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  #31  
Old 12-28-2020, 01:42 PM
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Thanks for the update Ken. I see that you are going to get the Arca adapter for a bipod. I assume there is no way to attach a standard picatinny rail under the forend, which would force you to go the Arca rail route ?
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  #32  
Old 12-28-2020, 02:08 PM
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Iím getting a bipod that directly attaches to the ARCA rail.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/10...scription-link

Iím trying to not use adapters. There are 3 small holes at the end of the fore end, Iím not sure what they may do for you.
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  #33  
Old 12-28-2020, 02:18 PM
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Look at this thread post #9

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forum...ighlight=McRee

Looks like he has a small picatinny rail where those 3 holes are.
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  #34  
Old 12-28-2020, 04:44 PM
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I see where McRees sells some picatinny sections too. My Annie is a 2006, so I would most likely have the same issues and have to file down those areas too, so Iím debating whether itís worth it considering the cost. The real proof in the pudding is if the rifle shoots any better for you in the end, and as long as youíre happy with the fit and looks of it.
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  #35  
Old 12-28-2020, 10:02 PM
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Hi Ken, Iím on the verge of ordering a stock for my 64 MPR also. Would it be possible for you to take a few photos of where you had to file the inner surfaces so that your rifle properly fit the chassis. If I feel confident that I can do the same then Iíll more than likely order one before their December promotional offer ends.

Thanks again for all your efforts
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  #36  
Old 12-29-2020, 11:07 AM
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I took it apart again this morning, and you can see the black sharpie ink that I put on the bare metal after filing. You can also see one little spec of silver to the right of the bolt slot, that shows me where the safety lever still rubs.



I took my little single cut swiss file and hit that area again.





You can see the shiny band of metal after filing. I would say that little band, is probably the only area I really had to hit, I think you can ignore all of the other black areas. I should have been using the sharpie all along every time to show me the rub spots after filing and reassembling.

I also took a photo of the 3 holes at the end of the fore arm. Two are threaded, one isnít. The two threaded ones have the set screws in them that pressed inside against the picatinny rail I removed.

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  #37  
Old 12-29-2020, 12:27 PM
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Thanks for all your updates Ken, glad youíve got yours all sorted out now.
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  #38  
Old 12-30-2020, 05:46 AM
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No problem, just have the long wait now for a warm calm day when the range is open.
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  #39  
Old 01-09-2021, 09:01 AM
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It was sunny and light wind yesterday, so I ran off to the range. Upper 30ís, and a light cold wind at my back. I still donít have a 3mm key for my torque wrench, so I am not sure of rear action screw torque.

I definitely like the chassis. It feels rock solid to me shooting with a bipod and a rear sand bag. The bipod is Accu-tac and mounts directly to the ARCA rail.

I added some 1/16Ē neoprene rubber sheet to the metal cheek rest, I liked the feeling of it especially on a cold day. I also added the little rear slider extra from Mcree, for the bottom of the buttstock.

I stayed for about 2 hours, till my hands started to ache from the cold. Shot a bunch of different new ammo I havenít tried before. Some RWS R50, SK long range match.

I am still kind of new to this game, and I feel I am still getting better each time I go out, but I would say the chassis has made the rifle more stable and accurate, and only helped to improve things.
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  #40  
Old 01-09-2021, 09:53 AM
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Good to hear your happy with the chassis now Ken, Iím sure the more you shoot the gun the more comfortable youíll get with it, especially when spring comes around and youíre not freezing at the range.
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  #41  
Old 01-09-2021, 10:49 AM
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I forgot to add the built in level came in handy, the bench I was stuck using yesterday was very out of level.
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  #42  
Old 01-09-2021, 10:55 AM
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Here is a photo with the neoprene on the cheek rest and the black bag rider on the bottom

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  #43  
Old 01-09-2021, 06:38 PM
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That chassis looks good.

Take care with those Nm settings.

If those action screws are different sizes the maximum Nm values can not be the same and if there is any oil or lubrication on those screws you could apply >5 Nm without even knowing.

For the screw sizes you have listed and not knowing the quality of the steel I would suggest a maximum of 2.5 Nm.

Some Anschutz barrels are most accurate at as low as 1.5Nm and there is no set value for best accuracy.

E.

Last edited by ECC; 01-09-2021 at 06:54 PM.
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  #44  
Old 01-10-2021, 10:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ECC View Post
That chassis looks good.

Take care with those Nm settings.

If those action screws are different sizes the maximum Nm values can not be the same and if there is any oil or lubrication on those screws you could apply >5 Nm without even knowing.

For the screw sizes you have listed and not knowing the quality of the steel I would suggest a maximum of 2.5 Nm.

Some Anschutz barrels are most accurate at as low as 1.5Nm and there is no set value for best accuracy.

E.
Thanks for the warning EC. Anyone have a recommendation for a torque wrench that is accurate at these low values? Most also come with rather short bits and I need long keys for this chassis.

I have the Anschutz torque wrench which starts at 4nm, which was the recommended maximum in the booklet with the rifle, and I wonder about the accuracy at the bottom of the range.

Last edited by Ken_N; 01-10-2021 at 10:06 AM.
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  #45  
Old 01-12-2021, 03:39 AM
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I have a few torque wrenches at my factory but use a Wheeler Digital for the low settings. It’s lowest setting is 15 inch/lbs but the first audio advice is at about 12 inch/lbs.

My front and rear action screws are 5mm and 4mm and I think 48 inch/lbs is way too much for a 4mm screw going into a 5mm insert.

I have my 64 SBR now set at 20 front and back and it seems to like this setting.

E.

Last edited by ECC; 01-12-2021 at 03:43 AM.
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