That's very strange. Did they say why not?
Ruger sold me new firing pins for my MKII, MKIII, and MKIV. All they needed was the serial number for each one to sell them to me.
I think the OP got the stock Mark I answer: Ruger is not supporting them any more. The fact that, AFAIK, the firing pin is identical to the Mark II and III firing pins is irrelevant. Brownells doesn't ask for a serial number:
This is not a drop in part. That is why River wanted to install it. You need to check that it doesn't exceed the proper length and end up putting a dent in the chamber rim
I did modify the new pin to give it the correct amount of protrusion.
Of 50 rounds , 21 didnt fire. All fired on the 2nd try. The tip of the pin is under size.
Waste of $ on this one.
The oal of the new pin is shorter, adding to the problem.
Not sure if new pin is of Ruger manufacture?
The old orginal pin i modified , had 1 misfire out of 50.
Making the tip of the pin smaller concentrates the energy it has into a smaller area, resulting in deeper strikes. But at least now we know what you're trying to accomplish with replacing the FP. You're suffering from excessive FTFires - even with your old pin.
The oal of the new pin is shorter, adding to the problem.
These new Ruger pins work fine for thousands of people. I don't think your problem is being caused by your firing pin at all. Most likely, your chamber has a bad case of carbon ring or maybe your main spring has gotten weak. It's also possible that your bolt has excessive head space.
Have you measured your head space? What is the protrusion length of a new, unmodified pin? Have you tried borrowing a main spring from another pistol that doesn't have problems crushing rims? Can you post a pic of the hit on a failed-to-fire round?
I wasn't sure from your earlier post if you were trying to improve accuracy, or reliability. Please help us to help you here.
The aftermarket pins oal are 1.870" & 1.871" The protrusion is on the short side, almost not making contact with the ammo rim as they came new. The pin tip that makes contact with the round is undersize.
My old original pin oal is 1.875" with good protrusion and a pin tip with more striking area. Its been modified for protrusion & the tip height trimmed to not contact the solid part of the case rim.
The short answer is, avoid buying the Reproduction pin.
The Volquartsen pin and all the Ruger pins I have gotten were all 1.875" OAL. I haven't gotten any from Tandemkross or Majestic Arms, but they should all be made to match the Ruger OEM part spec.
I don't know who made the pins you got from gunpartscorp, but TK is the only one I know of that narrows down the tip like Ruger has done to their MKIV pins.
Still, your original (modified) pin that you said "has been working ok" is producing a 1/50 failure rate. That tells me you have another problem you need to address. A more normal failure rate (depending on ammo) is 1/500 to 1/1000.
My MKII originally had a 1/20 failure rate and I found the headspace was well above SAAMI spec. Once that problem was corrected, the failures dropped into the normal range. Your problem may be the same, or different. But it's not going to get much better until you investigate and find the source.
Installed new Ruger firing pin from Brownells, along with recoil spring, firing pin stop, rebound spring support & spring.
Test fired with same lot of federal. Still have misfires & 2 new stove pipes.
Have been using Safariland Breakfree CLP since running out of the original.
Then i remembered 2 problems i had before with CLP. It acted like glue on my 2 Citori extractors. My S&W cylinder turned hard on a new 38, M337PD. CLP made it worse.
Both problems were solved by applying WD 40. I used WD40 in the shop on sticky guns before.
So, i spray the MK 1 WITH WD40. .Work the action & letting it soak. Fired 90 rounds of the Federal over 3 different trips to the range. No problems, gun works perfect.
The last trip today i also fired 40 rounds of CCI Standard Velocity. No misfires. But 1 failure to pick a round out of the magazine & 1 fired case stayed on the bolt face & went back into the chamber. This is a sign of light recoil not pushing the bolt back fully.
The housing that contains the main spring may be worn or its gummed up with dry CLP? In my experence the springs are extra strong. So i feel its not a weak mainspring.
So if your auto loader is not running right, try a degreaser or penetrating oils. I use WD 40.
The winter freeze is back. Waiting for spring now.
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