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  #166  
Old 12-03-2019, 11:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LorenatBMS View Post
Have you removed the front hand guards and the hand guard metal that fits around the barrel?
Have not as I'm not sure how to get them off. How do you get the handguard metal off?
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  #167  
Old 12-03-2019, 12:04 PM
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Take a look at post #14 here.

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forum...d.php?t=712681

Three set screes on the bottom side of the fake gas block/tube. Loosen them and the gas tube slides off, as do the hand guards.
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  #168  
Old 12-03-2019, 12:51 PM
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Those front two must be Loctited in as I can't budge them.
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  #169  
Old 12-03-2019, 01:08 PM
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I would put some heat on them to help break the Loctite.
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  #170  
Old 12-03-2019, 02:22 PM
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You need to find the correct allen wrench to remove the front gas cylinder and slide it off the barrel ,than the front hand guard and the rear hand will slide forward off of the barrel .Back out the take down screw and lift the barreled action just like a standard 10/22 . Use a electric soldering gun to heat the head of the allen screw and back it out.

Last edited by izhm; 12-04-2019 at 05:35 AM.
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  #171  
Old 12-03-2019, 03:42 PM
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I got my Kingston M1 working this fall. I ended up putting in a Kidd Bolt and a Kidd charging handle and reduced power recoil spring. Running a standard 10/22 trigger pack.

I have been shooting CCI Blazer 40 grain, Federal Champion 40 grain, and Aguila Standard Velocity 40 grain, using Ruger BX-1 and BX-15 mags. I have put over 1000 rounds through it, and am averaging a failure ratio of less than 1% (I think I have had 5 stovepipes to date, but can't remember for sure - I am at work and my notes are at home).

Not the cheapest fix, but it is working reliably now and I am happy with it.

Good luck to all!

Brad
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  #172  
Old 12-03-2019, 07:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad76 View Post
I got my Kingston M1 working this fall. I ended up putting in a Kidd Bolt and a Kidd charging handle and reduced power recoil spring. Running a standard 10/22 trigger pack.

I have been shooting CCI Blazer 40 grain, Federal Champion 40 grain, and Aguila Standard Velocity 40 grain, using Ruger BX-1 and BX-15 mags. I have put over 1000 rounds through it, and am averaging a failure ratio of less than 1% (I think I have had 5 stovepipes to date, but can't remember for sure - I am at work and my notes are at home).

Not the cheapest fix, but it is working reliably now and I am happy with it.

Good luck to all!

Brad
It sounds like you have a good combination with the Kidd bolt and charging handle.
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  #173  
Old 12-03-2019, 11:55 PM
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First- loosen the 3 allen screws in the base of the front sight piece. Do NOT loosen the allen screw that allows drift adjustment on the front sight.

The correct ones are somewhat hidden on the bottom, and are small.
They are on the part that would hold the 'gas port' and gas tube on an M1 Garand, but they slide over a solid rod of steel instead.

Once those are loose, you can slide the entire front sight assembly off.

Once that is off, the handguards and other parts slide off the barrel- toward the muzzle. Once all of those loose parts are off, then you can remove the action from the stock [since you have loosened the stock/action bolt on bottom of rifle].

Reverse it to reinstall.
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  #174  
Old 01-10-2020, 06:59 PM
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NIB Kingston Garand

My apologies in advance if I'm breaking any rules by posting this.

A friend of mine who is a dealer has a Kingston Garand that's NIB if there is anyone here that's interested. It was ordered by him when Kingston first released the Garands. He ordered two, sold one but not the other... yet.

Send me a PM and I'll get you hooked up.
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  #175  
Old 08-01-2020, 05:56 PM
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This seems like the best spot on the internet for info on these guys. I have e a few questions I hope you all can help with.

1. What length barrel is on the Kingston Garand?

2. Can the Kingston bolt be used in a Ruger receiver?
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  #176  
Old 08-01-2020, 06:35 PM
LorenatBMS

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Barrel is 24 inches and the bolt would work in a Ruger receiver.
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  #177  
Old 08-01-2020, 06:55 PM
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The bolt should work in the Ruger receiver, but the Kingston bolt isn't as tall as a Ruger bolt. It doesn't stick 'down' as far. Thinner? Shorter?

It will work fine in the Ruger receiver, but I am more concerned about the trigger system on any other firearm. I don't know if it will always depress the hammer enough to engage the sear and lock the hammer back on every design.

I did a lot of work to try to make the Kingston reliable.

Eventually, I jettisoned the receiver [bolt sat cocked in it and this led to loading/ejection issues], the bolt and the trigger group [got doubling on the JARD- they fixed it, but still didn't care for it].

I used Ruger bolt, Ruger receiver and Ruger's BX trigger group. Had to relieve the wood a bit for the safety, but all is great now.
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  #178  
Old 08-01-2020, 08:08 PM
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Iíve built a few custom rifles off the Kingston Armory receivers that were liquidated after the bankruptcy.

I havenít had any issues, but I used all high quality Kidd internals and barrels.
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  #179  
Old 08-01-2020, 08:28 PM
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Thanx guys.

I ask about the bolt cause ive got a line on a good deal on Kingston bolt and was looking to throw it in a build project. Not sure if I want to waste the money or just get a ruger bolt.
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  #180  
Old 08-01-2020, 08:30 PM
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I would buy a Ruger bolt
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