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HOW TO make GUNNER TOOLS

77K views 138 replies 47 participants last post by  darthpaper75 
#1 · (Edited)
Hello all- I have been making my own cleaning tools for years- mostly for .22 rimfire, but more recently for other calibers including centerfires. I have given away countless tools to RFC members and have been asked many times HOW I make them. These tools are great because they can be packed into a range bag easily, do an excellent job of cleaning the bore, and allow you to clean most rifles and pistols WITHOUT disassembly. They are durable and last for years.

I have decided to post a series of chapters here, in this thread in the shooting accessories forum, explaining how to make them in detail, step by step with plenty of pictures.

GUNNER TOOLS

I make four different tools:

The Gunner Patchsnake is a typical button style puller. I have experimented with many different types of trimmer line and have found this stuff to work best:



All you do is spike it through a cloth patch, pass it through the barrel from the breech, and pull it through (make sure the button is centered in the chamber before pulling). I make the buttons oversize, because no two barrels are identical. Shaping them is an easy job that can be done with a draw file or emery board.
You can shape the button for a loose fit to clean solvent/powder/sludge from the bore with low friction. You can also size them larger for a tight fit to clean the rifling- lands and grooves:






The Gunner Jagsnake- this allows you to apply powder solvent and/or copper solvent and oil/lube to the bore with minimal friction:




The Gunner Brushsnake: this allows you to brush most bores without disassembling the rifle. For .22s, it MUST be made from the Otis brushes listed below, because they are the only ones that allow a deep enough drill hole, and the brass sticks best to the cyanomethacrylate glue I use. For other calibers, any brush will work, but the ones made of brass hold up best. Aluminum does work, provided that the drill hole is deep enough to allow adequate surface area for the adhesive.
I don't use them on my target barrels, but they work great on my .22s that see bulk/copper washed ammo. I recently made one for 7.62mm and its working out fine- you just need to remember to let the trimmer line twist as you pull so the brush follows the rifling.
They can be made for any caliber.




The Gunner Chamber Brush- I designed this brush handle with a finger loop in the center that you place your middle finger or ring finger through. It provides excellent control and leverage for cleaning the carbon ring from the leade of the chamber without getting into the rifling. Attaching a chamber mop to the other end allows you to remove the majority of the sludge from the chamber before using the Jagsnake, Brushsnake, and Patchsnake.






I will add to this thread with four separate "chapters" on each of these over the next few days walking you through how to make all four of these tools.
They are made of .095" trimmer line, Hoppes .22cal jags, Otis .22cal pistol brushes, and the brush handles are made out of 3 piece Hoppes rod kits. One kit costs $9, and can make 3 brush handles IF the aluminum is solid- sometimes they fall apart because of impurities in the rod stock. When that happens, I usually salvage the parts into two straight handles or a short finger loop version:




Here are the jags, about $1-2 apiece:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-list...w?ie=UTF8&condition=new&qid=1362970092&sr=1-5

I use Otis Pistol brushes- they are the perfect length for cleaning the chamber of a 22LR and removing the dreaded carbon ring that builds up at the end of the casings, without getting into the rifling. They come packaged in individual cases that can be modified to protect the brushes during storage or transport in your range bag:





Here are the brushes, they cost $11-13 for 10:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-list...w?ie=UTF8&condition=new&qid=1364970606&sr=1-1

If you want to make chamber brush handles, order THIS KIT for $9 and you can make three handles and one .22cal and one larger caliber jag puller:

http://www.amazon.com/Hoppes-Rifle-...62970092&sr=1-18&keywords=Hoppes+cleaning+rod

Over the next few days I will add to this thread with detailed instructions and pics on how to make each of the four tools listed above.

Regards-

DrGunner
 
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#30 ·
i use the adjustable caps off of silicone or tub calk - i put hole in center of cone so that trimmer line will fit , then i trim larger part of cone to required bore size - i also use shorter lenghts of line for pistol use - i also have a few that i epoxied a short section of threaded cleaning rod so that i can use standard size brushes + patch loops on it -
 
#32 ·
Thanks! When I think about it, you are someone who can definitely use these types of tools with the number of rifles that you test and sheer volume of range trips you must make in testing them for your articles.

DrGunner
 
#35 ·
Warning about the Brushsnake!!!



SOME OF THESE BRUSHSNAKES WILL BREAK IF THE BORE IS TOO TIGHT!!!! It helps immensely to put the Brushsnake into the bore as if you plan to pull it, THEN PUSH IT THROUGH FROM BEHIND WITH A ROD FOR A FEW PASSES TO SET THE BRISTLES.

If yours breaks, PM me and I will replace it with a preconditioned/tested one.

DrGunner
 
#37 · (Edited)
This web site neve ceases to amaze!:t

What an excellent write up and idea.:)

For the Gunner chamber brush , ever try a brass rod or are there none available the right size? Also in the beginning what is/are the fluffy looking things, mops?

Never mind post in #1 looks like fuzzy pipe cleaners to hold the coils?
 
#38 ·
This web site neve ceases to amaze!:t

What an excellent write up and idea.:)

For the Gunner chamber brush , ever try a brass rod or are there none available the right size? Also in the beginning what is/are the fluffy looking things, mops?
Yes, I have used brass many times in the past and it works better than aluminum, but usually costs more. And yes to your second question those are 22 caliber chamber mops.

DrGunner
 
#39 ·
Will your bush and patch snakes fit (work) for a Ruger MII or Benchmark pistol?

In other words are the female fittings and the attached brush or slotted jag short enough to fit into the chamber to pull though.

I tried a Otis cable system and they would not work in a 10/222 or a MII .
I guess they have a smaller kit now that may??

Thanks
 
#40 ·
Did you mean Buckmark, not benchmark? The only gum that I know of that is called a benchmark is a 1911 made by Springfield. My brush and jagsnake work fine on my 1022's, my Buckmark, and my friends Ruger Mark II.

It is not about female "attachments"- the brushes are drilled and the trimmer line is roughed up and glued in. Same with the jags. You can shorten the jags somewhat for really small ejection ports, but not the brushes.

Bear in mind, you have to use the Otis pistol brushes that are featured in a link on Amazon earlier in this thread...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0040...364970606&ref_=sr_1_1&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-1

DrGunner
 
#41 ·
Yes I meant Buckmark, not the Bourbon.:D Guess you meant gun not gum;)

Tough getting old and not being able to tipe or spel;):D

Yes, I see that now, you have eliminated the "female" fitting, which makes it much shorter.:bthumb:

The Official Otis Tactical Kit will not fit the 10/22 or any small gun even small 9mm and 45 ACP

I have Otis brushes I bought on sale and they are shorter than the ones in the expensive kit

I have made and still have string trimmer snakes for a patch only. Not as nice as yours though. I wanted tto try the Otis kit so I could use it for all rifles and handguns (center fire and rimfire) I do not mind cleaning my handguns but rifles are a pain even though I have nice Tipton carbon fiber rods.

Think I will try to make some thin aircraft cable (like Otis) Maybe with gluing the stainless cable to the brass brush with epoxy???

Do you make.use yours for bigger center fire calibers?

Living in Florida I do have lots of .095 trimmer line!!
 
#42 ·
Think I will try to make some thin aircraft cable (like Otis) Maybe with gluing the stainless cable to the brass brush with epoxy???
Let me know how that works for you:t- I'm always interested in new ways to do things- my concern there would be the adherence between the SS cable, brass and epoxy. I found that trimmer line works best- and you can buy bigger diameter line than .095"- I use it because it strikes a balance between strength and size- strong enough to hold against tension with a tight button/patch, while still being small enough to hone into a point that doesn't ream too big a hole in the patch. If the line is too big, the button will pull right out of the patch.

Do you make.use yours for bigger center fire calibers?
Yes, I do- I have made them in .300, 7mm, 7.62/.308, and 9mm so far.
It's a matter of holding the button on the soldering iron longer... You have to work slowly and let the material melt, resisting the urge to "push feed" the trimmer line into the soldering iron. I have tried MANY brands of trimmer line. BY FAR, the green stuff - Round Gatorline-made by Oregon is the best.
I've seen it as big as .155", and have considered ordering some for making larger buttons and for attaching to bigger jags and brushes for the CF stuff, but haven't done so yet.

Amazon sells 50 foot spools of the .095" that I use for $6.32:

http://www.amazon.com/Oregon-69-175...&sr=8-3&keywords=Oregon+green+gatorline+.095"

Hope this helps-

DrGunner
 
#43 ·
Thanks,

For the cable, soldering would be best but trying to solder SS to brass would be tricky. I also thought about heavy copper wire with insulation. It would take a while for the solvents to mess up the copper..

For heavy duty fishing I have leader wire that is crimped with sleeves and a crimp tool, just another thought, The sleeves might scratch but Perhaps crimp the wire to the brass brush or jag??
 
#44 · (Edited)
The trimmer line works fine for me, although when the brush is new, Especially small calibers like 22, there is extreme resistance the first time you pull a brush through the bore. It is only at this time that I have experienced failure where the trimmer line pulls out of the brush The simple fix - take the edge of a round shafted tool of any kind and run along the bristles to angle them backward and condition them. Now, I simply affix the brushes to a rod and pull them through a barrel a couple of times before fabricating the brush snakes. I have made dozens of them, and so far they are holding their own. When you rough up the trimmer line with the edge of the razor, and use very thin/watery cyanomethacrylate glue and brass shod brushes, the bond is incredibly strong.

So- for my own purposes, it ain't broke, so I see no need to fix it- My main purpose in designing these with trimmer line and a tapered and polished brush was to avoid damaging the bore with sharp edges from steel cable or crimped fittings. It's important to create a concentric tool that won't angulate/deviate, and will essentially stay centered when pulled through.
I suppose if you were to use a mechanical crimp like those used for electrical cables, it might work just fine. The only issue I can foresee and perhaps warn you about is the order of operation in fabricating the brushes. You have to drill the hole, taper the head, and polish it before affixing the line if you want a smooth fixture that will pass through the bore without gouging anything. Once the cable is affixed, you can debur it some, But trying to shape and/or polish it with a coated wire or cable will be difficult to do without damaging the housing on the cable. So if you go that route, make sure that everything is shaped, tapered, and polished before you go to do any crimping.

DrGunner
 
#45 ·
Not at all detracting from your fine work. As I said earlier I think it is amazing!

I guess that's why I still use a rod and brushes;)

Only other question is when the brush wears out you have to make a whole new assembly? Or one for every caliber. You have it down to a science and can probably make hundreds , mere mortals such as myself are not as talented and are lazy:D
 
#46 ·
Yep, when its worn out I just toss it. Once you get a system down for making them, it's an assembly line process.

-Cut off the threads from a pile of brushes

-Set up and drill them

-Taper them on a bench sander

-Polish

- Cut lengths of trimmer line

- Score trimmer line for gluing

-Glue together

Not all that hard once you've done a few. Not all brushes work for this, though.
The Otis ones seem to have the steel wire that holds the bristles crimped in at the extreme far end of the brass swage, so there's plenty of room to drill to a depth of 1/4-5/16"

DrGunner
 
#49 ·
OK, I made my prototype today of the button patch puller.

Put a bolt in a soldering iron like yours.

I can not seem to make the button wider? I leave it on there and it melts but just gets longer (up the line) ? Reaches a certain diameter and then that's it. Just enough for a 22 but I want to make larger ones also.

Is it because I am pushing to Hard or not enough or what??

I have the iron and bolt in a vise straight up , not sideways like your pic.
 
#50 ·
What wattage is the soldering iron? What kind of trimmer line? I have found that you need to use a 40 W at least.
Also, the ground Gatorline made by Oregon Trimmer line has worked best for me.

You should not need to push hard, just even study pressure. The soldering iron needs to be HOT.

Hope this helps-

DrGunner
 
#51 ·
It' .095 line from Homer Depot , Rhino . The iron is twice the size of yours it is a antique/classic was my grandfathers, size of a baton!it's 100W. It takes a long time to heat up there is so much metal in it. Probably was not hot enough. I am used to my soldiering gun, pull the trigger kind.

I did another and made it bigger. Need to order some Otis brushes:)
 
#52 ·
That Rhino line works fine. I also made an adapter out of brass about 11/16'' long tapped one end 8-32 for brushes and jags then the other end 4-40. Ran a 4-40 die onto the .095 trimmer line and screwed it in the adapter. Works great and I don't see the line ever pulling out.
Thanks DrGunner for your inspiration.
 
#54 ·
Sorry it took so long to get back, been everywhere but here. The hardest part was attaching the brass to the line, hard to hold. The line must swell up some when a die is run on it. I must be a little dumb I cant post a pick. Maybe I'll learn someday. I did make it on a mini lathe, probably be a lot more difficult with out one to drill straight and to the right depth.
 
#55 ·
I would really like to see the pics shared here to further the info available for the membership.

Hosting Pics on Photobucket for FREE:

The amount of data you can upload is severely limited, as the RFC server would have to be HUGE to hold all the jpegs. Start a free photobucket account, then upload your pics and copy a link to the IMG file in Photobucket and paste it in the "Reply to thread" box here. You can post multiple pics in one reply, but try to limit yourself to 2 or 3 per reply or they will be downsized automatically.
As long as you don't remove or delete the original file, it will appear here. You might want to allocate your photobucket albums as private, or anyone will be able to stalk yo bucket...

If this is all too much, send me a PM, I will reply with my email address and you can send the pics directly to me. I will upload the pics to my Pbucket acct and host them for you.

Hope this helps,

DrG
 
#58 ·
Tip -Use a bit of wax

Great ideas Dr. G! Thanks for sharing your great stuff. :t :t

I've made a lot of the weed whacker pull thru gizmo's. I found that using a bit of wax on the end of the heating element keeps the plastic from sticking so badly, and allows me to slide off the formed "knot" off the heater. I used cast bullet lube, but paste wax or even candle wax will probably work.
 
#59 ·
Great ideas Dr. G! Thanks for sharing your great stuff. :t :t

I've made a lot of the weed whacker pull thru gizmo's. I found that using a bit of wax on the end of the heating element keeps the plastic from sticking so badly, and allows me to slide off the formed "knot" off the heater. I used cast bullet lube, but paste wax or even candle wax will probably work.
Thanks for that! I tried candle wax, but found that the button would "boil", inducing bubbles in the end result- maybe I need a bigger bolt head to dissipate heat, thus lowering the temperature?

I will definitely try the wax again- although I have been making them with steel wool to clean the head of the iron for so long, it's just become a part of my process.
Any char left behind tends to melt into the button, and I've found the cleaner the button, the stronger.

Time to see what kinds of wax I have around to experiment with.

I appreciate the input!!!

Regards,

DrGunner
 
#60 · (Edited)
Update-

I decided to make a batch of handles out of brass rod stock. Amazon has Hoppes .22 cal 3 piece brass cleaning rods for $8.86, free shipping for Prime members.
The rod kit also has a loop jag and cylindrical push type jag.
I found the brass to be MUCH easier to work with when drilling and tapping.
First, the original male threads from the sectional rod are cut off and each section is ground flat and perpendicular to the axis of the rod on the male end. An 8/32 tap is then run into the "female" end. The flat end is then drilled and tapped as described previously in this thread resulting in straight rod sections that are drilled and tapped for 8/32 threads on both ends. Each of these sections was then polished on a cotton rag wheel using jewelers rouge. After polishing, they were cleaned thoroughly and the threaded sockets in each end were flushed out with solvent a few times and then well oiled. Next comes bending of the finger loop.
Bending the brass around the 5/8" deep well (spark plug) socket/bubba jig requires the use of more heat than aluminum. I use a spark plug socket because it has a hexagonal outer surface at its base and therefore is easier to lock into a vise for good stability. After heating about 2 inches of the center of the rod with Mapp gas wearing heavy leather gloves, I was only able to wrap the rod around the socket and cross the ends before things tightened up. Forcing the issue at this point cracked one of them which you will see as a single loop handle in the pics.
So I simply took the units back to the torch and applied heat to the loop area up to where the rod crossed itself and reheated for 30- 45 seconds, applying heat to both sides before taking it back to the jig for a final shaping. A quick touch up buffing on the wheel is then needed.
I then applied a layer of Maguires paste wax to keep them from oxidizing.




I have to say that these rods are much easier to machine, much stronger when bent to their final configuration, and simply have a better look and feel of quality in my hands. I will be using brass exclusively from now on.

DrGunner
 
#61 · (Edited)
Button puller update

I have been using .095" round green Gatorline to make my Patchsnake button pullers and Jagsnake looped patch pullers for a few years now. It is readily available, relatively inexpensive, and holds up to abuse pretty well - or so I thought. I have noticed over the last two seasons that the button on the green trimmer line will pull off after a few months of hard use, especially on patch snakes that are a tight fit in the bore.



I decided to start experimenting with different products and found a spool of this .105 inch Universal trimmer line made by Rino Tuff.



I made a few button pullers with it and have to say that the way that the material melts is superior to the Gator line, the button is much harder and near impossible to pull off!!! The only downside is that the trimmer line itself has a light serration down one side which could potentially collect up grit which would be a no-no and contrary to the intended purpose of these tools.

I have experimented with methods to remove the seriation, sandpaper was my first thought but tends to embed small particle of Emery or silica into the line so I nixed that idea. So far, pulling a straight edged razor blade against the line with gentle thumb pressure seems to work well. I will keep experimenting with this new material and post back here when I have a process perfected as I do believe it will produce a superior button style patch pulling device once I get the nuances of their fabrication worked out.

Hope this helps-

DrGunner
 
#63 ·
DrGunner

I know that I'm late to the party, but that is just awesome! Thanks for the idea along with the detailed photos. I can't wait to make one or two myself.
Hey, a NEW GUY... :yippee::Welcome::yippee::beerchug:WELCOME to RFC!!!!!:beerchug::yippee::Welcome::yippee:

Since you have the auspicious honor of being the subject of my 6000th post, and as
a welcoming gift- I would like to offer you the following:

PM me your mailing address and I will send you a brass chamber handle, jag puller and a handful of button pullers-

Freebie!!!

Warmest Regards,

DrGunner
 
#64 ·
DrGunner, Schutzen-jager, hd09, and other contributors:

Thanks so much for this thread. Just found it, although I cannot recall how I got here from there..:confused:. I have been experimenting along similar lines and your generosity in sharing your results is very much appreciated:bthumb:

Perchance, have you resolved the question about smoothing out the RhinoTuff line?
 
#65 ·
I have been running mine on a ragwheel with polishing compound-

Just have to be careful, go slow and don't build up too much heat:bthumb:

You might want to check this thread by Nosnil22- Dave invented a crown protector for use with pull through cleaning systems:

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=565768

Hope this helps-

DrGunner
 
#73 ·
DrGunner et al,
First, thanks for the excellent write up of how you make your chamber tools. This is definitely on my "honeydew" list. I was cleaning my K10/22T yesterday and was needing a chamber brush. Found this thread and now I need to source some brass round bar!

I have a couple of tips to offer regarding the hot working of brass and aluminum. I am a welder by trade, and although I primarily build, service and install machines now, I used to make custom decorative architectural metal products. Long story short, one can easily "anneal", or soften, aluminum and brass using your MAPP torch and some water. You merely need to heat the metal to its "critical temperature" and then quench it in a bucket of water. I would guess that the AL rods in the Hoppes kit are made from 6061-T6 bar, so just warm them up to 8-900° F and quickly dunk them into a bucket of water. This will put them into a "dead soft" state. AL (and brass, an alloy of copper and {today} zinc) will "work harden", but since we will only be bending them once, it shouldn't be an issue. The T6 rod will automatically re-harden over time, so if you want to do a bunch of rods over a couple (or more) days, after annealing them, pop them into the freezer and they will stay soft indefinitely. Weird, huh? Frankly I didn't believe that until I tried it--had to make a mess of rivets to construct an arbor for a houseboat here in Seattle.

Anyway, you can find Tempil sticks at your local welding supply shop. Basically it is a crayon whose "wax" melts at a specific temperature. While heating the rods, keep dabbing the crayon onto the AL bar until it melts. Your failures /cracking while heating and forming the multi-piece rods from Hoppes were likely the result of overheating. AL doesn't get shiny when it melts, and its high coefficient of thermal conductivity makes it easy to heat up, but also means it cools down rapidly, especially in such a small diameter size. What this means for our annealing process is that time is of the essence when preparing for the "dunk". As quickly as possible (an assistant really pays off here) get the rod into the water before it cools below the critical temperature, or becomes overheated. Once quenched, the difference in formability is dramatic. Care must be taken as it will become soft enough to be bent easily. Usually 24 hours later it will harden on its own, so set the formed rods aside and let them do their thing undisturbed.

When you buy your brass round stock at the hardware store, it will likely be "half-hard". Heat it to red hot, quench it and the formability should improve. I've not worked a lot with brass, so am not sure if it will reharden like AL. If you want a material that really works nicely, round up (pun intended:cool:) some silicon bronze rod. Bends easily with just a touch of heat and since silicon is the alloying metal (with copper) you don't have the low melting point of zinc to contend with, and the chance of cracking is greatly reduced.

Anyway, hope you find my ramblings useful. Thanks again for the great idea! BTW, what diameter brass rod do you use? I must have missed it in your post.
 
#74 ·
DrGunner et al,
First, thanks for the excellent write up of how you make your chamber tools. This is definitely on my "honeydew" list. I was cleaning my K10/22T yesterday and was needing a chamber brush. Found this thread and now I need to source some brass round bar!

I have a couple of tips to offer regarding the hot working of brass and aluminum. I am a welder by trade, and although I primarily build, service and install machines now, I used to make custom decorative architectural metal products. Long story short, one can easily "anneal", or soften, aluminum and brass using your MAPP torch and some water. You merely need to heat the metal to its "critical temperature" and then quench it in a bucket of water. I would guess that the AL rods in the Hoppes kit are made from 6061-T6 bar, so just warm them up to 8-900° F and quickly dunk them into a bucket of water. This will put them into a "dead soft" state. AL (and brass, an alloy of copper and {today} zinc) will "work harden", but since we will only be bending them once, it shouldn't be an issue. The T6 rod will automatically re-harden over time, so if you want to do a bunch of rods over a couple (or more) days, after annealing them, pop them into the freezer and they will stay soft indefinitely. Weird, huh? Frankly I didn't believe that until I tried it--had to make a mess of rivets to construct an arbor for a houseboat here in Seattle.

Anyway, you can find Tempil sticks at m your local welding supply shop. Basically it is a crayon whose "wax" melts at a specific temperature. While heating the rods, keep dabbing the crayon onto the AL bar until it melts. Your failures /cracking while heating and forming the multi-piece rods from Hoppes were likely the result of overheating. AL doesn't get shiny when it melts, and its high coefficient of thermal conductivity makes it easy to heat up, but also means it cools down rapidly, especially in such a small diameter size. What this means for our annealing process is that time is of the essence when preparing for the "dunk". As quickly as possible (an assistant really pays off here) get the rod into the water before it cools below the critical temperature, or becomes overheated. Once quenched, the difference in formability is dramatic. Care must be taken as it will become soft enough to be bent easily. Usually 24 hours later it will harden on its own, so set the formed rods aside and let them do their thing undisturbed.

When you buy your brass round stock at the hardware store, it will likely be "half-hard". Heat it to red hot, quench it and the formability should improve. I've not worked a lot with brass, so am not sure if it will reharden like AL. If you want a material that really works nicely, round up (pun intended:cool:) some silicon bronze rod. Bends easily with just a touch of heat and since silicon is the alloying metal (with copper) you don't have the low melting point of zinc to contend with, and the chance of cracking is greatly reduced.

Anyway, hope you find my ramblings useful. Thanks again for the great idea! BTW, what diameter brass rod do you use? I must have missed it in your post.
Hey Chuck- thanks for the useful info. Funny thing, I've already been quenching mine, I just drop them I'm a bucket of water to cool, but after shaping. I Will give your suggestions a try.

As far as the brass rods go, I don't even use aluminum anymore. The failure of the Hoppes aluminum rods appears to happen without overheating, about one in 10 just crumbles on bending and I suspect the raw material isn't of the highest purity?

Anyhow- I use Hoppes 3 section .22 cal brass rods now. They cost around $8-9 on Amazon, so I can make the handles for about $3 apiece. The brass is MUCH easier easier to work with, both forming and drilling/tapping.

I very much appreciate your valuable insight- I'm a tinkerer where this stuff is concerned and the vast majority of what I know is instinctive, learned from trial and error and thus a frequent and costly failure and waste of raw materials.

Your advice may well help minimize that moving forward.
:bthumb:

DrGunner
 
#76 ·
DrGunner:

As a new rimfire participant (perhaps addict would be more descriptive), I really appreciate all the effort you put into sharing these great ideas.
Very well done. :bthumb:
Tom
Tom- Thanks!!! PM me your shipping addy and I will send you a free set (minus the brush puller, I'm all out of them right now). I will send you a few of the Patchsnake button pullers, a Jagsnake, and a brass Gunner finger loop chamber brush and mop.

Welcome to RFC!!!

Sincerely,

DrGunner
 
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