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  #31  
Old 05-07-2021, 07:34 PM
joe45c
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paulsell View Post
Very nice! Is the lever color cased or blued?
I think in the case of my 1897 i think it was. but i actually have to look at it again. i can't remember.
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  #32  
Old 05-07-2021, 10:11 PM
vepr762
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paulsell View Post
The Marlin 1891 .22s had case hardened bolts early on, as did the early Marlin 1894s.
The 1891 side loader and 2nd variation 1891 had a blued bolt as standard. All centerfire lever actions (Models 1881-1895) had blued bolts as standard, with the exception of the 1893 (later the 1936,and prewar 36) and the 1895 having a case colored bolt.

https://www.merzantiques.com/product...891-1st-model/


Marlin did case color the hammer through almost the entire 1897 production. If a case colored hammer was a weak point, then why did S&W continue it on their blued revolvers through the late 20th century?

I am real curious where you acquired your Marlin information?


****

Last edited by vepr762; 05-08-2021 at 09:33 AM.
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  #33  
Old 05-08-2021, 03:27 PM
Paulsell

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When researching for my project I saw that hammers were color cased or blued. Either is correct. I made my choice based, in part, on what I have learned about case hardening - it can make hammer notches brittle. There is a wide range of hardness and color based on the process employed. Colt advised me against color case on the hammer of a custom SAA if I intended to shoot it. Some color case processes do not actually harden or make parts brittle. Those methods are applied only for appearance. Perhaps that is what S&W was doing.

The 39A hammer has a different profile than that of the 1897. Color cased or not, it does not look like the original hammer. But that's okay, I was not trying to create an 1897 clone. I wanted to replicate the overall appearance and graceful contour of the '97 using modern components. I could have paid less for an original '97 in fine condition. I did not want a collector's item or museum piece. I did not want to chance a cracked bolt if a previous owner had been firing MiniMags. I wanted shooter. And thanks to Allen, it's a fine shooter as well as a very fine piece of work!
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  #34  
Old 05-08-2021, 04:59 PM
vepr762
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paulsell View Post
When researching for my project I saw that hammers were color cased or blued. Either is correct. I made my choice based, in part, on what I have learned about case hardening - it can make hammer notches brittle. There is a wide range of hardness and color based on the process employed. Colt advised me against color case on the hammer of a custom SAA if I intended to shoot it. Some color case processes do not actually harden or make parts brittle. Those methods are applied only for appearance. Perhaps that is what S&W was doing.

The 39A hammer has a different profile than that of the 1897. Color cased or not, it does not look like the original hammer. But that's okay, I was not trying to create an 1897 clone. I wanted to replicate the overall appearance and graceful contour of the '97 using modern components. I could have paid less for an original '97 in fine condition. I did not want a collector's item or museum piece. I did not want to chance a cracked bolt if a previous owner had been firing MiniMags. I wanted shooter. And thanks to Allen, it's a fine shooter as well as a very fine piece of work!
Mr Springer does excellent work. Enjoy it!
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  #35  
Old 05-26-2021, 03:21 PM
Green Frog
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My 39M Octagon has suffered the effects of about 20+ years of neglect, but is still waiting around like a faithful old dog waiting for a trip to the range. The last time it had an outing was about 5-6 years ago when I loaned it to my 7 year old grand nephew to shoot a Kids' Match at our local gun club. He finished dead last, but the gun worked like a champ and he had a grand time.

Froggie
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