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Can you swap bolts between the same model of guns?

7K views 83 replies 15 participants last post by  SBS 
#1 ·
Might be able to pick up a 52b or 52c gun (don’t know which and probably from the 40’s or 50’s if I had to guess).

Problem is it is missing the bolt but I have found a place with 1 of each.

Can I buy the bolts and have them work in the action or is each bolt mated to each action?


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#2 ·
Might be able to pick up a 52b or 52c gun (don't know which and probably from the 40's or 50's if I had to guess).

Problem is it is missing the bolt but I have found a place with 1 of each.

Can I buy the bolts and have them work in the action or is each bolt mated to each action?

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M52 bolts are fitted to the individual rifle and then numbered to that gun. They must be properly headspaced to maintain their accuracy. They may fire OK, but you may lose the accuracy these rifles are noted for. A GOOD gunsmith can properly headspace the bolt. Big Larry
 
#4 ·
What Big Larry says is true.....it's not wise to use a mismatched bolt with the assumption that it will work just fine.

However, it may "work". It is not uncommon to find CMP guns with mismatched bolts. I'm not an expert on these guns, but from what I think I recall reading about it, when the guns were cleaned, sometimes the correct bolts were not put in the correct guns. I suppose they worked well enough (as in they functioned) sometimes, but I'm also pretty sure that many suffered some accuracy loss due to less than optimal headspace. Headspace does affect accuracy.

To be sure, I would definitely check the headspace on a mismatched gun. If that checks out, then you should be good to go. If not, then as already stated, it may need a smith's attention to get proper heaspace.

In the "for little it may be worth" department. :D

James
 
#5 ·
When Springfield Armory reworked their 22's or just upgraded them, they were again headspaced and renumbered. The old number was polished off. Most high quality rifle bolts are numbered to the rifle. Both centerfire and rimfire. Winchester started this policy back in the 20's. The older M52's did not have numbered bolts. Big Larry
 
#9 ·
I can't add much to this conversation other than to say that within the same model (C, D, E, etc.), Winchester had bolts categorized, or sorted, into three headspace dimensions. I don't know the actual terms Winchester used, but for our purposes, we could call them short, regular, and long. The bolts were then tried in the barreled receivers coming off the line, and if headspace was too tight, the next smaller bolt would be used; if headspace was too loose, the next size longer bolt would be used, and then the bolts would be numbered to the gun. So, there is usually a very good chance a bolt purchased separately would work and be right. In any case, it wouldn't be too far off, with the worst case being having a "short" receiver and the separately purchased bolt is "long", or vice versa. Statistically, you would more likely be only one step away from the proper headspace.

On which to purchase, I would also chose the "C" over the "B," because of the better MicroMotion trigger and the extra hardening on the "C" receiver.

TBR
 
#14 ·
There were actually 4 different bolt handle sizes used on the C,D,& E's. They were categorized by lengths from back of locking lug to front thrust surface of handle. They were .735", .737", .739" and .741". Tolerance on all was +0"/-.002", thus covering a range of .009". Nominal headspace was set at .043" for these models, and .045" +/- .001" on the B's.
Personally, I would rather have a replacement bolt with a bit more headspace, than overly tight, which puts undue stress on camming surfaces of bolt and body. If they are too tight, you can set them up on surface grinder and reduce thickness to adjust. If too loose, you need to make a shim to slip between bolt handle and body. I never cared for this method of adjustment, always seemed like a "band aid" approach.
The "B" bolt handles were only made in 1 size (long) and then ground to qualify.
Steve
 
#21 ·
Just a word of caution with the gages. I prefer to check headspace with no firing pin spring in the bolts of the rifles I build. The spring will mask the amount of pressure required to close the bolt and not only open the possibility of a false reading, but also making a rim impression in chamber face. You are dealing with a lot of camming force working on a very small rim, surface area-wise with hardened steel gages. I even do it this way on my center fires.
Steve
 
#28 ·
#29 ·
Certainly would not hurt to remove extractors or just place gage under the extractor claws. The only reason I mentioned removing the extractor spring is to make it easier to feel more precisely what you are doing. Big heavy firing pin springs make it very tough to determine if you are overcoming the spring or actually feeling the gage dead head against chamber face. It is much easier to feel a shoulder bottom out on the large shoulder of a centerfire than the diminutive edge of that little 22 rim. This is especially true if this is your first go at it.
As far as gages, I have a set that I made myself years ago that step in thousandth's of an inch. I think you will find that most gunsmiths that specialize in rimfire match chambers use the same technique. I find that the go/no-go gages sold for SAMI spec work cover a a large range in 2 basic gages which I do not care for. I am sure PTG, or any other reamer manufacturer can make any gage you desire to any thickness you want.
Might be a good subject to discuss with PTG if you are so inclined. Seem's to me a pretty large expense to go to for fitting one bolt only.
Steve
 
#30 ·
Steve -

1. Who are some of the rimfire gunsmiths you would recommend?

I know Randy at CPC but I am not familiar with others.

I do have Vudoo arms that is somewhat local to me (about 5 hrs away). I might talk to a bunch of the guys at the next NRL22 match and see if they know one.

2. Are there some major do's and don'ts with Winchester 52c's (e.g. don't dry fire, don't use HV ammo, need to clean often, etc..)?

3. Will I need a bolt disassembly tool to pull the spring out or can I do it with normal shop tools?
 
#31 ·
Frank...your questions:
1. Who are some of the rimfire gunsmiths you would recommend?
"Really don't have any recommendations. Take a look at the results and equipment lists of the ARA major tournament winners, they are the best in the business in my opinion"

I know Randy at CPC but I am not familiar with others.

I do have Vudoo arms that is somewhat local to me (about 5 hrs away). I might talk to a bunch of the guys at the next NRL22 match and see if they know one.

2. Are there some major do's and don'ts with Winchester 52c's (e.g. don't dry fire, don't use HV ammo, need to clean often, etc..)?
"No major concerns using any ammo in a 52, but why would you? Stick with the most accurate, which is typically upper grade match or target ammunition."

3. Will I need a bolt disassembly tool to pull the spring out or can I do it with normal shop tools?
"Using a tool sure make's it easier, If not mistaken there is a sticky which describes the bolt disassembly. Again, I made my own, so cannot really comment on what is available"
Steve
 
#34 ·
I insert the bolt in the action until it contacts the sear. While lightly pushing on the rear of the bolt with the thumb on my left hand I pull the trigger back my (LH) index finger. I use a small screwdriver in my RH to reach in the action and press the sear down, if the bolt is aligned right it will slide in.
 
#36 ·
#37 ·
It has to be aligned like it would be if you were opening the action to extract a empty round. I hope this makes a little sense.

Without trying to insert the bolt pull on the trigger and reach in the action with a small screwdriver and see if you can push the sear down.
 
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