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  #466  
Old 12-10-2013, 09:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J31968 View Post

Next I used a round rotary bit to cut an elephants foot or ring around the inside of the 7/16 hole. Plastic is slick and contains oils that make it hard for glues to adhere to. Doing this creates a locking ring of epoxy or devcon that should prevent it from ever coming loose.If you look close you can see the ring inside the main hole.
I do locking rings in my pillar holes as well, using the rotary saw bit that's third from the left in this pic:



Because of the sketchy adherence of polymer stocks, I would recommend you consider drilling anchor holes in bedding areas.

DrGunner
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  #467  
Old 12-13-2013, 08:03 PM
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"back in black"

So basically I have a "Tennessee ridge runner". I had a bunch of leftover parts laying around and just could'nt handle it. Feddersen 16.25" 22lr barrel. worked over ruger receiver, bolt head spaced and radius, 1.5 lb trigger job, auto bolt release mod, PC charging handle and guide rod. To top it off a Weaver Kaspa tactical 2.5-10x44 MD. Got a quick chance to zero it in after work today and snap a pic. Looks like she loving my old pmc SW stock and the usual cci sv and wolf mt.
[IMG][/IMG]
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  #468  
Old 12-13-2013, 08:21 PM
Nic421
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J31968,

That is almost EXACTLY the rifle I am about to build. Mine will have the factory black receiver, a black nylon Hogue stock, and a fluted 16.25 Feddersen barrel. The barrel will be threaded though.

You have just confirmed how nice that will look.
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  #469  
Old 12-17-2013, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrGunner View Post

Because of the sketchy adherence of polymer stocks, I would recommend you consider drilling anchor holes in bedding areas.

DrGunner

Good idea. I haven't done any bedding to a Hogue, but even when doing a similar type of pillar in a wood stock or bonding certain plastic items with epoxies, I use a small burr, like the one pictured below, to drill holes in the areas I want the epoxy to hold. By boring straight in with the round burr to a depth greater than its diameter and then sort of wiggling it around, you can create a hole that is larger at the bottom than at the top entrance. This slightly conical shaped hole allows the epoxy to create a mechanical "lock" in materials that it may not have sufficient bonding qualities to hold on to very well otherwise. A few holes of this type can make for pretty strong bonds in most any material. Of course this technique does require enough thickness to work with, and the area below the pillar works fine for this.





One question about installing a pillar in a Hogue though...

I've always thought the greatest benefit to installing a pillar in a wood stock (and I've done a couple so far) was to create consistent takedown bolt tension. Wood expands and contracts with temp and humidity changes and can create variances in tension, changing POI as a result. But, with the Hogue's synthetic material, I would have thought it was stable enough as is. I was always under the impression that the main disadvantage of the Hogue stocks for ultimate accuracy was in their lack of forearm stiffness which caused varying pressures to be applied to the barrels. Is there something else to the pillar that I'm not considering?

And on the point of the flexible forearm... I've never worked with one, but how difficult is it to work with the material inside the forearm area? Is it possible to do the pillar for the action, bed the first 3 or 4 inches of the barrel, and then remove enough material from inside the forearm to eliminate forearm flex from being transmitted to pressure on the barrel? Seems I remember reading once somewhere, where someone epoxied some aluminum angle, tubing, or some such, into the forearm area to remove the flexibility. Can't remember details about it now though.

I've been considering a Hogue build for a while and trying to get all this worked out in my head before I dive in, so thanks to all those that have contributed to the knowledge base.
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  #470  
Old 12-17-2013, 01:23 PM
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Sweetness!



Quote:
Originally Posted by J31968 View Post
So basically I have a "Tennessee ridge runner". I had a bunch of leftover parts laying around and just could'nt handle it. Feddersen 16.25" 22lr barrel. worked over ruger receiver, bolt head spaced and radius, 1.5 lb trigger job, auto bolt release mod, PC charging handle and guide rod. To top it off a Weaver Kaspa tactical 2.5-10x44 MD. Got a quick chance to zero it in after work today and snap a pic. Looks like she loving my old pmc SW stock and the usual cci sv and wolf mt.
[IMG][/IMG]
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  #471  
Old 12-17-2013, 01:39 PM
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Imaposer- yep, I drill conical holes to anchor bedding. I inject Devcon, filling the holes from the bottom up using this rig:






You can find details on my bedding process in this sticky:

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...d.php?t=526029

I have pillar bedded a synthetic Archangel Deluxe Target stock, and the fit/torque of the action screw is more solid/repeatable with a brass pillar vs synthetic alone.

And regarding the Hogue- I haven't/wouldn't use one so perhaps others with the requisite knowledge and experience can answer your questions.

Regards,

DrGunner
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  #472  
Old 12-17-2013, 02:47 PM
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I’ve read where guys dealing with a synthetic, thinking Hogue, stocked Remington 700 SPS notched out the ribs for carbon fiber arrow shafts. The shafts were to add stiffness and take up space reducing the volume of epoxy necessary to completely fill the remaining voids in the barrel channel.

I have Hogue 10/22 stocks over-molded in nylon and I’m not seeing any more flex than with a typical wooden sporter stock. It’s gonna take serious side loading from a tight sling hold to affect barrel contact with either, and I don’t use a sling when shooting with forend rested.
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  #473  
Old 12-17-2013, 03:35 PM
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In response to Imaposer. The synthetic in the hogue stocks is kinda mushy feeling so as Dr G has said it provides a solid lock up of the mounting screw. There is really no need to do anything else to the forearm other than possibly relieve the rubber around the barrel with a sanding drum in a dremel. I also have a Remington 700 SPS tactical that came in a hogue stock. after removing almost an 1/8" of rubber at the very front of the stock the barrel was completely free floated. I also installed bedding pillars in that stock and the gun shoots sub 1/2" groups at 200 yds. I have also read about people putting arrow shafts and aluminum tubing in the skeleton work of the stock. It is really not necessary. I believe if I were to attempt reinforcing the forearm I would install a carbon arrow shaft, tape the stock up and carefully fill the skeleton work with great stuff foam, allow it to cure, trim it up and apply a skim bedding with 3-4 layers of tape on the barrel. That should be pretty solid as the older BC stocks were foam layered in fiberglass and they may still be made that way. This way you don't add so much weight to the forearm.
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  #474  
Old 12-19-2013, 11:54 AM
Das Jared
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  #475  
Old 12-19-2013, 01:53 PM
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Very nice looking!!! Love that KIDD barrel...


Sub MOA or bust!!!
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  #476  
Old 12-19-2013, 03:44 PM
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Oh so close....

Got a chance to fire a few rounds this afternoon. These were shot with the Hogue/Feddersen pictured above. Shot from hood of truck with bipod and bag. Almost made it on the scoreboard of the 25 and 50 yard game. Can't wait for a good day to get this and "Ghilly" on the bench.

[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
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  #477  
Old 12-19-2013, 04:22 PM
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J31968,
I shot my Hogue stocked "truck gun" yesterday and have a few questions for you.
Do the Hogue stocks have a large amount of size change with temp changes? I have shot this rifle b4 in cold weather and had no issues sighting in. On prior cold day sessions the gun rode in the bed of the truck to range so it was close to outside temp. Yesterday it rode in the cab and was much warmer than outside (it was about 35 outside). The gun shot wild for about a dozen rounds. Scope adjustments were totally unpredictable. After awhile the gun settled in and I had no more problems. Did the rapid cooling off have anything to due with 14-16" vertical spread on sight in? I assume the gun you posted targets with is pillared and floated?
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  #478  
Old 12-19-2013, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by doclu60 View Post
J31968,
I shot my Hogue stocked "truck gun" yesterday and have a few questions for you.
Do the Hogue stocks have a large amount of size change with temp changes? I have shot this rifle b4 in cold weather and had no issues sighting in. On prior cold day sessions the gun rode in the bed of the truck to range so it was close to outside temp. Yesterday it rode in the cab and was much warmer than outside (it was about 35 outside). The gun shot wild for about a dozen rounds. Scope adjustments were totally unpredictable. After awhile the gun settled in and I had no more problems. Did the rapid cooling off have anything to due with 14-16" vertical spread on sight in? I assume the gun you posted targets with is pillared and floated?
I have never experienced shifting that bad. However the synthetic material in the Hogue stocks is pretty soft and should be subject to temperature changes IE. the plastic will get harder at colder temps and shrink. If the gun was shooting on a warm day you can bet the action screw will be loose on a cold day and change everything. I put the pillar in mine and also cut the first rib down until the barrel was completely free floated . When shooting from any type of rest i pay careful attention to not put alot of downward pressure on the stock thus pushing the barrel into stock and changing everything. This is also not a problem just related to Hogue. Wood stocks not only go thru shrinkage and swelling due to temp but also have to deal with humidity. The next time you shoot ,try to put it thru the same scenario as today. If it is going wild adjust the tension on the action screw and see what it does. That will tell us whether you have a stock or scope issue.
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  #479  
Old 12-19-2013, 05:25 PM
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J31968,
I had just put the gun back together after a trigger change. The td screw was @ 25in/lbs. No downward pressure was used on the stock and rings were @ 25in/lbs as specified by the mfg (warne). I'm sure it will be cold next time I shoot it, but that will be after the pillar and free float. I have a MRI carbon barrel on this gun and when I had it apart you could see a definite mark on the barrel from the v-rib in the barrel channel. I'm starting to get more brave these days and bought some brass fittings such as Dr.G uses. After seeing your post on hogue pillar I feel this would be a good place for me to get my feet wet b4 I tackle my Vantage or my T-Rex. A botched hogue stock or glued to the TI rec'v would be much easier to take than the aforementioned stocks and my Kidd or Vq ss rec'vs!! Glad you came to RFC......Thanks
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  #480  
Old 12-20-2013, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by doclu60 View Post
J31968,
I had just put the gun back together after a trigger change. The td screw was @ 25in/lbs. No downward pressure was used on the stock and rings were @ 25in/lbs as specified by the mfg (warne). I'm sure it will be cold next time I shoot it, but that will be after the pillar and free float. I have a MRI carbon barrel on this gun and when I had it apart you could see a definite mark on the barrel from the v-rib in the barrel channel. I'm starting to get more brave these days and bought some brass fittings such as Dr.G uses. After seeing your post on hogue pillar I feel this would be a good place for me to get my feet wet b4 I tackle my Vantage or my T-Rex. A botched hogue stock or glued to the TI rec'v would be much easier to take than the aforementioned stocks and my Kidd or Vq ss rec'vs!! Glad you came to RFC......Thanks
Thanks Doclu, I have really enjoy the plethora of information here on RFC and the chance to share info with others. Sounds like that first rib is definitely putting to much pressure on the barrel. If you need any assistance feel free to drop me a PM
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