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Old 10-19-2021, 05:29 PM
sormi
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I bought a new 5 inch barrel Walther P22 in 2003-04. Anyway went into the back of my safe and I forgot about it. It's unfired and I'd like some help is there any thing that needs to be done before I start shooting it? I've read they preform better with hotter ammo but is there any other adjustment or modification I need to do?
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Old 10-19-2021, 05:53 PM
skywag
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If it were me, I'd sell it before I shot it.

Mine was totally unreliable.
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Old 10-19-2021, 08:22 PM
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I've found that mine works best with the hotter HV ammo. I like Stingers, Velocitors and Punch. Mine is flawless but I can't say I've read that for all of them. You may as well shoot it to see how you like it.
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Old 10-19-2021, 08:27 PM
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Mine has been flawless and after a few years of mini mags it will now shoot standard velocity.
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Old 10-19-2021, 11:43 PM
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I'm pretty sure that one is old enough to benefit from the mods in the P22 Bible that can be found on this site. I would look that up before shooting. But I remanufacture all my factory new guns before I shoot them. It seems I care more about QC than any modern company does.
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Old 10-21-2021, 12:31 AM
1917-1911M
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sormi View Post
I bought a new 5 inch barrel Walther P22 in 2003-04. Anyway went into the back of my safe and I forgot about it. It's unfired and I'd like some help is there any thing that needs to be done before I start shooting it? I've read they preform better with hotter ammo but is there any other adjustment or modification I need to do?
The two letter code on the frame boss at the ejector port will tell you the year. AD for 2003 and AE for 2004. A few of the very early pistols came with mim'd trigger bar ears that were nicely rounded and would not damage the underside of the slide. Later trigger bars were stamped and folded and the front, upper edge of the ears could damage the slide. Some of the early pistols also came with magazines that did not have any rim stagger slots. These did not feed well and at one time you could call S&W and get replacements with the stagger slots. Ft Smith may still honor that. If, you are having feeding issues.

The early pistols had more issues with slides breaking from impact with the takedown lever, a sharper hammer tip profile that would catch in the small gap between the safety drum and rear of the breech block. This was an issue with the slide closing only. The hammer face was reprofiled in about 2007 to address this. Most P22s had an uncaptured recoil spring that seems to give many people reinstallation issues. I never had any. A new captive factory spring assembly can be fitted if you drill the guide rod hole out to 1/4"....very slightly larger than the existing hole.

If you intend to keep it.....choose ammo that is powerful enough to cycle it. The 5" model is less sensitive. Rem Goldens, CCI Mini Mags and others should work fine. Keep an eye on the two grip retaining roll pins that they don't work their way out. Check to make sure the safety lever stays put while cycling the slide and firing.

If you have any issues or breakages, the pistol still has a lifetime warranty and new Q model slide, grips, etc. fit the pistol. There is no longer a trigger safety or key although the internal frame has not been modified and could still receive the parts should that ever become necessary. Negatives of the early pistols....weaker slide, hammer tip prone to stop the slide's forward movement, mags with no stagger slots and possibly very sharp trigger bar ears. Early or old....most P22s as with other light short barrel .22 semi autos can be ammo sensitive. Firm grip always. Photos with the slide off? 1917
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Old 10-21-2021, 03:16 AM
sormi
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P22

Checked for AD,AE. noting is there. The serial number is B000112X if thats any help. Magazine has numbers Mag1. 265 93 36
Mag2. 265 93 44.
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Old 10-21-2021, 04:43 AM
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Originally Posted by skywag View Post
If it were me, I'd sell it before I shot it.

Mine was totally unreliable.
Mine was the same. Didnít matter what ammo, mags, or lubrication I used.
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Old 10-22-2021, 01:26 AM
1917-1911M
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Originally Posted by sormi View Post
Checked for AD,AE. noting is there. The serial number is B000112X if that's any help. Magazine has numbers Mag1. 265 93 36
Mag2. 265 93 44.
I've seen enough history regarding old ZM Walther pistols to never say this is the way it was and the only way it was. Things get changed and many times without any statement.

I'd have to really dig back to the beginning of the P22 to answer some of the questions. This section at one time went back 100+ pages to the very beginning when Members were asking "has anyone seen one of these new P22 pistols, are they any good." I've seen SN's beginning with A and B on some of the AC pistols. Most are marked AC even with low serial numbers. I don't know that anyone has a count on how many were produced before this change or that. The concept of the pistol has not changed. Somewhere in the very early days the serial number had a prefix of L or N. As I recall the L was the 3.4" barrel length model and the N was the 5" model with the stabilizer and at one time you could purchase a boxed set with both barrels.

Some of the very, very early magazines did not have a rim stagger slot and did not function properly. They were also blued. I have always been of the opinion the numbers on the mags were part numbers. Stainless mags soon appeared with 1" rim stagger slots and the metal tabs which engage the mag disconnect safety and the mag catch were stamped to extend further out from the mag body. Early on there were a number of complaints of unintended mag releases.....I think most of us attributed that to shooter error....finger on the mag release leaver for these buttonless pistols.

I can't say that I've seen a photo of the pistol without a date code although these are not stamped into the frame but are painted on???. I suppose some type of cleaner could remove them. I would be curious what your trigger bar ears look like. The early ones were mim'd and nicely rounded. Less expensive stamped and folded trigger bars would soon replace them along with problems the cheaper process caused with the ears eating away the underside of the slide.

The hammer had a flat face with a sharper tip which was prone to catch in the small gap between the safety drum and rear of the breech block. In about 2007 Walther revised the hammer face in an attempt to address this. The problem was that the hammer tip would catch in the gap at about the same time the slide was trying to strip a round from the mag and the slide would just stop. A light tap on the rear of the slide would cause it to close...but still, this was no good and there were a log of complaints. Same for the large gap between the extractor face and rim which allowed hot brass to fly in any direction. The next complaint was the long recoil spring that many found hard to manage when remounting the slide. I never had an issue with it. And then there was the slide cracking issue. Most day in and day out problems were with ammo that was simply too weak to cycle the slide properly.

Walther has resolved most of these issues with later pistols and the newer stuff fits the old pistols including slide and grips, extractor and magazines. The original pistol had P99 ergonomics while the Q version has PPQ design themes. Again, all of the pistols have a lifetime warranty. What do those trigger bar ears look like? 1917



I would have figured your pistol would look similar to the above with exception of being a target version with the 5" barrel and stabilizer. PM me if you want to sell it. I have a farm in Copiah county and am over in MS on a fairly regular basis. I've paid $225 for the last two Q models I've purchased.

Last edited by 1917-1911M; 10-22-2021 at 01:31 AM.
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