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  #16  
Old 02-06-2017, 11:58 PM
Hfrog355

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Indigo22 View Post
Nope wasn't you... He just won't touch anything with TK in it with a 10 foot pole. Allergies I guess.
Do you have a VQ bolt in it or is it a stock Ruger bolt? Is the disconnector bent? What does the bottom of the bolt look like?
Try putting your stock disconnector back in, or compare them side by side for something out of place.
Not in hand and only two pictures make it difficult to figure out.

It's a stock Ruger bolt. I don't think the disconnector is bent. Should it be? The bottom of the bolt looks ok, I guess. Maybe rubbed a little bit, but the bolt has seen several thousand rounds.

I didn't have time to put the stock connector in tonight, but I'll give that a go later in the week.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Test_Engineer View Post
The damage on the front of the disconnector came from the bolt. Most likely because the disconnector wasn't fully up when the next round was fired. The peened material then makes it harder for the disconnector to move up, AND gives the bolt a longer run to hit it on the next shot. It's a problem that builds on itself, once started. The disconnector should be replaced.

From your pictures, it looks like the damage is on the upper - not on the frame. And the damage there lines up with the damage on the top of the disconnector.

There are multiple things that can lead to all that damage, so you should check them all before you just repeat the problem.

These are some of the things I would consider:

1) If you put in a new trigger and used the spring that came with it, I'd put the original Ruger spring back in. At least the VQ trigger spring is a reduced power spring.

2) If you don't use a blast shield. I would consider adding one. It helps to keep the trigger plunger clean so it can move freely. BPatza (an RFC sponsor) sells premade ones if you don't think you can make one.

3) I would carefully check over the bolt. As SGW mentioned, there may be a burr. You would want to remove the burr, but no more material then that.

4) I would grind/file/sand the damaged area on the upper. Shouldn't hurt it, and it will provide more clearance for the disconnector.

5) I would check how the bushing fits across the frame. It's shoulder should hold the disconnector close to the frame (without binding). If the bushing tube is too short, it can slide left on the hammer pin and allow the disconnector to be too close to center. A small shim between the bushing and safety may help, or you may consider trying a different bushing.

I hope these suggestions help.
TE
Correct, the damage is on the upper, not the frame. Got my terminology mixed up.

1. I had put the Ruger spring back in just a little while ago. The damage was already a problem before and didn't get better after. I find the reset with the stock spring to be much more solid.
2. I don't know anything about a blast shield. I'll look into it.
3. I don't see any burrs or other imperfections on the bolt.
4. Yeah, I'm going to do some light dremel work on the frame and disconnector to see if I can smooth it out. Hopefully the parts have worn themselves in enough by this point that the damage is done? FWIW, the gun functions fine, but this certainly doesn't look good and can't be beneficial for the long term. I only really got concerned when it started chewing up the TacSol upper which is the newest part.


Quote:
Originally Posted by KTGunsmithing View Post
I have 2 22/45 Lites with the VQ disconnector, VQ MKII bushing and VQ MKII hammer. They did the same thing. Stone the disconnector smooth. Stone it down to remove the beat in "dip" and get something approximating its' original contour. Stone what "bulged out" so it's the original thickness. Go shoot your gun. Check and repeat (if necessary) the next time you have the upper off.
I think this is what I'm going to try next.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SGW Gunsmith View Post
No sir, absolutely not. Yours is a story that's told way too often. I know what's wrong, but it just doesn't seem to get fixed because nobody wants to fix it. Sorry that you were a victim as others around here have been.
If you've got ideas, I'm all ears. It's why I'm here. PM is fine if you don't want to start a war...

Quote:
Originally Posted by JStacy View Post
Looking at your pictures your disconnector is being beat up by the bolt because it cant get down and out of the way when the bolt comes back. You can also see some compression damage on the bottom to the disconnector below the upper damage . This is caused by the hammer bushing not allowing the disconnector enough travel . You just have some part that do not work together and possibly because they are out of specs to a significant degree.

"Yes. It's a Tandemkross bushing". I think you have found the problem.
In addition to cleaning up the disconnector, I'm going to give the VQ part a whirl.

Last edited by Hfrog355; 02-07-2017 at 12:00 AM.
  #17  
Old 02-07-2017, 02:32 AM
Test_Engineer

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It's true that you can "stone the damaged disconnector smooth" and it will continue to function. But I would still recommend replacing it.

The reason why is that the disconnector serves 2 purposes. The first is to prevent "Full Auto" function. You must release the trigger and pull it again to fire an additional round. The second purpose it to limit how far the bolt can be open, should an OOB discharge occur.

I tested this second function a year or so ago. I found that with an undamaged disconnector, the maximum the bolt can be open and still drop the hammer is about 0.100". Whatever amount of material gets removed from the face of the disconnector adds to this maximum by the same amount. So if you have just 0.025" of damage and you stone this all flat, your bolt will then be able to be open 0.125" and still release the hammer. (The damage itself will cause an increase. Stoning may just add more.)

I've never had an OOB discharge occur on any of my guns, and I regularly make an effort to inspect for carbon ring in the chamber. But there's always a chance that a bent bullet, dented brass, or something else could cause an OOB to happen. If it should, I want to guarantee the bolt will be closed as much as possible to minimize how much shrapnel comes out the ejection port.

Do what you feel is best for you.
  #18  
Old 02-07-2017, 09:10 AM
KTGunsmithing
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Test_Engineer View Post
I tested this second function a year or so ago. I found that with an undamaged disconnector, the maximum the bolt can be open and still drop the hammer is about 0.100". Whatever amount of material gets removed from the face of the disconnector adds to this maximum by the same amount. So if you have just 0.025" of damage and you stone this all flat, your bolt will then be able to be open 0.125" and still release the hammer. (The damage itself will cause an increase. Stoning may just add more.)
Too bad you didn't try this with a VQ disconnector (which is what this thread is about) then you'd know this doesn't apply because the VQ and Ruger disconnectors are not the same dimensionally.

"the maximum the bolt can be open and still drop the hammer is about 0.100"" OK, but that's the same as I what I'm seeing with my "stoned 'til they don't develop a divot" VQ disconnectors.

Last edited by KTGunsmithing; 02-07-2017 at 09:32 AM.
  #19  
Old 02-07-2017, 10:43 AM
Hfrog355

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Sheesh, this Tandemkross thing is really a hot topic. Never knew they were so polarizing.
  #20  
Old 02-07-2017, 11:08 AM
JStacy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KTGunsmithing View Post
Then why have my 22/45 Lites done the same thing using a VQ MKII bushing? Is that TKs' fault too? Maybe because I use their +1 mag bases?
Keep on drinking the cool aide if it makes you happy.
  #21  
Old 02-07-2017, 02:43 PM
SGW Gunsmith
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hfrog355 View Post
If you've got ideas, I'm all ears. It's why I'm here. PM is fine if you don't want to start a war...
No..............wars are what those others try to start! PM sent.
  #22  
Old 02-08-2017, 01:06 AM
JStacy
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"When you have nothing constructive or meaningful to add to the conversation (or the discussion simply exceeds your pay grade) and you're just here to bash a vender you post things like this:"


not bashing the vendor just pointing out that there have been other post about the KT bushing not functioning well with the VQ disconnector.
You might want to learn to spell "vendor" also but you probably only rose above a grunt anyway so that would be expected.
But like I said rave on you do not cast a shadow.

Last edited by JStacy; 02-08-2017 at 01:11 AM.
  #23  
Old 02-08-2017, 09:57 AM
JStacy
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Just another TK shill.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KTGunsmithing View Post
You choose to ignore the fact that I'm seeing the same issue using the VQ disconnector with VQ MKII hammer bushing. I guess that doesn't fit your preconceived agenda.

"KT bushing"? Would that include you in the "probably only rose above a grunt anyway so that would be expected"? But that is to be expected when rather than share 1st hand experience you only mindlessly parrot what you think you may remember reading. I'm sure there were many posts about using "KT bushings" with VQ disconnectors.
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