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  #1  
Old 07-26-2020, 05:56 PM
Kragman

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Feeling a little drooped...



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So I went the extra $$$ and bought the BKL 6-screw droop mount for my Parrus.
Nice mount BTW. Expensive but also seems like my slippage problems are over.
But it made no difference in POI to the previous mount so I'm still low.

I figure shims are the next step - any advice on doing it right? I'm going to need a substantial shimming so not a candidate for tape, etc.

Does anyone know if the Hawke shims will work with the BKL mount?

Thanks
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  #2  
Old 07-27-2020, 10:05 PM
Kragman

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Well, the dims looked like they'll fit with a little room to spare so I ordered them. We'll see how they are when they arrive.
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Old 07-28-2020, 08:29 AM
tmen52

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I always used cuts of plastic bottles or plastic lids like coffee can lid for my shims. I used them mostly to keep my scope internals stress free(er) and reticle more optically centered.
I've never experienced any slippage in any of my one-piece mounts UTG or RWS on any of my spring guns (350 magnum) or gas pistons.
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  #4  
Old 07-29-2020, 02:26 AM
KeisiMekaigo

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kragman View Post
So I went the extra $$$ and bought the BKL 6-screw droop mount for my Parrus.
Nice mount BTW. Expensive but also seems like my slippage problems are over.
But it made no difference in POI to the previous mount so I'm still low.

I figure shims are the next step - any advice on doing it right? I'm going to need a substantial shimming so not a candidate for tape, etc.

Does anyone know if the Hawke shims will work with the BKL mount?

Thanks
It is inusual. The BKL "6-screws" that are compensated mounts, have a compensation around 24 MOAs. That´s something that must get up your POA.
But not all the BKL "6-screws" are compensated mounts. I guess you have a compensated one.
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  #5  
Old 07-29-2020, 04:24 AM
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Don't want to sound facetious, but you have fitted the mount the right way round?

I have a couple of these mounts and one of them has the main clamp screw heads on the right hand side of the mount when fitted with the droop compensation facing forwards, the other example is the other way round i.e. screw heads to left hand side with droop forwards.

It nearly caught me out until I double checked the markings on the mount.

Assuming it is fitted correctly, if it hasn't solved the issue, I would be looking at the rifle having a problem.

Last edited by rockdrill; 07-29-2020 at 06:18 AM.
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  #6  
Old 07-29-2020, 12:41 PM
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I had to bend the barrel on my blue HW35E in order to get enough elevation for its Nikon 3-9 EFR to work. Assuming your rifle is a break barrel, here's one approach:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-fiNCKpaMaY
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  #7  
Old 07-29-2020, 10:52 PM
Kragman

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Its a fair question Rockdrill, and tonight I had a chance to pull it out and give it a hard check with a ruler.
Its a bit less than 1 mm (around .025 or .030" by eye) lower at the front when I measure from the compression tube to the bottom of the screw head counterbores on either end. Screw heads are on the left.

Oldgringo - I'm not quite ready to start bending barrels yet, but if I get there I'll post about it here.

The Walther Parrus in question probably only has 100 rounds through it so far, and it is shooting very well. As a bonus, the originally "nice but a little heavy" trigger seems to be improving more than my increased familiarity with it should account for.

Next time I have a little fun money I'm going to order a tin each of the original and improved versions of the JSB Monsters. They might be too heavy but this rifle has significant power, and I think it may shoot them well.
Or they won't and I'll convince myself that I just need a little more spring, and "drunk dial" Vortek with my card in hand.... ha ha!!!
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  #8  
Old 07-29-2020, 11:20 PM
Kragman

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The five shot group at the bottom was made at 9 yards with RWS 9.3 grain wadcutters from a very sketchy "rest", which is to say an awkwardly low copper pipe running from my furnace. I have to shoot with my face inconsistently held off the stock, fight the wobbles, etc but I can still shoot well enought to get a read.
This group shows the limit of my precision, not the rifle's. I'm really looking forward to getting the scope issue settled so that I can give it an honest test.
Hoping for a nice, still day to get it to the range.
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File Type: jpg Screenshot_2020-07-26-21-54-28_1596081211790.jpg (89.4 KB, 3 views)
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  #9  
Old 07-31-2020, 10:55 AM
KeisiMekaigo

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¿¿¿???? Ok, Ok,... 9 yards!!!???.
The first thing you must do is calculate how many MOAs you need.
For example, with a scope with 30 mm tube, 1" rings,... you could need about 3" without counting pellet drop (distance between barrel axis and rings axis). At 9 yards (9 yards!!!), that is around 33 MOAs, pellet drop excluded.
So, if you have a compensated mount, you have "eaten" all the compensation before begin.
Could be that if you go to 50 yards, you will have MOAs to spare for you and some friends (cause that 3" at 50 yards are 6 MOAs, not 33 MOAs, althought the pellet drops 20 MOAs).
First, calculate how many MOAs you will need.
http://www.jbmballistics.com/ could help you.
Then, look for the solution.

Last edited by KeisiMekaigo; 07-31-2020 at 11:05 AM.
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  #10  
Old 07-31-2020, 12:33 PM
KeisiMekaigo

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I draw this picture (appologies for my bad drawing), to ilustrate previous post.
At very short range, the angle between barrel and line of sight is bigger then at medium range. So you have more MOAs to correct.
Adjustable mounts like sportsmatch or FX, combined with a compensated rail like the UTG one, are a good and versatile solution too that let an easy range change.
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  #11  
Old 07-31-2020, 08:44 PM
Kragman

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Thanks Keisi

Point of aim was the bottom of the diamond about 3/8" above the group.
I ordered Hawke shims that have about 25 moa to them. That should put me about 2" high at 10 yards and keep the scope from being internally over adjusted.

And 9 yards is all I have indoors. And I really wish it were 10! 😕
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