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  #16  
Old 12-24-2017, 10:44 AM
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To answer the OP's original question, yes there is a way to do it precisely. It takes one of these: https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/08790594 plus one of these: https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/78905445




Can probably turn them by hand if you have a loose drill chuck to grab it with.

Alternatively if you have lathe access can turn a piece of aluminum or brass to those two dimensions with a generous undercut at the face to pilot intersection. Use a little lapping compound on the face only (the reason for the undercut is to keep the compound out of the barrel's mounting hole) and grind/lap the face true to the bore as well as removing any finish in just that region.

Last edited by ntsqd; 12-24-2017 at 10:50 AM. Reason: wrong pilot OD
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  #17  
Old 12-24-2017, 11:18 AM
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To remove finish use a Dremel with a cotton buffer and fine rouge [wax embedded with grit] Metal will be a high polish shine. Then use liquid or paste blueing, heat metal up until a drop of water 'spits' then rub blueing on to hot surface. Follow direction on bottle. Do not overheat metal. I also use a Dremel and rouge on all trigger assemblies when I get a new gun. I buff all metal parts that rub or slide against each other when pulling the trigger. This does not change the pounds of pull [much] but it does make for a super fine smooth pull where I can feel the spot just before the hammer drops. No herky jerky motion.
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  #18  
Old 12-24-2017, 11:29 AM
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on my last 10/22 I cleaned the barrel socket on the receiver and put some oil on the barrel shank and lapped the barrel face to the receiver. just enough to clean up the faces then cleaned everything up with lighter fluid and installed the barrel with red Loctite on the barrel shank as much to firm up the joint as anything else. shoots great and if I have to a heat gun will soften it up for removable. have a good holiday
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  #19  
Old 12-24-2017, 11:52 AM
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Remove the paint using one of the many above methods ( please stay away from the end mill method, unless you are a skilled machinist). I do caution against removing any receiver metal without precision equipment.

I understand, you want 100% contact around the barrel base, or as close as you can.

I didn't prove out the math, but I am surprised that .002 would equal 4" at 25 yards, my math tells me that is 16" at 100 yards, but I could be missing a lot.

Please also note, the .002 paint thickness was just a guess. If it is thick enough to flake off, it has a certain amount of substance. If it were in the tenths, it would look light and clean off with chemicals.

Then I ask, does the rifle have adjustable sights or scope? It should adjust for any receiver/barrel tolerances unless there is some tolerance stack occurring.

Let us know how you make out

Rich
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  #20  
Old 12-24-2017, 12:55 PM
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I can see where the finish is chipped and how thick it is, I would estimate it is at least .008" think in the area that is chipped which you can see in the photo. I may try some acetone and see what happens, if I cant get it off I will use it as is it just would be better I think if the finish there was removed.
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  #21  
Old 12-24-2017, 12:58 PM
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Well I see that the math explanation wasn't very clear, so I'll try pictures:



If the elevation turret is exactly centered, then it will be parallel to the bore. Therefore, if you shoot a bullet that has ZERO drop at 25 yards (or any distance), the POI will be lower than the crosshairs by exactly the disatnce between the center of the scope and center of bore (the top 2" measurement in the diagram). We know that a bullet actually drops (gravity thing), so relative to the bore, the bullet in this diagram drops 2" at 25 yards (assuming CCI SV ammo).

So (OK, sorry, I have to use some math here, so bear with me), 2" + 2" = 4", which is the bullet impact at 25 yards, relative to the cross hairs.
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  #22  
Old 12-24-2017, 01:02 PM
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I use these on a Dremel...

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  #23  
Old 12-24-2017, 02:04 PM
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Figured it out.....

I had tried before to use acetone on the seat to remove the finish and did not have any luck with it, then it dawned on me that the finish is probably some type of epoxy paint that had a hardened surface so I carefully scraped just the paint enough to break the surface and went back at it with the acetone and q tips and a small sharpened wooden dowel rod, that got it ! no damage to the aluminum either you can still see the ream marks from the factory, the small nicks were there already as well as the paint burrs at the top of the barrel seat, thanks everyone.

BARREL SEAT AFTER.JPG
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File Type: jpg BARREL SEAT AFTER.JPG (264.9 KB, 5 views)
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  #24  
Old 12-24-2017, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaser View Post
I use these on a Dremel...

Those work good, I have used them on a 10/22 before to remove the finish for a buddy of mine.
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  #25  
Old 12-24-2017, 02:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rawhp View Post
Well I see that the math explanation wasn't very clear, so I'll try pictures:



If the elevation turret is exactly centered, then it will be parallel to the bore. Therefore, if you shoot a bullet that has ZERO drop at 25 yards (or any distance), the POI will be lower than the crosshairs by exactly the disatnce between the center of the scope and center of bore (the top 2" measurement in the diagram). We know that a bullet actually drops (gravity thing), so relative to the bore, the bullet in this diagram drops 2" at 25 yards (assuming CCI SV ammo).

So (OK, sorry, I have to use some math here, so bear with me), 2" + 2" = 4", which is the bullet impact at 25 yards, relative to the cross hairs.
Thanks for that rawhp, I am probably good to go with the receiver.
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  #26  
Old 12-25-2017, 08:17 PM
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Try some 1500 Grit Sand Paper

1500 grit sand paper for metal finishing. It will slowly remove the paint without taking the metal down.
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  #27  
Old 12-25-2017, 10:25 PM
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Those Dremel wheels are very handy Chase. I used them a lot for polishing/de-burring many small items. The quick change chucking feature is the cats meow.

I use the reinforced cut off wheels a lot, and the quick change feature is really cool
for those especially, as the cut off wheels wear out fairly fast.
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  #28  
Old 12-27-2017, 07:03 PM
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Good work CZ, it looks like you accomplished exactly what you wanted.

Let us know how you make out

Rich
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  #29  
Old 12-27-2017, 07:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redlightrich View Post
Good work CZ, it looks like you accomplished exactly what you wanted.

Let us know how you make out

Rich
Will do Rich.....thanks....
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  #30  
Old 12-27-2017, 08:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redlightrich View Post
I didn't prove out the math, but I am surprised that .002 would equal 4" at 25 yards, my math tells me that is 16" at 100 yards, but I could be missing a lot.
Only ~8" at 100 yards due to the 0.002", Here's the math:

((25 yards x 36 inches)/0.920 inches) x 0.002 inches = 1.957"

The 4" drop at 25 yards is expected, explained by bullet drop and scope to bore offset. I don't think the paint is really a contributing factor, but if it were, it's a lot less than 0.002" thick otherwise the POI would be 6 inches low.

Last edited by rawhp; 12-27-2017 at 08:48 PM.
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