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  #1  
Old 08-24-2011, 12:53 PM
AzizaVFR
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Updated inletting template for the Biathlon, Completed



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The need to update the template has been driven by a current project. The previous version was a little too crude and did not provide enough information for the depths for the trigger guard and escutcheons. Here is the latest version in PDF. When you print it, use the best quality and no scaling. There is also a 1.000" bar in the lower left corner for size verification.

Izhmash Biathlon inletting, v1.2

The escutcheons can be made from any material you see fit. I have made them from aluminum in a previous build.

Part of the new project....

Last edited by AzizaVFR; 09-01-2012 at 12:41 AM. Reason: Project has been completed
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Old 08-26-2011, 06:21 AM
AzizaVFR
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Now with pictures

Now for an update. The drawing I placed before was put to the test. Unlike my previous project involving a Biathlon Basic, this is going to be a little different. I am starting with a blank from Boyd's, and starting the carving from that point.

As the blanks come from Boyd's, they have quite a bit of material to work with.


For the shape in mind, I had to remove about a 1/4" from the thickness from the material. At this time, I do not have a nice planer nor jointer. I have to rely on the Jet and used a fly cutter to slice a layer off at time.


I do like the fly cutter. It is inexpensive, uses standard tool bits and the cutting edge is only limited by my grinding imagination. The huge downside is how much it makes a mess. It throws the chips and shavings everywhere. If you work with a good deal of wood or metal, you owe it to yourself to get one of these to keep your shopvac from choking the filter prematurely.


Once the thickness of 2.000" was achieved, the pattern was traced and then rough cut on the bandsaw. Back to the computer to get the template printed and glued to the top surface, locating where the action will be placed. When applying the template, align the action screws with the centerline of your workpiece. Make sure the top is parallel to your work table, lock the Y-axes on the centerline, then center drill and use a 0.250" to make the holes for the action screws. While you have the Y-axis locked, use a drill (1/2" Forstner in my case) to drill out the mass majority of the material from the magazine well.




After drilling, you will need a 1/2" dia x2.5" long straight router/endmill to finish the contour of the large internal section. The area for the safety is 1.3" deep from the top edge and cut with the same tool.


For the next three operations will require three different cutters. The flat areas I used a .250" endmill to create the square pockets around the actions screws, then countersunk the front hole .500" deep with a 3/8" endmill. The sides were contoured with a 1" ball endmill giving plenty of clearance for the action. For the barrel channel, a .934" (15/16") ball endmill created the needed clearance. This concludes all the cuts needed for the top surface.

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Old 08-26-2011, 06:39 AM
AzizaVFR
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The triggerguard and its challenges

With the top completed, it is now time to turn the attention to the bottom of the action area. All the distances denoted in the drawing reference the top of the stock as the reference point. In my case, it was placed on the surface of the vice, serving as my zero point. If you use it in this manner, you can work with any thickness of stock and achieve the same results.

The hardest thing to do is get the rear action screw and trigger guard escutcheons pockets cut due to the clearance between and the grip area. The solution for myself were two extra long Forstner bits in 3/8" and 5/8". Once those were complete, the rear area behind the trigger screw needed to be curved to allow the guard to seat properly. It may look like the guard is sank too far into the stock. It is that way on purpose, to allow for more sculpting to take place later.



At this point, all the milling for the action has been completed. The attention was turned to the lathe to make the escutcheons from aluminum for the action screws and brass to work with the trigger guard screw.


Here are the completed components, including the new toggle paddle, the escutcheons, and the full length scope rail.


The only thing left involving the action is to get it bedded with either AcraGlas or Devcon. I will do that before I start shaping the rest of the stock.

Last edited by AzizaVFR; 08-26-2011 at 05:25 PM. Reason: Corrected final picture
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Old 08-26-2011, 12:04 PM
mudd turtle
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Fantastic Work my man. The project looks like it is comeing along as planned. Mudd turtle.
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Old 08-26-2011, 05:18 PM
RET
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Nice....................

I will be beginning one of these stocks in the fall for my 7-2 and am watching for good ideas to incorporate into my design!
I noticed the comb height.... you plan on an adjustable one?

I miss having a lathe, mill, other great tools.

ret

Last edited by RET; 08-27-2011 at 08:12 AM.
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Old 09-10-2011, 06:59 AM
AzizaVFR
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Ret, the plan is to make the comb adjustable. I am still thinking of how to do it where no tools will be involved or spacers to lose.

I was able to get some work done on this stock, after the rains came, knocked 20 degrees off the ambient temperature, and the power was restored.

The action has been bedded, along with escutcheons.



Following Ret's tips on stock shaping, the files and course sandpaper were used. The forearm area is tapered toward the barrel, and the sides are perpendicular to the bottom. An interesting occurance is how the colors are opposite on each side. The center of the stock happens to fall on a glue line, giving this affect.




The buttstock area was thinned compared to the forearm and the grip area initially contoured.



Full side views



There will be much more dust to make.
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Old 09-10-2011, 07:08 AM
Joe D
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Looking good. I have got to get a knee mill. When I retired and moved I lost my access to a complete machine shop at the plant I ran. I really miss the wire EDM.
I bought a couple of large off shore vertical mills for the shop thinking they would wear out in a few years and we would just toss them and buy more. 12 years later they are still going strong. The best money spent was DROs.
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Old 09-10-2011, 09:51 AM
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Looks like another cool stock project.

Swiss
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Old 09-10-2011, 10:18 AM
RET
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This is great work.

Repeat.

ret
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Old 09-12-2011, 02:36 PM
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Now THAT's nice work!!!
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Old 09-18-2011, 12:56 AM
AzizaVFR
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A little more work complete this SV-99 replica. Today was making the hardware needed for two of the three moveable pieces. I got the components made for the adjustable cheek rest and the monopod. Here is a line-up of the items.



From the left: Monopod and sleeve, retaining screw for monopod, aluminum sleeves for cheek rest along with the screws and plastic nuts.

The monopod cavity was drilled with a 0.625" bit by 3.75" deep. The pod consist of five parts: the 0.624" outer sleeve bored 0.375" then cuts with a 0.125" endmill for a retaining channel, plus keeps it from rotating. The bottom is 0.835" in diameter. For the bottom, a piece of teflon was machined on the foot giving it a gliding surface.



The cheek piece has the threaded sockets inserted, along with the sleeves in the stock, retained by the plastic nuts. I was also able to put the bevels on the bottom of the stock to give it a more narrow profile on the bottom.



From here, I need to make the rear adjustable buttplate, cut height adapters for the cheek piece, and set the length of pull to 13.5". More dusk and aluminum chips to follow.
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Old 09-18-2011, 10:35 AM
mudd turtle
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Simply awsome. fantastic work. Could you list what is left to do to your rifle before it is finished. Mudd Turtle.
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Old 09-18-2011, 05:24 PM
riggins
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Websters dictionary

defines the word craftsman as:

1. a person who practices or is highly skilled in a craft; artisan.

This definition sir is YOU!

Can't wait to see how the final stock turns out.
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Old 09-22-2011, 02:13 AM
AzizaVFR
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A bit more work was accomplished today, between concalls and other work related items. With the cheek piece and monopod completed, time to turn the attention to the buttplate. It starts with two piece of 1/2" plate aluminum 1.63" wide and 5.5" long. Both pieces were squared then a 60 degree dovetail groove 0.860" wide and 0.100" deep was milled into the thicker piece which will attached to the stock. The moving piece was relieved to provide the male component of the dovetail.





Now through the magic of the Internet, several hours have past since those photos were taking, with quite a few cutting operation to the two aluminum plate. In addition, a set of threaded inserts to be installed in the stock allowing for the rear plate to be removed and the delrin spacers to be added to adjust the length of pull. There are six 1/4" spacers and two 3/8". They can be used either with the buttpad, or with the cheek rest.



The red rectangle will be the shock absorbing pad on the end. Instead of something black and usual for the end, I found some 1/2" thick dense rubber pad with embossed red stars. Seems perfectly fitting on a Russian made rifle.



The plates have been highly relieved to reduce the overall weight of the components. Total weight for everything shown is 9.75oz. That is enough for today. Tomorrow brings lots of customer calls, along with adapters to be mailed.
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Old 09-23-2011, 11:52 PM
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Excellent work, very well thought out and the process was presented so others got a very good idea of what you did to end up with such a great, custom one of a kind stock.

I too am looking forward to seeing the end result.

Like another, I really miss my mill and lathe. I do still have a planer, but the driving distance would have been a little long for a loan.

You are going to wear that shop vac out, all the clean up between pictures, but I have the feeling you would have vac'ed it anyway, always nice to work on a clean piece, especially if you want to see exactly what you are doing.

My best, John K
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