rounds , aiming at the bullseye. Adjust point of impact , where the holes are relative to the bulls eye, as follows.

FORS. Front Opposite, Rear Same.

If test bullet holes are above the bullseye,lower rear sight or raise front sight.
If test bullet holes are left of the bullseye, move rear sight to the right or front sight to left.


You also might try the hi viz front sight, Amazon $20.you get both front and rear but you can use just the front.

And ps, bullets never rise above the axis of the bore. Thats why barrels always are aimed at an upward angle relative to the line of sight. When your target is above your axis you aim high,and when its below you aim low, when its parallel you aim as noted above. So your daughter , who im assuming is shorter than you should aim a little higher than you at any given target unless you are shooting from the same bench and rest.
 
#9 ·
I made an acrylic aperture insert and used the bore laser to get it close at home. Visited the range with my daughter and put 100 CCI standard "target" rounds thru it. Very happy with the improvement over the stock wedge. The TSR100 will almost certainly be ordered after our first match next weekend..
 

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