Ring height isn't always about getting as close to the bore as possible; the scope must be positioned on the rifle to allow the shooter a natural, easy, and repeatable cheek weld. In other words, you shouldn't have to plant your face into the stock so your eye is directly behind the bolt nor should you have to stretch your neck out like an ostrich to view through your scope.
The comb height dimension of the stock you're using and the diameter of the intended scope's objective lens (often called the "bell" of the scope) are where you start. Using the simple penny trick you start stacking pennies on your scope rail(s) to simulate scope rings, carefully laying the scope atop them as you increase/decrease the number of pennies (I use blue painters tape to temporarily secure the scope to the rifle so it doesn't fall during the process) until scope clearance and a natural sighting position is obtained. Then it's simply a matter of measuring the thickness of the pennies, as this dimension is what you'll use to determine the height of the rings you require.
Below is the chart I used to determine the height scope rings that I needed from Warne rings. As you can see they offer dimensions from both "top of rail to center of scope ("D")" and "top of rail to bottom of scope tube ("B")"...you simply do the math to determine what ring height will be the least bit greater than you require. They're quality rings that were right on the money:
Between the comb height of the Boyd's stock that came on my CZ 457's Pro Varmint rifle and my particular scope dimensions I ended up with their "Medium" height Mountain Tech model 7214M rings, which allowed 3/32" clearance between the magnification adjustment ring and the scope rail and 1/4" between the scope's objective lens and barrel. The fact that the scope looks neither too low nor too high on the rifle is completely inconsequential; it's the height that I require for a proper cheek weld
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