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  #1  
Old 02-02-2020, 03:36 PM
drewerts
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Removing scratches on stainless steel



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I have a Mark II stainless target. It has some scratches on the backstrap from the previous owner's carelessness with disassembly. How can I remove or polish out the scratches? They are not deep scratches.
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Old 02-02-2020, 03:45 PM
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I go to an automotive parts store and buy a gray scotch-brite pad. Then I just start rubbing the pad on the scratched area in straight lines in one direction. You can use pressure to get the scratches out, and then lighten the pressure so that you just put a nice brushed finish on it similar to the stock finish. After you reach a finish that is close to what you are happy with, take a soft cloth, like an old sweat shirt, and rub the finished area with decent pressure. The finished result should be close to the original finish. Once you do it, it's easier than it sounds.

Last edited by wproct; 02-02-2020 at 09:47 PM.
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Old 02-02-2020, 04:43 PM
drewerts
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Thanks guys. I have a tin of Rennaisance Wax in my woodworking supplies so I will try that first.
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Old 02-02-2020, 05:19 PM
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I wonder if toothpaste (like non-gel Crest) would work?
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Old 02-02-2020, 05:36 PM
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I use a Lion brand #502 ,sand/rubber typewriter eraser from Japan . Available on Amazon . Just go light with it to keep a near new appearing finish . Also good for cylinder Etc on revolvers . WJR
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Old 02-02-2020, 06:37 PM
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Scotchbrite pads work for removing scratches from stainless. Red > green > blue in order of abrasive to polish


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Old 02-02-2020, 07:04 PM
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Erasers imbedded with diamond dust. They are made to polish metal, specifically electrical contacts. They come in various shapes and sizes as well as coarseness.
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Old 02-02-2020, 07:23 PM
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When I worked behind the counter in a shop we used Lead-Wipe to buff out light scratches on stainless steel.
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Old 02-02-2020, 07:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Petey View Post
I wonder if toothpaste (like non-gel Crest) would work?
I have used none gel toothpaste to remove light scratches from a Martin guitar. It is an abrasive, I used a dampened piece of old T shirt along with the toothpaste.

Have a blessed day,

Leon
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Old 02-02-2020, 08:44 PM
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Removing real scratches , like from a tool slipping when removing the latch takes some time. Pop the latch out and do it separate from the frame. You can start with a dremel and fine sanding wheels , they have some that are a rubber material with an abrasive. Some 240,320 and 600 grit sandpaper and then the scotchbrite pad to match the finish. The previous posts will work on very light scratches that you cannot feel with your fingernail.
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Old 02-02-2020, 08:54 PM
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I have similar marks, gouges really, on a MII stainless lower. I'm planning on doing the heavy lifting with wet or dry sand paper, wetted and a fraction of a drop of soap, wrapped around an eraser, to make a mini sanding block to eliminate the high spots. Then asses, and go from there.
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Old 02-03-2020, 07:47 AM
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I wouldn't use a dremel tool, you might have more scratches. :-)

Have a blessed day,

Leon
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Old 02-03-2020, 08:21 AM
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I dont know about stainless steel but they used to use toilet paper to polish nickle plated guns.
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Old 02-04-2020, 01:57 PM
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Thanks for all the tips!
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Old 02-04-2020, 03:51 PM
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I used the grey scotch brite pad on my “brushed” look 1911. Just remember to go slow and following the grain of the finish.
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