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  #1  
Old 10-02-2019, 06:35 PM
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Model 41 Bolt Pin question



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Hello. My 1959/1960 model 41 (ser #15xxx) has been a very reliable tac driver since the first day I shot it in 1979, through the time in the early 1990s when I bought it from my friend, the original owner. Always used CCI sv. In recent years I noticed a total lack of reliability (stovepipe jams). Same ammo, same cleaning regime, terrible results.

Examined the extractor and discovered that at some point prior to my ownership the extractor pin was broken (large section of it missing) and the extractor spring was badly damaged. Replaced the pin and spring but kept the original extractor because the 'hook" was perfect. Also put in a new firing pin (original was in bad shape) and firing pin spring.

When I put everything back together, I used a new bolt pin to finish the job. Unfortunately, the bolt pin would walk out after firing 30 rounds +/-. My research told me that the pin had to be "swaged" in place - fine, I get that. But what I can't find out is exactly what size punch I need to do the job. Dropped the slide off at a LGS (40 miles away) but because the 'smith couldn't get to it for an indefinite period of time, I went back later and brought it home.

I've done a lot of mechanical repairs in my adult life and this doesn't seem to be a very complicated process. What tool do I need and where can I get it? Thanks for your help. Greatly appreciated.
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Old 10-02-2019, 07:08 PM
Domino
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Did you try reusing the old bolt pin? Maybe it is a bigger diameter and would work better.

I have a 41 that someone tried to peen around the pin you are talking about and it looks like hell. Try something else before you go to that measure.
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Old 10-03-2019, 03:00 AM
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The old pin was trashed by the gunsmith who worked on the pistol prior to my buying it. It came out in pieces. Other than actual Smith and Wesson parts, which I bought, I don't know what else I could use. Thanks for the reply.
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Old 10-03-2019, 10:57 AM
aprilian
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I have a bit of black gaffer tape holding my bolt pin in place. Peening the end seemed to not address the walking out, but the tape is perfect.

Shade tree- yes, but I have an engineering degree if I ever need it
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Old 10-03-2019, 03:07 PM
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Thanks. Something to consider.
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Old 10-03-2019, 05:57 PM
Domino
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The bolt pin is not very expensive:

https://www.brownells.com/schematics...x#s34748sid667

I would buy a couple from Brownells and try them to see if one is tighter than the other and go with the tightest.

Or call S&W and see if they will send you one. You might explain your situation and see what they say.
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Old 10-04-2019, 07:30 AM
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Already bought three from Brownells - no help. Thanks for the reply.
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Old 10-04-2019, 12:39 PM
aprilian
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On mine it is that the slide hole on the right is slightly oversized (Mine was well used when I acquired it - perhaps it was over-sized from wear when peening?). Ovalizing the pin end at this time makes it too tight to get through the bolt.

New slide vs. ugly tape made it an easy choice .
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Old 10-04-2019, 12:40 PM
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Yes. Not my first rodeo. Thanks for the reply.
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Old 10-06-2019, 11:13 AM
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Hi Gator, this is how I did it.

On mine the solid part of the pin protrudes a bit on the left side. I used brass plate, and a starting punch with approx 70 degrees of angle.

I taped the left side of the slide( to avoid scuffs even though it was on brass), leaving the pin protrusion exposed, laid the protrusion on the brass plate, which was on a wood block, and clamped it steady with wood. I used the starter punch to start spreading the pin.

THEN

I laid a steel bb on the pin, and got a 3/4 inch brass rod ( which I intended to use as a drift, and drilled a small divot in it so the bb wouldn't squirt out.

I then gave the bb a good whack with a hammer and my "drift" and problem solved.

Please note, I do these type things all the time, so I have no fear of missing the mark and damaging anything. Also, I have tools, scrap metal and such around to easily mock up tools and fixtures.

I am not saying my method is correct.

It did however work well. 2 years and no issues.

Good luck
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Old 10-06-2019, 01:34 PM
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Thanks for the reply.

I did something similar but using a centering punch and following the advice of a retired LEO who is a S&W armorer and answered my question on the S&W forum. So far it looks good. Ill be range testing the pistol this week.
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Old 10-08-2019, 01:38 PM
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During my quest for an answer to my original question I reached out to Smith and Wesson for their advice. They responded within a few days with the following:

"What you can do is put a very slight bend in the pin then reinsert it. This should keep it in place."

I honestly don't know if I would ever attempt this suggested "fix" but thought I would share S&W's reply just in case someone wants to give it a try.

I'm now done with this topic. Thanks to all who responded.
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  #13  
Old 10-08-2019, 03:11 PM
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Gator,
That is a common fix. Ruger has a sight pin that moves on their single six. That is exactly the suggested fix.
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Old 10-11-2019, 05:37 AM
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Range tested the fix suggested by a poster on the S&W forum (using a centering punch) yesterday. Two hundred rounds of CCI std. velocity didn't cause the pin to move at all. If, at some point in the future, the pin starts walking out I'll attempt the fix suggested by S&W. Thanks again for your replies and have a great day. Ed
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