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New member, new build, Tacsol barrel opinion wanted

1K views 15 replies 5 participants last post by  pfylip 
#1 ·
I was given a Leupold VX-Freedom 2-7x33 rimfire scope for Christmas and all my 22s are either nice levers that I don't want to use with a scope or cheap 22s not worthy of a Leupold. In my mind that was justification to build my first 10/22. Here's what I have coming:

Ruger 50th anniversary receiver
Tacsol X-ring 16.5 fluted threaded barrel, matte black (found an error on an ebay listing and seller made me an offer for $170, so I took it)
Fab Defense M4 pro stock in FDE (only FDE was on sale for $120 on opticsplanet, so I grabbed it).
Volquartsen trigger group (was going with BX trigger until I found a complete Volquartsen for $150 used..really wanted aluminum trigger housing, but didn't want to spend $250+ for a trigger right now, so this was good)
JWH Customs bolt with scalloped engraving (CNC machined, headspaced, radiused, pinned, blah blah blah)
Kidd charging handle, guide rod, spring
Volquartsen picatinny rail

I also ordered stainless oversized trigger assembly pins, viton recoil buffer with stainless pin, and a stainless oversized V-block. No idea if that stuff is any good until I see it, but I don't have a 10/22 to base anything on, so this is a complete ground up build.

Only thing I'm wondering about is that Tacsol barrel. I read a lot of good things about their barrels and when I got the offer for $170 I couldn't pass it up. Now I'm reading they aren't great for accuracy and the breech face is aluminum and the threads are aluminum and weak and I'm thinking about just selling it and getting a Beyer, but that's almost double the cost of the Tacsol. I'm just looking for a fun shooter for steel targets and plinking and maybe some grouse, but after spending a small fortune on a 22 now I would like some accuracy to brag about at least.
 
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#3 · (Edited)
I have several TacSol's and have mounted up several for friends. While the Alum. breech face may be the weak link I have NOT experienced anything more than slight imprinting similar to what you see on a steel OEM... that's with several thousands of rounds. I only use Standard velocity or Subs in all mine and get decent accuracy.. not KID barrel accuracy for sure. If you are not running 10K per year I would not worry about the TacSol. They have a "tweener" chamber which is tighter than the OEM Sporting chamber but not as tight as say the Proprietary KIDD chamber or even the Bentz which is what most aftermarket makers use. Many here on RFC have experienced what may be considered extreme Breech face wear/damage with their TacSols.. but I wonder what ammo they are running and what bolt. ;)
KID/KIDD barrels are what I run now.. NUN BEDA IMO.. and IF you want a better barrel I would sell the TacSol and buy a KIDD Ultra-Lite.

https://www.coolguyguns.com/Ultra-Lightweight-Rifle_c_27.html

16 1/4 inches in length
1 1/4 pounds
.870" diameter
"High cool factor" Fluting
Stainless Steel Breech and Muzzle
Perfect for varmint hunting or fun target
Stainless Steel Muzzle threading option
Bull barrel stock channel

One other thing.. IF you keep the TS barrel it may require some fitting with 200 gr. Garnet paper.. the tenon may need sanding.. round and round with the 200 gr. till it slides in tight with pressure.. usually need to remove some/most of the anodizing/color... check fit before starting obviously.. don't go too far, keep the removal very even and concentric... they need to go in TIGHT! Tighter the better. Thermal method may not be enough for these barrels.
And the KIDD barrel on some/most Rec's is the same BUT I recommend a Heat/Freeze (thermal method), do not sand anything = Freeze the Barrel and heat the Rec. and use some anti-seize. :bthumb:

KIDD barrel install vid :

Final thought.. IF you want extreme accuracy you need real good ammo.. Subs or Std. Velocity.. no high velocity or hypers.
 
#4 ·
One other thing.. IF you keep the TS barrel it may require some fitting with 200 gr. Garnet paper.. the tenon may need sanding.. round and round with the 200 gr. till it slides in tight with pressure.. usually need to remove some/most of the anodizing/color... check fit before starting obviously.. don't go too far, keep the removal very even and concentric... they need to go in TIGHT! Tighter the better. Thermal method may not be enough for these barrels.
And the KIDD barrel on some/most Rec's is the same BUT I recommend a Heat/Freeze (thermal method), do not sand anything = Freeze the Barrel and heat the Rec. and use some anti-seize. :bthumb:
Thanks for all the info. I was wondering about that heat/freeze method. Seems like that would be the best way to get the tightest fit. I haven't made up my mind if I'm keeping the Tacsol yet. I just don't want to install it then find out it's not as accurate as I would like, then I'm stuck with a used barrel. I'm not too worried about the durability, but for another $50 for a threaded Kidd I can get better durability and accuracy.
 
#6 · (Edited)
I just don't want to install it then find out it's not as accurate as I would like, then I'm stuck with a used barrel. I'm not too worried about the durability, but for another $50 for a threaded Kidd I can get better durability and accuracy.

BadaBing BadaBoom... you just answered your own Que. ;)
And if the TS barrel is not satisfactory and you do the Thermal method they are usually a beast to get out of the Receiver... cry once.. BUY A KIDD. I'm on a least 3 dozen and none have ever been worse than sub-MOA and never removed one for replacement.. :)
The TS barrels are ample for plinking and the general masses... better than a OEM.. a tad. But, you will never see one on a Leader Board in a Bench Comp.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Yeah you helped me make up my mind. I ordered the Kidd 556 fluted threaded in black. I really wanted a Beyer but that's another $100+ and Clint Beyer emailed me pictures of their new diamond cut and spiral fluting and I think it looks like crap (link below to pictures in case you're interested). The diamond cut is so aggressive there's more diamond cuts than surface area and the spiral fluting looks like a piece of Christmas candy, not my taste. I didn't like it at all and I don't want a plain barrel or standard flutes. Also He sounded like he was busy at shot show and I want my stuff ASAP, so I got the Kidd. I might keep the Tacsol to use on a 40th anniversary stock I plan on building a little more factory style and cheaper with a bx trigger. I'll have to sand out the barrel channel on the stock to fit in the .920 barrel. Not sure if I would want that floated or bedded. I was thinking if I used the thermal method and later needed to remove it I could just heat up the receiver with a heat gun and maybe get lucky. If not I could put some gel packs around the barrel end and heat up the receiver. I'm sure I'd figure it out. Thanks for the tips.

Beyer new design:
 
#7 ·
Once you do get a barrel, installed in the receiver, you’ll have to check if it’s “square”. Some Ruger receivers end up with the barrel canted to one side. A lot of debate on the cause, but I did end up having to send one OEM receiver to CPC to have it squared up...

Before you do mount that barrel, scotchbrite the inside - search the forum- lots of discussions on that. It will smooth out the over spray inside, and makes for slicker operation. Clean, even polish it, just don’t remove metal. I polished the inside even though the metal still has high spots... makes cleaning it a breeze

Good luck and look forward to seeing and hearing your progress
 
#9 ·
Once you do get a barrel, installed in the receiver, you'll have to check if it's "square". Some Ruger receivers end up with the barrel canted to one side. A lot of debate on the cause, but I did end up having to send one OEM receiver to CPC to have it squared up...

Before you do mount that barrel, scotchbrite the inside - search the forum- lots of discussions on that. It will smooth out the over spray inside, and makes for slicker operation. Clean, even polish it, just don't remove metal. I polished the inside even though the metal still has high spots... makes cleaning it a breeze

Good luck and look forward to seeing and hearing your progress
Never heard of the squaring problem in all the research I've done so far. You mean the front of the receiver needs to be squared up? I was thinking a file would work but I guess that wouldn't square it with the barrel.

How much of the barrel are you saying has overspray? On the ends or the entire length? Seems like that would be easy enough to prevent in production, never heard of that either.
 
#10 ·
Overspray in the receiver - should have been clearer - not the barrel. Search "scotchbrite", or as it's referred to by many "crotchbrite" here on RFC and you will see / understand. it's all about smoothing the inside of the receiver to improve cycling. Many go to the extreme and polish the inside of the receiver.

Once you put your barreled action in the stock you'll know if you have any "sqauare" issues - just look to see if the barrel sits centered in the stock's barrel channel, if so you are good to go.
 
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