Rimfire Central Firearm Forum banner
Status
Not open for further replies.

Suhl Trigger, Bolt and Firing Pin Pics

16K views 14 replies 10 participants last post by  SJRC-Dad 
#1 ·
#5 ·
Dave, that is a Suhl trigger. I just took mine out of the stock to make sure. It has had the large screw in front of the trigger blade removed, as suggested by Gary Mitchell in this exchange between the two of us:

Gary,
Is the screw you recommend removing completely the large one in front of the trigger that has a screw inside a screw? If so, do I remove both of them? Also, which screw reduces trigger weight? This trigger seems to be an ounce or two heavier than my other Suhls, which wasn't a problem when it was in the 18lb stock I bought it in. I just found a McMillan for it, and would like to lighten the trigger to it's lowest setting. I tried backing out the screw behind the trigger, but it didn't seem to make a difference. Is there a combination of screws I need to adjust?


Here is his reply to me:
Remove the whole thing in front of the trigger. Inner and outer.
I do not recommend adjusting a Suhl trigger to it;s lowest setting. Due to wear and other things you WILL get caught in a failure to cock. I do not like for it to fire with a feather touch. In the Suhl trigger there are 3 springs after you remove the first stage adjustment. One is under the sear. Do not file, hone or attempt to cut any facing/mating surfaces in a Suhl trigger. There are no parts anywhere to be had. There is no adjustment on the sear spring. The other spring is on the front of the trigger that rides on the little cocking piece and the trigger housing it's self. If that spring is too heavy you will have too heavy of a trigger pull. The other spring is in the weight of pull adjustment. It is just rear of the trigger shoe. It should have light compression on it. It shouldn't be free floating. The screw behind that screw is sear engagement. Till you get weight of pull like you want it, back that screw out about 1 turn.
Never ,never dry fire this rifle. Use a fired case in the chamber and rotate or replace ir every other time you dry fire it.
OK when you get everything adjusted, see how much creep you have in the trigger. turn in the rear/sear engagement screw in until the creep is taken out. Go no further with it. That is how I adjust my triggers. Do not use any lube in the trigger. In case it is slugish you may need to soak it in solvent for a while. If you blow it dry remove the little front spring I told you about. You WILL lose it without a doubt. If you loose it, look for some very lite spring stock to build another one. I'm talking watch maker type stuff. All it does is push the cocking piece into place.
Good shooting,
Gary


I also found this, I think from Bob Holbruner, but I'm not sure:
I clean my Suhl bolt from time to time. It's pretty easy. Just watch position of components as you take it apart.
First de-cock it. Then the textured cap on the end turns off about 1/2 turn. Remove it and the sleeve just below it. Now the firing pin comes out. Notice how it is installed in the bolt sleeve. The cocking piece and the guide at the top should line up so that they slide freely up and down inside bole sleeve.
Now the cocking handle can be removed. Watch for small spring loaded plunger mounted forward on this piece.
This next step has the potential to loose parts. Don't undertake it unless you really need to. On the front of the bolt you have the extractors. They are not the same. Notice which side you remove the part from. Using a small screwdriver slip it between the plunger and the extractor. Push back on the plunger and work the extractor out toward you. No force should be needed to get extractor out. Tne plunger has a notch in it that the extractor rides in. The notch is away from you on reassembly. Other wise you will lose the extractor.There is a small spring under the plunger remove plunger and spring. This is the complete bolt disassemblied.
I use gunscrubber on all parts. Use an old tooth brush to remove heavy crud. Don't let cleaner splash back on you when cleaning inside bolt body. Wear safety glasses. Clean and dry all parts. assemble in reverse order. Apply light oil to all parts and light grease to locking lugs.
Trigger can be removed to spray with Scrubber. Do not over torque mount screws. They are small and easy to shear off.
DO NOT TAKE TRIGGER AND FIRING PIN APART.
Do not add any lube to trigger. Trigger should be left dry.


Hope this stuff helps!
Todd
 
#8 ·
hello all , i´m new arround here so go easy on me , i´m not used to this post thing . anyway i have this doubt that doesn´t let me sleep at night , could anyone send me (jack.moller@hotmail.com) or post here a parts diagram of the trigger mechanism of the suhl 150 . i saw the trigger closeups but coul´t figure it for sure . by the way i heard that the gun used by the biathlon athlete sven fisher
is a suhl , any comment on that?
 
#9 ·
Suhl 150-1 Standard Trigger

I need to get a replacement trigger for my Suhl. Half of the casting that holds it to the trigger rail failed. I have been searching the web and calling all the various parts people that I could get a hold of, but to little avail. It broke opposite the screw head along the rail. It appears that it was over tightened.
Any help will be most appreciated.
Thanks,
Stuart
 
#10 ·
Stuart,
I bought a Suhl trigger from a guy on RFC in July of last year. I'll send you his email address by PM. I don't know if he has any left, but they were well cleaned and adjusted.

Let me know how it works out.

Best,
Michael
 
#15 ·
Used 9mm AR15 firing pin spring

Old thread new user. I used a 9mm AR15 firing pin spring for the booster spring, as a booster spring on my daughters SUHL 150 standard. Maybe not what others have used, but what I had on hand that looked close & fit where pictured. Ho:tpe this helps.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
You have insufficient privileges to reply here.
Top