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Old 03-29-2020, 08:36 PM
JimSC
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My first Ruger 10/22 target



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I have pretty much decided on building or buying a target grade 10/22 for shooting at 50 to 200 yards. I have appx a 1.5K budget, but that is the top end, I would like to come in several hundred dollars cheaper. Already decided on a Boyds pro varmint stock but cannot decide between a aftermarket receiver or starting with bottom end Ruger and stripping it.

I have heard a lot about barrel droop? I shoot long range centerfire so I understand what not having the scope on a parallel plane would do as the range increased. How prone are stock receivers to this? Is it that much of a issue iff you know your scope dope for 50/100/200 ?

I have seen great reviews on $150 dollar to $500 dollar barrels so there looks to be tons of good options out there. Currently looking hard at Fedderson and Kidd. Looks like a lot of good options on trigger assemblies starting around $75 and goes on up from there.

Another option would be to buy a Kidd barreled receiver and pop in a Boyds stock but I do love to tinker and play garage gunsmith. Any suggestions and opinions welcome.
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Old 03-29-2020, 10:28 PM
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you would be much better off with an aftermarket receiver over the Factory Ruger receiver if you plan on shooting extended ranges

I'm generally not one of the KIDD fanboys but personally I would just get the KIDD with a 20" barrel and a 20MOA rail...then you'll have a good base to start with if the goal is to get good groups at 200yds
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Old 03-29-2020, 10:41 PM
RCGuy50

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You can save money with the Ruger receiver. Install your bull barrel to make sure it shoots to your standards. Then send the assembly to Randy at CPC for receiver truing and thread the barrel into the receiver. Then you’ll have all the solid mounting options of the threaded receiver.
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Old 03-29-2020, 11:03 PM
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Ok , ill spend your money.
TI receiver $160 https://sapoutfitters.com/product/ta...-clear-finish/
Kidd barrel $200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/KIDD-20-Bea...oAAOSwOVpXWDvk
Kidd bolt $105 https://www.ebay.com/itm/KIDD-Bolt-U...gAAOSwYmZXFTP-
Kidd charging handle $36 https://www.ebay.com/itm/KIDD-Bolt-H...AAAOSw2zlXhQi4
Kidd trigger $245 https://www.ebay.com/itm/KIDD-Single...wAAOSwvg9XVsR~
Magpull stock$100 https://www.ebay.com/itm/MAGPUL-Hunt...0AAOSwJIteeIHL
Mueller 40 x scope $220 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mueller-Tar...gAAOSwS3Ncbw7n
Rings $13 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Pins , screw and v block and buffer $22

Total, $1100
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Old 03-30-2020, 07:34 AM
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I have both barrels and would pick the Fedderson. I have nothing bad to say about either but my smallest groups come from one of Fred’s barrels it’s was on the 100 yard game top 10 for a long time and it’s less $$$$
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Old 03-30-2020, 08:19 AM
JimSC
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Thanks for the replies all. Read up on the barrel droop a bit, both here and on some other sites and have decided to ignore it for this build. As long as the droop is consistent I can live with it, if it is too bad I can drop a 20 MOA rail on it. The farthest out I plan on shooting the rifle will be 200 yards, it will mainly be used as a practice/fun rifle and maybe some 200 yard competition if the rimfire F class catches on.

My shopping list is a Boyd's Pro varmint $167, Kidd 2 stage trigger @ 1.5 lb pull weight $289, complete receiver from S&P for $164, and a Federson 18" fluted and tapered for $195. I have a 6x20x40 Clearidge scope on the shelf which still has very clear glass and crisp adjustments that will work great for this build and was paid for years ago. I think I can put together a accurate shooting rifle for a little over $800 plus which is a bargain in my opinion. If anyone can think of anything else for the shopping list I will add it. Glass bedding and pillaring will be done if it is needed

Last edited by JimSC; 03-30-2020 at 08:23 AM.
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Old 03-30-2020, 08:57 AM
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with the stock Ruger receiver, barrel droop is not the only issue you may be dealing with...they're also know for barrel cant
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Old 03-30-2020, 09:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCGuy50 View Post
You can save money with the Ruger receiver. Install your bull barrel to make sure it shoots to your standards. Then send the assembly to Randy at CPC for receiver truing and thread the barrel into the receiver. Then you’ll have all the solid mounting options of the threaded receiver.
while I would have Randy true the face of a factory receiver (if I were ever forced to use one again), the only thing that threading the barrel into the receiver has proven is that it makes it harder to swap barrels later down the road...even KIDD has gone to a proprietary slip fit system in their Supergrade series of rifles
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Old 03-30-2020, 09:43 AM
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While ive had no problems with my Ruger Receivers, a complete receiver from S&P is a waste of money, for the $100 over a stripped receiver all you get is an unpinned bolt, a metal buffer, and a lousy trigger. , use that $ for the kidd bolt .

Where did you find a kidd two stage that cheap? And dont they come with the kidd screw in pins?

As for barrel droop https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...oItHbO16Ssq-PL

Last edited by Toomany22s; 03-30-2020 at 09:46 AM.
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Old 03-30-2020, 09:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crackedcornish View Post
while I would have Randy true the face of a factory receiver (if I were ever forced to use one again), the only thing that threading the barrel into the receiver has proven is that it makes it harder to swap barrels later down the road...even KIDD has gone to a proprietary slip fit system in their Supergrade series of rifles
You’re comparing apples to oranges now. A barrel tenon 2.5x the length with a second clamp to keep the barrel aligned, designed with the intent to offer quick barrel changes.
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Old 03-30-2020, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by RCGuy50 View Post
You’re comparing apples to oranges now. A barrel tenon 2.5x the length with a second clamp to keep the barrel aligned, designed with the intent to offer quick barrel changes.
even though it's a proprietary system, as I said, it's still a slip in tenon, that allows you to remove barrels from the receiver in a few seconds by simply loosening a screw..which you cannot do with a barrel that's threaded into the receiver

while Ruger receivers are fine for budget builds, and I have several factory rifles that still use them, when compared to what's available in the aftermarket, no matter how you slice it, the Ruger receiver is still the low man on that totem pole
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Old 03-30-2020, 02:13 PM
JimSC
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So I guess my question is does the barrel droop/cant change from round to round or group to group. All of my long range centerfire rifles have a 10 or 20 MOA rail so the scope/bore is not parallel. A droop in the barrel is the same thing just in reverse near as I figure. As long as the cant is consistent it would be just like having a consistent wind. I had a 5 - 7 mph switching wind this morning and was shading my POA 1/4 to 1/2 inch depending on what my flags were doing.

I admit rimfire is not my area of experience but it just seems to me a smooth crisp trigger/match grade barrel and chamber/stiff and stable stock is mainly where the the accuracy will come from. Other than the main component which is the person shooting the rifle

Quote:
Originally Posted by Toomany22s View Post
Where did you find a kidd two stage that cheap? And dont they come with the kidd screw in pins?
https://www.kiddinnovativedesign.com...e-22_p_11.html

$289.95 for the red curved blade and extended (medium) mag release. Web page says will drop into nearly all 10/22's. I will talk to them when ordering just to make sure

Last edited by JimSC; 03-30-2020 at 02:26 PM.
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Old 03-30-2020, 06:50 PM
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No droop just means that the barrel is canted downwards. It doesnt move up and down like a tetertoter . The effect is the opposite of a pitched moa rail.
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Old 03-30-2020, 07:05 PM
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Just to add my experiences with receivers. I had one Ruger reciever I got where the barrel was canted badly to the right to the point it I could not get it zeroed as I would run out of windage on the scope and it pressed hard on the end of the barrel channel. That one is now sitting in my safe waiting for a trip to CPC. That was 3 in a row I had out of spec. One canted down where even with a gunsmither block I could not get it sighted in without a 20 moa rail and even that was pushing it at 50 yards. The last one the barrel hole was oversized and the barrel would drop in and come out with no effort. I did have one ruger reciever with no issues but with a success rate of 1 in 4 I will only use aftermarket now. I have used 5 brownells receivers and one tactical innovations with great results for not much more money.

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Old 03-30-2020, 07:51 PM
JimSC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew22 View Post
Just to add my experiences with receivers. I had one Ruger reciever I got where the barrel was canted badly to the right to the point it I could not get it zeroed as I would run out of windage on the scope and it pressed hard on the end of the barrel channel.

That would be some serious offset. Pretty sure Ruger would replace something off that much. If not I would just slap a factory barrel and stock on it with open sights and give it to my son in law as a squirrel gun/plinker. Pretty sure for every one that bad there are 1000 decent ones

Last edited by JimSC; 03-30-2020 at 07:53 PM.
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