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Necessary to full length size new Brass?

2K views 27 replies 15 participants last post by  frostbitten 
#1 ·
Just setting up my new Forster Co-ax press. I think i've got the fundamentals to start.

I have about 400 once fired .308 Win shells, that are not yet De-primed, or clean; so I bought some brand new Winchester bag of 50 shells to get started until I can get my tumbler. I also bought a Lyman case length/head space gauge. I measured about 15 pieces of the new Winchester brass, and they are all within tolerance.

Some of the necks are slightly dented, so I'm assuming it's a good idea to simply full length size all of them/...I'm guessing it might be a good idea to always full length size any new Brass?

Let me know your recommendations.

thanx
 
#8 · (Edited)
I've used neck sizing only, for best results on an older 223 Remington 788,
but my Savage/Shilen prefers full length resizing for best results on target.
My Stag 6 AR wants full length resized cartridges, neck sized brass won't always chamber.
Try both ways and determine what works best for your chamber.
 
#9 ·
I think the way I would look at it is this: if you are reloading, you have the opportunity to eliminate many of the variables that exist in factory ammo: flash hole size/burrs, differences in case volume, powder charge measurement, neck tension etc. Full length sizing doesn't take very long for 50 cases. Why, having spent all the money to control some of these variables, would you pass up an easy opportunity to make sure that your cases are uniform? Plus, you will have to full length resize eventually. Why not just have the cases as run through your dies as a baseline for future measurements?

Me? I'd do it.
 
#10 ·
People neck-size (only) to save wear and tear on the brass, only FL sizing when they start getting sticky to extract.

You're measuring to the shoulder of the case? You said "within spec" but what I want to know is what the longest measurement is that will go into your chamber (without a bullet in it) and still permit closure of the bolt without undue stress.

That would be my "spec." -- well, that minus about .002 or .003. Again, to save wear and tear on the brass.

Do your trimming after you re-size and prime because that process often changes the length of the case, esp. if your are setting the shoulder back as part of your re-size, which I usually am.

All good fun!
 
#11 ·
hey one quick question....

Until i get my tumbler; If I want to take a once fired case, and clean it enough so that i can full length size it (to check to make sure my full length sizing is correct); how can i clean the case to prevent the interior of the case from leaving dirt, debris etc., on my brand new die?

I just want to clean a couple cases to make sure i got the die positioned correctly.

Can i just run a brush up and down inside the case to remove any debris?...or should I just wait till i get my tumbler?

thanx
 
#13 ·
Hey, you can clean the outside with some 0000 Scotch Brite pads. I wouldn't worry too much about running a couple of "dirty" empties through your dies. If it bothers you, disassemble the dies and clean them after sizing a couple of cases. Brush if ya wanna. You can shoot some One-shot case neck lube in the cases and brush a couple of strokes.
 
#12 ·
I check a representative sample of new unprimed brass for length. Usually not necessary to trim, as you have discovered.

Next, just run all over expander button and back. Thread the button down to position below the level of the neck sizing portion of a FL die. Might want to remove the decapping pin. Your headspace gauge told you there's no need to full/partial size. Believe the gauge here.

Next chamfer, especially inside. I use a 22 degree carbide (Lyman) but non-carbide OK. Just remember to get the more tapered 22 degree version. This is so you don't shave bullet jackets on seating.

To minimize friction/expander wear you can a) get a carbide expander button (Lyman), b) use lube. I use mica - dip a .30 cal nylon brush in it and get some on the inside neck. Imperial case lube is also really good. Dillon case lube works fine, but remember to let the stuff dry first.

If your once-fired .308 brass is LC/WCC/IVI/eieio military I strongly advise you read Glen Zediker's article: "reloading for the match M14". Pdf you can find easily, and the very best read on loading .308.
 
#17 ·
Loaded my first box of .308 Win today....everything went well, can't wait to hit the range.

One question....when transferring powder from the powder container, to the cartridge, how do you keep static electricity from making some of the powder granules, cling to the inside of the neck?

Some of my cartridges would have several grains in the neck section. i pushed them down with a pencil point, and made sure the granules dropped into the case further.


maybe I'm being anal-retentive thinking the granules will cause issues being inside the neck....is it o.k. for them to be in the neck section?

thanx
 
#21 ·
Will take that into account...

For now, I used the Factory standard length of 2.800", Later I will try moving the bullet closer to the lands, after I find the most accurate grain amount. I'm starting at 42 grains of Varget, than will increase .5 grains per load.
 
#23 ·
^^^This. It can happen with the fancy stuff too. I have some Lapua .223 cases that I decided to pass on full length resizing. DUH! During that first round of bullet seating, you could feel the variations in neck tension. I'd say 10% of the batch had slightly looser necks. So for me: never again. Say it with me: Full length resize, resize, resize.
 
#25 ·
Last winter, I loaded up 50 rounds of 30-40 Krag with brand new brass from Grafs. I thought no problem, they are new they are good to go. Wrong. Over half of the rounds wouldn't chamber, and the ones that did required substantial force. The rifle being 119 years old, I didn't fire any.

With the bullets I used being just lead, I had to throw a lot of them out. The whole ordeal was a major headache that could have been avoided if I just took the extra few seconds. Those seconds cost me hours, I have a single stage press so it is always slow.

I don't care where I get brass from now, it all gets a full length size no matter what and I would recommend the same to anybody else.
 
#26 ·
Another question....

After only loading one box of ammo; I realize that using an empty .308 Win case, attached to a handle, and dipped into a 1 pound bottle of varget, than dumped unto my RCBS balance scale, is way too time consuming. i'm thinking now of getting a powder Measure, although I would still weigh every charge.

I'm considering the RCBS Uniflow, the LEE precision perfect measurer, the Hornady LOCK N LOAD, or the Frankford Arsenal Platinum.

Since I will weigh every charge, and probably set my charge weight purposefully low, followed by a powder trickler, I'm thinking of going cheap with the LEE model, i've read they leak with some powders, butI'm not ruling it out. let me know your thoughts.

thanx
 
#27 ·
When reloading precision rifle, I use a uniflo and throw light charges (just barely underweight) then trickle into the beam scale. Do as many as I need and then put a bright lite over the tray to make sure I didn’t screw any up. For pistol I set the weight I want and then just weight about every thirtieth round but still do the bright lite trick over the whole tray to make sure you don’t screw any up…
This also causes issues with powder types as some large flake powders and or stick powders are not as easy to use as say 748 or other type ball powders when using any type of powder throw.
Also when loading it is best to really pay attention to what you are doing…. Don’t try to multi task….
I have a few uniflos and keep one always set for large loads and one set for small loads….

Have fun loading is really a life long hobby…:D
 
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