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Old 03-18-2019, 09:10 AM
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I'm confused



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I have built and shot a number custom Ruger 10/22 over many years. I have found that when (not if) the guns start having failures to eject the cause was the extractor was worn and needed replaced. Just built a new one using a Walther barrel, bedded Anschutz 54MS type of stock, KIDD trigger, CPC bolt and am shooting RWS R50.

Now the quandary:

When I first built this barrelled action/barrel years ago I put it in a Ruger 10/22T stock. I had NO failures to eject.

I have now put the above barrelled action/barrel into the new stock and bedded it. I am having about 10% failures to eject. I inspected the ejection port area and saw NO incursions by the stock into this area. The failures to eject are the Ruger "normal" stove piping cases. I have replaced the ejector with a new one and spring. with no improvement in stove piping.

I thought I was very competent with these actions and how they work, but with this rifle I can use some help. I'm wanting to use this rifle in timed precision tactical matches but due to the high percent of jams I can't do it until I can get this problem sorted out. I have swapped the barreled action back into the 10/22T stock and the failures to eject stopped, but returned when the new stock and the jams are back.

Obviously the problem stems form the bedding and fit with the new stock but I can't see the cause. I need the new stock to get a proper cheek weld.

Last edited by Travelor; 03-18-2019 at 09:21 AM.
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Old 03-18-2019, 09:42 AM
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My guess and I do mean guess is you have a pressure point that is binding the action. Have you played with the torque?
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Old 03-18-2019, 10:04 AM
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did you try the new stock before you bedded it?
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Old 03-18-2019, 10:09 AM
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Also check for hammer strut clearance, most have to travel past the trigger group housing.
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Old 03-18-2019, 10:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCP Phx View Post
Also check for hammer strut clearance, most have to travel past the trigger group housing.
That, and clearance on each side of the magazine ( not touching the stock ) would be my first checks.
I use a piece of business card ( about .013 ) to check each side of mag well.
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Old 03-19-2019, 01:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCP Phx View Post
Also check for hammer strut clearance, most have to travel past the trigger group housing.
This is possible, But when I’ve seen this problem (more than once) in the past, it certainly caused more than 10% FTEs,
Still- When installing a Kidd single stage, it is always prudent to check for clearance of the hammer strut and drill a little little divot behind the trigger group and to ensure that there will be no problem there.





Quote:
Originally Posted by Hawkeye57 View Post
That, and clearance on each side of the magazine ( not touching the stock ) would be my first checks.
I use a piece of business card ( about .013 ) to check each side of mag well.
This. Unless you did a really BAD Job at pillar bedding the rifle, and induced so much stress that you torqued or stressed something (highly unlikely) then the likely cause is how either the trigger group or magazine is seating in the stock and interacting with the receiver.

FIRST, I would put the action into a different stock first, then test.

If you are using 25 round magazine’s, it is likely contact between the magazine and stock changing feed angle. You might need to create clearance for your 25 rounders to move more freely. BX10 magazines can also be affected in the same way, but usually not as much as the 25s IME.

Also- If you are using original Ruger pins to hold the trigger group to the receiver, there is play and movement between the trigger group and receiver. The ledge that articulates with the back of the trigger group at the rear of the inletting can induce stress on the trigger group and change its position relative to the bolt which can bind up bolt travel and slow timing of the rifle. That relative motion is one of the variables I always remove in a build by using Kidd trigger pins with their countersunk funnel head Allen screws which connect the trigger group to the receiver with a solid connection.

Obviously relieving stress on the magazines is the simplest fix and what I would work on first as it is easy to stand out a little space for freedom of movement without any cosmetic damage.

Let us know what you find-

DrGunner
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Last edited by DrGunner; 03-19-2019 at 01:53 AM.
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