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  #1  
Old 05-01-2019, 02:11 AM
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Bolt buffer in my TD



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Not sure what's different, but I have tried three different bolt buffers in my TD that dont fit.
They all fit perfectly in my regular 10/22, but are way too big for the TD. I have the stainless and synthetic stock.
Anyone else experience this, and find a buffer that fits?

Bit frustrated with this one.

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  #2  
Old 05-01-2019, 02:36 AM
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my guess is your take down rifle just has more paint build up in the buffer hole than your others. If it was me Id try a little wax or mild water based lube on one end of the buffer and try it. Something like Imperial maybe. Some of the buffers are kind of gummy.
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  #3  
Old 05-01-2019, 07:21 AM
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if the steel bolt stop pin from your other 10/22 will fit in your TD, then the diameter of the hole in the receiver is the same, so the aftermarket buffer should fit

may have to cut a bevel on the end of the buffer to get it started in the hole
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  #4  
Old 08-19-2019, 12:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Boom View Post
Not sure what's different, but I have tried three different bolt buffers in my TD that dont fit.
They all fit perfectly in my regular 10/22, but are way too big for the TD. I have the stainless and synthetic stock.
Anyone else experience this, and find a buffer that fits?

Bit frustrated with this one.
I purchased a 3-pak of buffers from JWH at same time I got a bolt & other stuff. Only one fit my new TD properly.

But, I have also experienced that with some of my other [non] TD 10/22's as well.

Worst case scenario, drill out the bolt buffer hole a little bit till one fits snug.
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Old 08-19-2019, 08:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MannlicherFan View Post
I purchased a 3-pak of buffers from JWH at same time I got a bolt & other stuff. Only one fit my new TD properly.

But, I have also experienced that with some of my other [non] TD 10/22's as well.

Worst case scenario, drill out the bolt buffer hole a little bit till one fits snug.
Carefully - it's easy to take just a bit too much off....

I opted for using a 1/4" rod, cut a couple rough length, sanded a small bevel in the end, and actually had to thin one just a bit for one of my TI receivers (was too snug)

$6.89 for 1 foot, and free shipping.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Last edited by jam_ppp; 08-19-2019 at 08:07 AM.
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Old 08-19-2019, 03:53 PM
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My “Tuff Buff “ slipped right in, no fuss, no muss
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Old 08-19-2019, 04:29 PM
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I had a little trouble with one of my Feddersen receivers being too tight to get a buffer in. Tried a few different ones. I ended up going to the hardware store and buying some fuel line and steel roll pins and made my own. Fits fine now. Unfortunately the roll pins could only be bought in a 500 pack and the gas line 5' length. So I shouldn't have to worry about buying any more buffers in the next couple hundred years or so.
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Old 08-19-2019, 05:41 PM
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Silly question, but why do we need them? Doesn’t the charging handle limit bolt travel?
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Old 08-19-2019, 06:05 PM
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I still gotta try the hardwood dowel out.....
IF you choose to enlarge the action holes fractional size drill bits are not the proper tool. Number size would be better but an adjustable reamer is the correct tool.

Last edited by gcrank1; 08-19-2019 at 09:13 PM.
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  #10  
Old 08-19-2019, 08:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jam_ppp View Post
Carefully - it's easy to take just a bit too much off....

I opted for using a 1/4" rod, cut a couple rough length, sanded a small bevel in the end, and actually had to thin one just a bit for one of my TI receivers (was too snug)

$6.89 for 1 foot, and free shipping.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Good point! I have one of these.. 29pc Titanium Split Point Drill Bit Set - 1/64th's increments makes it much easier to go up a tiny bit at a time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Toomany22s View Post
Silly question, but why do we need them? Doesn’t the charging handle limit bolt travel?
"Officially" they eliminate the "clacking" sound the bolt makes when it contacts the factory metal part when cycling.
"They" go on to say that repeated "blows" to the factory metal part will cause the hole in the receiver to become elongated.

Aftermarket buffers only cost a couple $$, so everybody installs one & enjoys the piece of mind.

I was already ordering a bolt from JWH Custom because..
(1.) I've always wanted one of they're 2nd amendment bolts & (2.) they were on sale for $69, normally $99.
Already had 5x JWH bolts, all work flawlessly - getting one of my favorites for $30 off was a no-brainier.

Anyways, adding a 3-pak of buffers to the order didn't affect ship costs, so what the heck. Ended up using all 3 PDQ.

Here's a link to the JWH buffers - $5.95 w/FREE ship JWH Custom Polyurethane 3 Buffer Kit, Ruger 10/22 Rifle

Somehow I ended up with several of this style.. KIDD .22LR Bolt Buffer - ALL fit WAY too loose.

Here's a 3-pak of the "KIDD style" buffers for $8.99 w/FREE ship.. 3x Viton & Stainless Recoil Bolt Buffer Pins Ruger 10/22, KIDD, Volquartsen

My suggestion to you would be to buy one of those kits... one of the buffers is bound to fit, leave's a couple left over for spares.

Hope that helps

Last edited by MannlicherFan; 08-19-2019 at 09:50 PM.
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  #11  
Old 08-19-2019, 09:32 PM
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Well.. for 55 years, the 10/22 has worked just fine with a steel bolt stop pin.

My 1966 10/22 has countless rounds through it with no battering or elongating. The bolt never hits the pin so a buffer is unnecessary.

I like tuffer buffers
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  #12  
Old 08-19-2019, 09:46 PM
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I think those holes are leftover from the casting process, and that they throw a pin in to make it look complete. Then some other guys say you need a $.005 piece of plastic for a $1.00. Or $2.00 .
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Old 08-20-2019, 11:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammer22 View Post
Well.. for 55 years, the 10/22 has worked just fine with a steel bolt stop pin.

My 1966 10/22 has countless rounds through it with no battering or elongating. The bolt never hits the pin so a buffer is unnecessary.

I like tuffer buffers
2 questions..

1.) was "hot" ammo available back in '64 when the 10/22 first came to market?? Stingers, the Hot Aguila stuff, what-ever Remington calls there's & so on.

2.) What was the "nominal" velocity of 22lr ammo in '64? Today I would call 1200~1260fps nominal because those are the published ratings of most bulk pack 22 ammo.

If, say 1,000~1,100fps was nominal in '64, than maybe the bolt hitting the pin issue wouldn't have been an issue to start with.

Because there wouldn't have been enough recoil energy to drive the bolt all the way back to the point that it would strike the pin.

Just curious...

Last edited by MannlicherFan; 08-21-2019 at 12:58 AM.
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  #14  
Old 08-24-2019, 07:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toomany22s View Post
Silly question, but why do we need them? Doesn’t the charging handle limit bolt travel?
from what i've read, the bolt buffer - actually the "Breechblock Decelerator" - is an integral part of why the 10/22 action works so well - apparently it helps cam-lever the bolt, synching/slowing the action to allow time for the magazine to serve up the next cartridge...

see US Patent #3,246,121, March 15, 1966

(in fact, the patent description denigrates use of a 'resilient' buffer)

willie
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  #15  
Old 08-24-2019, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by linux_author View Post
from what i've read, the bolt buffer - actually the "Breechblock Decelerator" - is an integral part of why the 10/22 action works so well - apparently it helps cam-lever the bolt, synching/slowing the action to allow time for the magazine to serve up the next cartridge...

see US Patent #3,246,121, March 15, 1966

(in fact, the patent description denigrates use of a 'resilient' buffer)

willie
on the Gulf of Mexico
Aha! So the steel buffer is better! Now I have to change them all back! Darn!

What about those glass rod stories and that they run without them stories and all that other stuff?

I just want ones that don’t fall out !

Last edited by Toomany22s; 08-24-2019 at 09:23 AM.
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