Adding scope to 511 without tap+drill: Weaver 42, 43, shoe goo - good plan? - RimfireCentral.com Forums

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  #1  
Old 12-15-2016, 05:31 PM
PubDef

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Adding scope to 511 without tap+drill: Weaver 42, 43, shoe goo - good plan?



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Edit: the result:



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(This Image is Too Large to Be Displayed Within the Post. Click Link to View) (863 kB)

It's too close to the iron sight so I had to shave off some of the scope cover at the bottom to go around the sight screw.
It's slightly close to the bolt handle ... actually it clears the scope just fine IF the indents on the magnification power selector ring are aligned with the bolt (if the wider part of the power selector is pointing toward the bold then the bolt will graze the power selector if pushed all the way up on the release movement.
I believe that would have been eliminated if I used the #43 bases ... I used the slightly lower sitting #16 bases though. As a result I expect I'll get the Weaver High rings will work perfectly though (another $9.50 from amazon). Ordered 'em today.

Initial post:
Father-in-law passed away and I'm going to be using and maintaining his old Remington 511. There are no holes for a scope/mount/base, I'd like to add a scope. I'll be learning to shoot with this rifle.

I've seen several posts that suggest a scope be installed by adhering a mount base rather than drilling and tapping (permanent changes). Many have used JB Weld quick set or Shoe Goo to make a removable mount. People recommend either a uncut length of dovetail base mount from Brownells 080-031-841WB
840-12 Contoured Dovetail Stock
cut to size or Weaver mount 43.

Attach with Shoe Goo or JB Weld quick set expoy by first cleaning with alcohol. Both glues can be fairly easily removed with heat (250 degrees, like a hair drier) but stay attached otherwise because this is only a .22.

Plan
Mounts: Weaver Mounts, 2 X #43 ($4.99 each)
Glue: Shoe Goo black ($6)
Scope: Simmons 511039 3-9x32mm ($34)


I'm happy to be talked into another scope and I know it's rings are not high quality, but this is really just for plinking and learning on.

Is this a good plan for keeping the option of returning the rifle to stock while also getting an affordable scope on it for target practice by a first time owner (myself)?

PS - thanks to Nobody and schutzen-jager on their help with this 511 and this question!
Edit: saw this thread suggesting that it's best to get 2 of the #43 bases rather than a 42 and 43.

Last edited by PubDef; 02-23-2017 at 06:23 PM.
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  #2  
Old 12-15-2016, 05:45 PM
LDThornton

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I'd get it drilled and tapped for a scope. Or get a rifle that is already drilled and tapped. There aren't any reliable shortcuts. Mike says "Do it right the first time".
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Old 12-15-2016, 05:56 PM
PubDef

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Quote:
Originally Posted by LDThornton View Post
I'd get it drilled and tapped for a scope. Or get a rifle that is already drilled and tapped. There aren't any reliable shortcuts. Mike says "Do it right the first time".
Fair enough. Seems several others have been successful with epoxy or adhesives (including Loctite Black Max) so I'm trying to sort the best way to use that method in case I want to return it to original (it's a sentimental piece).

Here are the other threads I've found on this issue:
https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...d.php?t=452573
https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...d.php?t=179308
https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...d.php?t=327286
https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...d.php?t=376350
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  #4  
Old 12-15-2016, 06:51 PM
HUSHKABOOM
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43 fit the receiver and 42 fits the barrel contour. You need 2 of the 43 Weaver bases on the reciever. I have used this method with Loctite black max 380 superglue on a 61 Winchester and it is holding after a few years. No field or hunting use yet though, just target shooting. If you use an inexpensive scope go for it. Use acetone or something similar to degrease the metal and I scuff the scope base with sand paper. If the glue fails you wont be dropping an expensive scope on the concrete!
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Old 12-15-2016, 07:13 PM
1dogdown
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I just did a 511 with the Black max.It's holding up fine.I went with the N2 side mount for a 3/4 scope to keep it period correct.Zorro is by far the,cheapest place to get it.If you would like some pics pm me your # and I can text you some.I just bought a Cz full stock but this 511 has won me over.
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Old 12-15-2016, 07:48 PM
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Have it "Dove Tailed" like the Original 511 X

Jim
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Old 12-15-2016, 08:15 PM
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Yes, most threads here say to use two Weaver #43 bases for the 5teen series. That base does fit, but the Weaver #16 base has the exact same curve radius and is .060" lower. So if you want to get the scope as low as possible, the #16 is the right base to use.

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Old 12-15-2016, 08:20 PM
1dogdown
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Don't dovetail it.Keep it the way it came from the factory.You will just hurt it's value.You want these early models to stay correct.Mine is a 1950.
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Old 12-16-2016, 02:28 PM
PubDef

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Quote:
Originally Posted by HUSHKABOOM View Post
43 fit the receiver and 42 fits the barrel contour. You need 2 of the 43 Weaver bases on the reciever. I have used this method with Loctite black max 380 superglue on a 61 Winchester and it is holding after a few years. No field or hunting use yet though, just target shooting. If you use an inexpensive scope go for it. Use acetone or something similar to degrease the metal and I scuff the scope base with sand paper. If the glue fails you wont be dropping an expensive scope on the concrete!
Target practice and a cheap scope is the plan so thanks.

Planning on 2 of the same mounts on the receiver, but now I'm deciding between the 43 and 16 from Weaver. Would the 16 leave enough space above the original sights with a 3-9x32mm scope?

400 or 600 grip sand paper leave enough of a scuff for the shoe goo or JB weld to adhere to?

Last edited by PubDef; 02-07-2017 at 02:44 PM.
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Old 12-16-2016, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 454ho View Post
Yes, most threads here say to use two Weaver #43 bases for the 5teen series. That base does fit, but the Weaver #16 base has the exact same curve radius and is .060" lower. So if you want to get the scope as low as possible, the #16 is the right base to use.

Does the 16 base leave enough space/clearance for the scope over the original sights to stay in place? I really like you suggestion for the lower profile but would also prefer to leave the original sights in place, thanks!
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Old 12-16-2016, 04:08 PM
HUSHKABOOM
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400 should work. Or whatever you have laying around. Course should be good also.
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Old 12-18-2016, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PubDef View Post
Does the 16 base leave enough space/clearance for the scope over the original sights to stay in place?
Depends entirely on what rings you decide to use. I used Weaver low top mounts that have a saddle height of only .089". These are too low to clear the original sight with a 32mm scope objective. A medium would probably clear.

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Old 12-19-2016, 08:25 PM
PubDef

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Originally Posted by 1dogdown View Post
I just did a 511 with the Black max.It's holding up fine.I went with the N2 side mount for a 3/4 scope to keep it period correct.Zorro is by far the,cheapest place to get it.If you would like some pics pm me your # and I can text you some.I just bought a Cz full stock but this 511 has won me over.
I got the Loctite 380 BlackMax instead of the Shoe Goo. Apparently Black Max is super glue that has rubber fibers in it to allow some flexibility to shocks (while pure superglue / CA has a bond that is easily broken if there's much shock). The Black Max also has Hydroquinone in it (which normal super glue, Ethyl 2-cyanoacrylate, does not have) "to prevent radically induced polymerization over time." I think polymerization is what causes the glue to "set" so I'm not sure what the difference is here, but I've spent too much time in MSDS and google articles about it so I'm just spending the extra $6 for the Loctite 380.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 454ho View Post
Depends entirely on what rings you decide to use. I used Weaver low top mounts that have a saddle height of only .089". These are too low to clear the original sight with a 32mm scope objective. A medium would probably clear.
I ordered the Weaver Quad Lock 1-Inch Medium Detachable Rings for $8 and we'll see if they give enough clearance to leave the iron sights in place. Thanks for the suggestions on that! I'm skeptical that'll be enough clearance to keep the sights on but we'll see. If not I may try the UTG AccuShot Picatinny/Weaver Medium Profile 2-piece 1-inch Rings for the added clearance and ability to see the iron sights.
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Old 12-23-2016, 12:30 PM
PubDef

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Straight and centered when using adhesive / loctite black max?

I have all the parts now (loctite black max, 2 x #16 weaver bases, 2 medium weaver mounts, and the scope). However, I'm not certain how to install the bases accurately in the center and straight. The advice I've seen on rimfirecenteral was here:
Glue some weaver #43 (or #16 for lower profile) blocks to the receiver with Loctite BlackMax.
Mount rings to the scope,
then the mounts to the rings,
using the scope to align it all straight.
then glue to receiver

But I don't think Ralfus means for me to just eyeball it when it comes to getting the mounts centered on the receiver. My plan for a centered install is:
* measure and mark the base locations with the scope/rings/mounts/bases attached to each other,
* make sure it's an equal distance from a common point on each side,
* With 400 grit sandpaper scuff the bases (but not the receiver),
* Clean surfaces with acetone and let dry,
* Apply Loctite to the bases and hold them in place while setting for a minute or so.

But I expect you folks have some recommendations to improve on that plan because I don't have much experience with this at all. Please let me know if and how to adjust my approach, thanks!

Last edited by PubDef; 12-24-2016 at 12:53 PM.
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  #15  
Old 12-23-2016, 12:37 PM
KKG515
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You need to consider the fact that glue will loose its ability to hold as it gets warm. So, after the shooting is over be careful that the scope doesn't end up falling on the floor!

I say drill and tap is the proper way to go.
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