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Old 06-10-2021, 06:29 AM
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Stock 10/22 restoration



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Hi guys,

Last week I was donated a 10/22 by some old friends as a thank you for being a key worker in healthcare during lockdown.

This rifle will be my social butterfly rifle.

I do need to go to visit my friends at various clubs across the UK who still shoot Gallery

it would be not only churlish but also highly uncouth to turn up with my CZ 455 whilst expecting the rest of the firing detail to sit around while I reload my two mags at a glacial speed, I can imagine the daggers from they're eyes as they all waited for me!

My plan is to make a sleeper of sorts whilst spending as little money as possible

I was just about to order a Volquarsen hammer, but purely by happenstance and good luck, recalled I seeing in my gun detritus box a spare standard hammer!.

Which was in Mrs Discontinued gun before she swapped out the hammer.
Best of all is if it doesn't work, I could simply return the original parts

With nothing to lose I did quite a good trigger job, I reduced the hammer radius using my own technique of a steel rod and rubber band placed under my stone to create an even tension whilst removing some of the material

I reduced contact with the sear and polished the disconnector surfaces. For the trigger, I used a random spring which I cut down for the trigger return.

I then bent the extractor claw in a vice to the correct angle as the cartridge's where not being held against the breech firmly enough and after a range visit yesterday I can confirm its working like a swiss watch.

350 rounds without single hiccup!

The trigger feels about the same if not better than the drop in hammers. Presently its sitting at 3.2 lbs. which is fine by me, I wouldn't want to risk any more

I didn't want to go too far, I glued in the hammer bushings to ensure a consistent trigger pull.

I'm actually very pleased with myself as money is tight right now and it always feels good to get stuff for free, so far my sped on this 10/22 has been around £8 which was the cost of fuel to drive to collect it,

My grinding stones and emery paper where already in my possession.

There are a couple of tiny places where the paint has worn off and I'm wondering about touching it up does anyone know what paint they use?

I was considering a model kit semi gloss black enamel paint as this area is so small most wouldn't notice it but I would any suggestions?


I've got some receiver blanking/plug screws on the way as I plan to keep it open/iron sights.

The wood looks like it is quite nicely figured although the photos do it no justice



Should I refinish this stock with my best London gun stock oil recipe?

Many thanks fellas

Disco

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  #2  
Old 06-10-2021, 06:39 AM
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Nice job.

From the pictures, I would leave the stock alone. If there are scratches and issues that donít show up in the picture that would change my position.

Good luck and safe shooting
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Old 06-10-2021, 06:47 AM
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Very nice
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Old 06-10-2021, 07:00 AM
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From the picture it looks perfect the way it is Eddie. Don't let perfection get in the way of good enough

Frank
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Old 06-10-2021, 11:41 AM
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If you want a real sleeper I'd leave it as is but if that's a real walnut stock it would be beautiful refinished. I have one from the 1970's that I stripped and put about 15 coats or Tru-oil on and now you can see the grain.


Try it sometime with the barrel band off and see if the accuracy changes. Some get better, some worse, some don't change. If it's better with it off, grind away the inside of the band so it's not touching the barrel before you put it back.
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Old 06-10-2021, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by LtCrunch View Post
From the picture it looks perfect the way it is Eddie. Don't let perfection get in the way of good enough

Frank
Thanks Frank

Good advice

I took it to the range today and although there are a few minor scratches. I think I'll leave it as undercover as possible. they are part of its patina

Oiling it would be nice, but then knowing me, I'd end up "babying" gun also it would draw attention to the rifle.
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Old 06-10-2021, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by CardPuncher View Post
If you want a real sleeper I'd leave it as is but if that's a real walnut stock it would be beautiful refinished. I have one from the 1970's that I stripped and put about 15 coats or Tru-oil on and now you can see the grain.


Try it sometime with the barrel band off and see if the accuracy changes. Some get better, some worse, some don't change. If it's better with it off, grind away the inside of the band so it's not touching the barrel before you put it back.
Thanks I will try this I have heard of some people using tape under the stock beneath the barrel band as well. I will try both or all three!


Many thanks for the tip

Last edited by Discontinued; 06-10-2021 at 12:36 PM.
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Old 06-10-2021, 12:36 PM
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Eddie, give this stuff a try if you haven't already. Excellent product recommended by many here as well as the British Museum

Just takes a tiny amount, a small tin will last a lifetime.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Renaissance.../dp/B0015F2GEM


Frank
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Old 06-10-2021, 01:44 PM
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Help!

I think I did something?

What do they always say only change one thing at a time

I'm starting to get the horrors I might have done something to my new to me piece of classic Americana

I put in an aftermarket part! Well two actually "bad Karma"

A Buffer as I'm thinking the standard buffer pin could damage the receiver and elongate the hole. Am I being silly or, does having a buffer help in anyway other than taming that monstrous recoil?

At the range today I had some issues with stove piping about 1 in 20 rounds which then got worse and worse,

And like a numpty, I carried on. When I should have stopped and took the thing apart,

I had the weirdest failure ever?

It appeared to put the spent round back into the chamber?

Initially I thought It might of been me not noticing a dud round, as I was using a suppressor, but still how on earth can it go bang, the bolt cycle but the empty shell not leave the chamber?

Even stranger I could not remove the empty case when cycling the bolt, it was jammed tight into the breech

Even when applying pressure on the extractor with an Allen key, which I used to do on my Volquarten barrel (Benz chamber) I had to tap out the empty round as the claw wouldn't grasp the case, the chamber seemed very tight and gritty

I cleaned the camber but again I was getting weird stovepipes where the empty was sitting horizontal to the bore holding the bolt open

A friend gave/sold me a Volquartsen extractor claw to try out and it didn't seem to solve the issue either?

I wonder if I just had a bad batch of SK std plus as it seemed very sooty, after around 50 rounds the mags started to get really gritty I had a few failures to feed as the rounds got stuck and the mags wouldn't rotate.

I usually tension my mags a little higher than normal as well. But I noticed that soot was falling out of them when I tapped them to "wake up" the stuck shell. I cleaned them only a couple of days ago before my success with CCI

The action feels very gritty now.

Everyone on the comp circuit over here in Blighty swears by Sk Standard plus and they all say its ultra reliable in a 10/22.

My only other thought is that I put in a cheap buffer from eBay. since my last range visit. I'm thinking is it possibly rebounding the bolt too quickly causing a stove pipe?

is this actually possible?

Unusually it didn't try to load another in the chamber which is again odd as most stovepipes tend to pick up the next round and you end up with the manged mess inside the action.

The problem lies in that my CZ455 hates CCI and the 10/22 seems to be pretty inaccurate with CCI but functions very well.

What a tailspin

I'm wondering if this Ruger mocking me for decrying CCI. As last time on the range I blew off all my last supply's of CCI without a single failure to fire as I said above 350 rounds without a hitch it seemed to burn very clean


Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated


Eddie
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Old 06-10-2021, 02:35 PM
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The buffer might reduce the noise of the action or might not matter at all if the bolt isn't actually hitting it. It will have no effect on how well things work or how long they last.


Sounds like the infamous carbon ring: carbon buildup in the chamber. Takes more than normal cleaning to remove it.
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Old 06-10-2021, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CardPuncher View Post
The buffer might reduce the noise of the action or might not matter at all if the bolt isn't actually hitting it. It will have no effect on how well things work or how long they last.


Sounds like the infamous carbon ring: carbon buildup in the chamber. Takes more than normal cleaning to remove it.
Thanks I will look at scrubbing it out although I did soak it in kroil but maybe a brass brush might do the trick as well.
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Old 06-11-2021, 01:08 AM
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a few more details, please

Quote:
Originally Posted by Discontinued View Post
With nothing to lose I did quite a good trigger job, I reduced the hammer radius using my own technique of a steel rod and rubber band placed under my stone to create an even tension whilst removing some of the material
is a bit more description available?
perhaps even a picture or two?
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Old 06-11-2021, 03:43 AM
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Originally Posted by dufferDave View Post
is a bit more description available?
perhaps even a picture or two?
Sure no problem,


I sometimes surprise myself check out my gorgeous diagram on how to "Bubba" or maybe the English equivalent would be to "Dave" your trigger

I actually went to art school, my lecturer is now spinning in his grave.



Still Microsoft paint didn't exist back then so you'll have to make do with my Da Vinci like artwork!


So I will try to explain, if you look above you can see my diagram of how I did my magic.

Simply put a rod, or dowel though the bushing hole on the hammer, the the tighter to the fit the better. you can use an Allen key as well.

Wrap a rubber band a couple of times and secure it underneath your sanding block or stone and gently rock it backwards, as if cocking the hammer d

Important when going forwards lift the hammer off the sanding block/stone and move it rearwards do this 10 to 20 times and test your trigger pull it will reduce.

Do not put pressure on it when moving the hammer forward as this could round off the engagement surface.

I did not go too far as I didn't want to risk a hair trigger.

I used 1200 grit emery cloth on a piece of MDF wood for the final polishing.

After doing this glue, yes glue your hammer bushings onto the hammer as there is a small amount of play that results in inconsistent trigger pull, with a lighter, trigger, not doing this can cause failures to cock or even going full auto.

Which is why many home done trigger jobs go wrong, they don't glue the Bushings in!


Hope this helps!

Last edited by Discontinued; 06-11-2021 at 04:44 AM.
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  #14  
Old 06-11-2021, 06:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LtCrunch View Post
Eddie, give this stuff a try if you haven't already. Excellent product recommended by many here as well as the British Museum

Just takes a tiny amount, a small tin will last a lifetime.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Renaissance.../dp/B0015F2GEM


Frank
Thanks Frank, I will look at purchasing some of this stuff, great help my freind!
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