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  #46  
Old 05-25-2021, 09:32 AM
FuzzyVision

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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeMyers View Post

(If ML and SH refer to the grip angle on the gun, and if someone wanted to compete in Bullseye Competition, what reason might there be for wanting the HS with the more angled grip? I would think that people would want the "feel" to be more like a 1911??)

ML and SH are serial number prefixes that identify a particular era in H-S manufacturing history. Specifically, the move from Camden to East Hartford. The ML range of serial numbers originate from just prior to that move. The SH serials followed, but both are indiciative of some cost cutting changes in the manufacturing process. The typical "large pushbutton" take down mechanism was replaced by a socket cap screw barrel attachment on the SH guns.

This period is sometimes defined by a notable decrease in fit and finish. Even so, guns with the ML serial number range are typically reported to be good shooters, and accurate. Collectors tend to draw a cut-off in desirability and value just prior to the ML guns. So these later guns can often be had at a relative bargain compared to the earlier ones. SH guns are near the bottom of desirability, but still above the Stoeger and Mitchell guns made "in the style of" the classic High Standard target pistols.
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  #47  
Old 05-25-2021, 11:21 AM
MikeMyers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FuzzyVision View Post
......the move from Camden to East Hartford. The ML range of serial numbers originate from just prior to that move........guns with the ML serial number range are typically reported to be good shooters, and accurate. Collectors tend to draw a cut-off in desirability and value just prior to the ML guns. So these later guns can often be had at a relative bargain compared to the earlier ones.....
Fascinating! My Victor is S/N ML 30788. Roddy Toyota told me the gun I bought from him isn't really "collectable", but it was an excellent "shooter". I still have his original email somewhere. I paid attention to the "shooting" comments, and ignored the "collectable" comments, but I guess this is a good reason not to drill a hole in the slide for the "Slide Racker" I bought from Alan (which is on my X-Series gun).

My Victor came with a 4.5" long barrel. That's a bonus for me, as it is lighter. I wonder what barrel is on the gun the OP started this thread about.


I know he is reading this thread now. If so, maybe he can do a test, and post the results here. Load a magazine with five rounds, better yet, "dummy rounds" from Amazon, and manually cycle them through the gun, noting where the round ended up when the gun jammed.
https://www.amazon.com/Zoom-6-Pack-P...1960050&sr=8-1

From my "reverse engineering" of the instructions I was given, if the round ended up way up high, above the chamber, the two rear lips need to be bent inwards, a tiny amount at a time. Maybe it will take a few attempts, maybe dozens, but eventually the round will start hitting lower and lower above the chamber. A tiny amount more, and the round will go into the chamber, and get stuck somewhere. A tiny amount more, and the round will go all the way into the chamber. If the magazine works for ten rounds in a row, it is probably fixed, and if it jams even the tiniest amount, it needs just a tiny amount of additional bending the lips inwards.

For the OP - if you haven't yet bought a tool, buy one from Alan Aronstein at www.FirearmsIntl.com. (713) 476-0888 Veronica will answer the phone, and she will know what you need, and just ask her to include a copy of the instructions (which are also described in detail in other posts in this forum). Just have patience - take your time. I sat on my bed running dummy rounds through my gun for well over an hour, and using the tool just a small amount more strongly each time, before I got the magazine to work smoothly. (The guys in this forum can probably do it in five minutes or less.). I'm no machinist - if I can do it, anyone can do it.

Last edited by MikeMyers; 05-25-2021 at 11:28 AM.
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  #48  
Old 05-25-2021, 12:28 PM
RodJ

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I’ve been reading with some interest and have two pennies to add to the pile.

First, if you spend some time with dummy rounds and watch the slide as it moves forward (using your hands to make it move slow) and catches the cartridge, you can slowwwwwly let the slide move forward and the round begin to move, you can see exactly how the wide cartridge rim is held down by the rear pair of feed lips. Eventually the cartridge body will have slid forward enough that the nose tips upward (sort of “pops” up at a balance point) and is now aiming toward the barrel breach. At a similar point, watch how the case rim at the back starts sliding up the face of the slide UNDER the extractor. And continue watching the interplay. From moving forward, tipping up like a seesaw, the rear then sliding up and leveling out, and the nose of the bullet angling and moving into (hopefully) the barrel bore.

Do that a few times. So it some more. Eventually you will see how the feed lips affect the angle and leveling out of the cartridge to get it to chamber properly. Once you do, you will suddenly have an epiphany and begin to understand how the rear pair of lips need to be adjusted. And the front ones might need a touch too. But those rear pair do most of the work. The front pair just need to be open just barely enough so the cartridge body isn’t impaired when it hits the tipping point and pops into an angle. As the slide moves further forward the rear feed lips let go and the cartridge rim finishes sliding up onto the slide face and the cartridge levels out and goes right in.

Start with a nominally adjusted pair of front and rear feed lips. And assuming the breach is clean, the slide face and extractor are clean and not screwed up so they don’t impair the cartridge rim in its journey, THEN just the smallest of micro adjustments in or out on the rear lips to get that tip up point right and it should be easy to get it feeding right.

Just study it in slow motion and watch what is happening. It will suddenly seem easy.

Hope that helps someone.
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