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Old 03-25-2019, 12:19 PM
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Tandemkross High Performance Kit for Ruger MKIII 22/45



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Has anybody used the Tandemkross High Performance Kit in their Mark? I am getting ready to try this with the hope it will actually improve assembly and magazine drop on this pistol.

Last edited by atrox88; 03-26-2019 at 06:09 AM.
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Old 03-25-2019, 11:16 PM
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Can't find that terminology on their site. What does it include?
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Old 03-26-2019, 06:11 AM
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1 Steel Hammer Bushing for the Mark III™ 22/45™
1 "Kanewolf" Slingshot upgrade
1 LCI replacement in black OR stainless steel
1 "Firestarter" Titanium Firing Pin
1 "Eagle Talon" Extractor
1 Extended Magazine Release

https://www.tandemkross.com/High-Per...245_p_185.html
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  #4  
Old 03-26-2019, 06:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atrox88 View Post
Has anybody used the Tandemkross High Performance Kit in their Mark? I am getting ready to try this with the hope it will actually improve assembly and magazine drop on this pistol.
Don't want to rain on your parade but the kit will not make assembly any easier if you take the gun apart. The kit will help the magazines drop better because you are removing the mag safety parts and replacing it with a washer on the hammer bushing.

All other parts in the kit are nice to have but will not do anything to help with assembly. You could buy the spacer by itself and remove the mag safety parts and be good to go.

If you don't like the LCI you can take it out if you can get it out, some take a little bit of work to get it out and grind off the protrusion on the LCI and put it back in and you are good to go with it.
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Old 03-26-2019, 06:57 AM
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OOPS, just looked at parts list again and it does not have the spacer for the hammer bushing it has a new hammer bushing. You could get a spacer for the old bushing and use it and get the same results.
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Old 03-26-2019, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by bubba68 View Post
Don't want to rain on your parade but the kit will not make assembly any easier if you take the gun apart. The kit will help the magazines drop better because you are removing the mag safety parts and replacing it with a washer on the hammer bushing.

All other parts in the kit are nice to have but will not do anything to help with assembly. You could buy the spacer by itself and remove the mag safety parts and be good to go.

If you don't like the LCI you can take it out if you can get it out, some take a little bit of work to get it out and grind off the protrusion on the LCI and put it back in and you are good to go with it.
Thanks for the info bubba. The only issue I have with the pistol is re-assembly and the magazine release. Re-assembly I can learn and maybe get good at...eventually.
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Old 03-27-2019, 09:18 AM
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Just keep the manual handy, read the re-assembly instructions when going to re-assemble the gun, and you won't have a problem.
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Old 03-27-2019, 10:29 AM
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* Hammer Bushing
* VQ Sear
* Kanewolf Slingshoot Mod
* LCI replacement or modify the stock LCI
* TK Trigger

All 3 of my MKIII 22/45s have had this done. WELL worth the money!
Putting the new hammer bushing in does make reassembly a little bit easier because you don't have to keep insertiing and removing a mag in order to pull the trigger to release the hammer (which you do need to do while reassembling ), and your mags will drop free when released.

Your other items are OK but not really needed IMHO.

Last edited by TCBeard; 03-27-2019 at 06:23 PM.
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Old 03-27-2019, 09:21 PM
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Removing the LCI can be a pain with some MKIII 22/45's. A non-threaded pin holds the LCI in the barrel. Some pins will simply fall out with a tap from a rubber mallet on the underside of the barrel and some will slide out using a magnet. Others, particularly on the LITE barrels, will only come out after a long session of profanity, if they come out at all.

If you have a stubborn pin, put a couple drops of Liquid Wrench in the hole where the pin inserts. I use a saturated q-tip to get it in the hole. Let the wrench work for at least 20 minutes, then tap the underside of the barrel on a rubber mallet. The pin should slide out. If it doesn't, repeat with the Liquid Wrench until it does.

I've read where some folks have used a dremel to pull the pin and others have used a stripped bolt puller. The Liquid Wrench is far safer and you won't risk ruining the barrel.

As others have already said, the TK kit won't do anything to make teardown or reassembly any easier, but it will make the gun function a lot better. Good luck.
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Old 03-27-2019, 11:18 PM
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If your plans for the pistol are steel challenge or general plinking, the TK bushing will be okay. But if your plan is any kind of bullseye/target shooting, that bushing will add a noticeable amount of creep to the trigger. You're better off getting a MKII style bushing for having minimum creep.

The big thing is the diameter of the shoulder on the bushing. Most "MKIII" type bushings use a 3/8" shoulder, while the "MKII" style bushings have a 7/16" shoulder. So the MKII bushings limit the depth the sear sits into the hammer notch. The MKIII bushings do nothing for this and it's actually the safety that will limit the engagement depth. You will end up with about an extra 1/16" of creep.
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Old 03-27-2019, 11:19 PM
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[QUOTE=WilCox;11420483]Removing the LCI can be a pain with some MKIII 22/45's. A non-threaded pin holds the LCI in the barrel. Some pins will simply fall out with a tap from a rubber mallet on the underside of the barrel and some will slide out using a magnet. Others, particularly on the LITE barrels, will only come out after a long session of profanity, if they come out at all.

If you have a stubborn pin, put a couple drops of Liquid Wrench in the hole where the pin inserts. I use a saturated q-tip to get it in the hole. Let the wrench work for at least 20 minutes, then tap the underside of the barrel on a rubber mallet. The pin should slide out. If it doesn't, repeat with the Liquid Wrench until it does.

I've read where some folks have used a dremel to pull the pin and others have used a stripped bolt puller. The Liquid Wrench is far safer and you won't risk ruining the barrel.( QUOTE )


Some of the pins seemed to have an adhesive holding them in and those are really a pain to get out. Acetone will work well to get the adhesive loose so the pin will come out easier. It took me at least three tries before I finally got mine out.
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Old 03-28-2019, 10:35 AM
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Try a magnet

I have done a couple of these using a small (1/4")strong magnet. be aware that there is a spring in the LCI that puts tension on the pin so pushing on the outside of the LCI partially relieves this drag on the pin.

QUOTE=bubba68;11420601]
Quote:
Originally Posted by WilCox View Post
Removing the LCI can be a pain with some MKIII 22/45's. A non-threaded pin holds the LCI in the barrel. Some pins will simply fall out with a tap from a rubber mallet on the underside of the barrel and some will slide out using a magnet. Others, particularly on the LITE barrels, will only come out after a long session of profanity, if they come out at all.

If you have a stubborn pin, put a couple drops of Liquid Wrench in the hole where the pin inserts. I use a saturated q-tip to get it in the hole. Let the wrench work for at least 20 minutes, then tap the underside of the barrel on a rubber mallet. The pin should slide out. If it doesn't, repeat with the Liquid Wrench until it does.

I've read where some folks have used a dremel to pull the pin and others have used a stripped bolt puller. The Liquid Wrench is far safer and you won't risk ruining the barrel.( QUOTE )


Some of the pins seemed to have an adhesive holding them in and those are really a pain to get out. Acetone will work well to get the adhesive loose so the pin will come out easier. It took me at least three tries before I finally got mine out.
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  #13  
Old 04-12-2019, 09:19 AM
Flanders
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I put that kit into my MK3.
I wound up putting the original mag release back in because as a lefty the extended one stuck out too far.
Personally, the two best upgrades in the kit are the slingshot and mag disconnect.

However the trigger was still horrible so I put in a sear and adjustable trigger.

Sweet shooter now.
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