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  #1  
Old 05-18-2021, 12:14 AM
bocash3
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Angry Winch 52 Re-Issue Scope Mount



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Howdy

The (Winchester brand) Winchester reproduction (Miroku) recently obtained
has a Burris one-piece steel mount using Redfield style Dovetail
turn-in ring in front.

Started out with LOW turn-in rings for accuracy reasons.

BOLT hit back of scope enough so it would not function...could not draw it
to the rear.

Changed to Medium rings. SAME DEAL.

Changed to High rings............. Bolt rubbed scope housing so we know bluing of bolt and scope finish would be affected.

So changed again to Extra High rings. Bolt now clears the scope, but if handle is pulled up too far when cycling, it will once again rub the scope.

Not sure what else to do, but am not real happy with the situation.......... scope is now way up above the bullet path coming out of barrel, plus bolt can still rub the scope unless purposely cycled low as possible.

YES, I compared a few other scopes on hand and they would have the same problem.

So has anyone else had this problem?

2nd question: what style/model of Weaver base will match the same mount holes as this Burris base IF I can get it off? On first attempt, I bent two Allen wrenches even after allowing Kroil to soak in. Could previous owner have used Locktite? ? If so, I would like to share my thoughts of disgust.

Thanks so much in advance. Bo

Last edited by bocash3; 05-18-2021 at 12:17 AM.
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Old 05-18-2021, 08:39 AM
dokey
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What brand scope are you using? I have 3- 52C Sporters that have Weaver K-4 and K-6 scopes mounted on Buehler T-2 bases and #8 high rings. The bolt cycles fine
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Old 05-18-2021, 09:10 AM
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I have a Leupold VX-1 28mm 2-7 in unmarked (probably Weaver) 2 piece mount that I am very pleased with on a Winchester 52R.

Regards,

Tam 3
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Old 05-18-2021, 09:46 AM
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When I first scoped mine Bo I had to go very high with the Weaver Grand Slam, very unhappy I switched over to a Weaver Classic 4-16 and was able to lower it a good bit, appearance wise much better to me.




Still pretty high but no longer looks like a Monkey making love to a football...

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Old 05-18-2021, 09:50 AM
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There are several other posts on here about this, some even with pics. The problem with the Burris mount is that it forces the scope forward so that the eyepiece is also moved forward and then interferes with the bolt handle. I used a set of Talley bases and medium rings to move the scope to the rear to gain some clearance. The other thing that helps is to use a scope with a smaller diameter eyepiece like a Leupold 3x9 Compact EFR.
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Old 05-18-2021, 05:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bocash3 View Post

2nd question: what style/model of Weaver base will match the same mount holes as this Burris base IF I can get it off?

Weaver #46s will fit front and rear.

Weaver 85s will fit; the 85s sit a little higher and are closer to the O.D. of the receiver.

From my notes for other makes:
Conetrol 45T599G2
Leupold 50032 (marked for Euro A-Bolt)
Leupold 50038.
Leupold XXXXX Dual Dovetail
Redfield 512019 Dual Dovetail
SK Mounts "CF"
Warne Maxima Steel M902/902M

Last edited by 3Dub; 10-07-2021 at 07:34 PM. Reason: deleted Leupold #50046. see post # 31
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Old 05-18-2021, 10:00 PM
bocash3
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THANKS fellers.

ALL good ideas. Good to hear from Gerald. GREAT LOOKING Winchester rig by the way!!!! Ya sure got some purdy stuff.

As stated before, Burris one-piece mount, nice but bulky too. It came to me with this mount. May have said Redfield, but the rings are actually Weaver Extra-High rings. Really became frustrated trying out 4 sets of rings, squaring the scope, etc.............. and still not really happy with the bolt handle "able" to hit rear of scope if I allow it to fully rise to maximum height.

So now thinking of starting over.

I did attempt to remove the base but all screws were stuck tight.......bent either an Allen or Torx wrench, can't remember now. It was a quality Bit out of a Wheeler gunsmith driver set. This scared me. I fear the screws are either stripped or close to it. So now how do I get them out without drilling and risking digging into receiver metal?? I soaked the screws in Kroil already, but went ahead and used that Burris mount, figuring it was not worth the risk to attempt removing the base.

SCOPE: this one is a sleeper, introduced to me by a friend. LEBO 4-16x40 Side Focus. Am amazed at the quality per dollar spent.

Yes, I could install a smaller diameter scope but want the higher magnification for this particular rifle. I will not go below 10 power but prefer 14 to 18. BUT IF I'm
not happy with banging fingers and/or bolt handle against the scope, I may have to reluctantly consider a 2-7x32 or something similar.

Going to shoot that rifle at my personal mountain range next week, then decide as to what to do with the scope situation.

Meanwhile, any and all ideas are greatly appreciated.

Y'all take care, Puzzled Bo in western NC

Last edited by bocash3; 05-18-2021 at 10:06 PM.
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Old 05-20-2021, 02:23 AM
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Get an extra bolt handle and grind it down so you can use any set up you want. $70.00 works great.
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Old 05-20-2021, 08:26 AM
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I settled on Weaver Grand Slam (i.e. steel) bases for mine.
Part of the problem is that many of the modern scopes that people want to use, have (overly?) large ocular ends - this is where the rub comes (pun intended) IMO.
Here's a picture of mine with a vintage Redfield 6400 scope (no mega-ocular) and low or medium rings.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 52BRedfield.jpg (209.9 KB, 351 views)
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Old 05-20-2021, 10:03 PM
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I used Weaver bases with Burris Signature Zees. It worked out fine with a Weaver V24

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Old 05-20-2021, 10:34 PM
bocash3
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You know how you sometimes have certain things that bug you??

OK.............so opportunity to shoot the 52 with super high mounts and 16x LEBO scope is next week when I visit my cabin that has a rifle range.

But the fact I could not successfully turn the screws on the Burris base to remove is really bothering me. I want that thing off so I can start over with Weaver bases and maybe a different scope. On 1st and 2nd attempts to remove, I could tell the wrench was beginning to slip and strip the internal part of the scope base screws.

On another note: I have a nice older Vari=X-2 (I think) Leupold 3-10x40 sitting on an Anschutz 141 and maybe it just might be smaller in the rear. It's not as powerful as I wanted, but it would do. I could move that LEBO 4-16 to the Annie.

BUT I want to shoot the 52 as-is before monkeying with removing that Burris base, assuming I might be able to.
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Old 05-21-2021, 07:32 AM
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It could be that the the base were Loctited when attached (another pet peeve of mine, at least for a rimfire). Judicious application of moderate heat should solve that problem if it exists, otherwise, tapping on the the bit when it's in the screw and before putting on the screwdriver handle will also help loosen things up.
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Old 05-21-2021, 08:03 AM
bocash3
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gewehrfreund

THANKS!! I had thought about heat, but totally forgot about the "tapping" technique. I've used that for stubborn big bolts and or impact wrench use.

THANKS for the reminder. Funny, I can remember a 14 inch rainbow trout landed on New Year's Day in 1969 but can't remember what I had for supper last night.

AFTER I actually shoot the pretty critter next week, I'll do my best to report progress on scope base removal and what scope the rifle gets next.

Headed to a doctor out-of=town now. I retired from teaching biology and sciences 20 years ago so I would "have more time for doctor appointments."

Y'all are the best!

Bo

Last edited by bocash3; 05-21-2021 at 08:05 AM.
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  #14  
Old 06-13-2021, 06:57 PM
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Latest report:

Just to follow-up.....................................

Those interested saw where I had to change rings 4 times going Up from Low, Med., High, and finally Xtra High. -- to get clearance between bolt handle and rear of scope. It barely clears IF I hold bolt on the lowest height when cycling.

Then was not happy with the high scope, so tore all off again.

APPLIED heat to each Burris scope base screw with wood burning tool. No luck.

APPLIED heat as above with soldering iron. No luck.

REMOVED action. Then APPLIED a LOT of heat to scope bases and screws with propane torch............ tried to turn screws.........NO LUCK. Allowed to cool. NO LUCK.

In the end, in spite of Kroil, torque, taps with hammer, and 3 types of applied heat, PATIENCE, the screws and Burris base remains!!!!

ALL screws are now stripped. The Allen openings inside are ruined. My Wheeler gunsmith Allen bit is in good shape, so the screws were a softer metal. I refuse to drill those screw heads out for fear of having permanent screws in the barrel with No Heads! I've never encountered this before.

So here we go again: I re-installed Weaver X-tra High turn-in rings and the 4-16x side focus scope with fat rear end. Squared and bore-sighted scope again (this now makes about 6 times).

Hey, the scope's high for me, but it works!! And from what little I saw, this will shoot 5 rounds into one hole at 25 yards w/ bulk ammo. Next time at my range at the cabin, I will go to 75 yards and experiment with target grade stuff.

WHILE at it, I removed the "lawyer roll pin" from trigger housing. So will take that awful 7-8 pound pull down to around 2 pounds on the next outing.


End of report, I think.

Bubba Bo's Backyard Shade Tree Gunsmith Co., Inc.
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Old 06-14-2021, 02:13 AM
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Wow those stuck screws sound like a pain in the butt, If you do decide to drill them out use a reverse twist drill this sometimes will loosen the screw and makes the removal easier. Donít you just love it when a bubba gets ahold of a nice firearm.
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