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  #1  
Old 09-25-2021, 05:32 PM
mosin46
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Thread watched cz action screw torque settings



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i have a 455 and a 457. thinking about working with inch pound action screw torque settings,which i have never done before. just wondering if anyone has any ideas or experience with this and could suggest a starting point. or,does it matter much in a quality 22? tx for input.
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  #2  
Old 09-25-2021, 06:31 PM
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I have a 457 Jaguar...CZ told me 31 in pounds on both screws...but I don't go that tight..in have tried various configurations...and guys who no more about it than me (here on RFC) have suggested the following:

1. Tighted each screw a little at a time (maybe 2 inchpounds).
2. Start with rear screw tightening first...so takenthe rear to say 18, then the front to 18 and shoot..
3. You might find the front screw needs slightly less than the the rear to keep the barrel off the channel.
4. Don't just "back off" the screws to lessen the tension, say from 18 to 16...lossen the screw and then re- tighten to 16.
5. I settles on 18 rear and 16 front...but am not sold this is perfect (for me)...still working on it...have gone as tight as 25/25...and as loose as 12/18..
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  #3  
Old 09-25-2021, 07:09 PM
mpolk
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I tighten the barrel grub screw to 28ip and the rear action screw to 18ip first and the front to 18ip also second. Best settings for my two MTR's.
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Old 09-25-2021, 07:29 PM
skeeljc
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If your action screw torque is that sensitive I would epoxy bed the action.
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  #5  
Old 09-25-2021, 08:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skeeljc View Post
If your action screw torque is that sensitive I would epoxy bed the action.
I am to chicken to bed
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  #6  
Old 09-26-2021, 12:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StephenBachiler View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by skeeljc View Post
If your action screw torque is that sensitive I would epoxy bed the action.
I am to chicken to bed
At the very least tape bed it. Right now your action is basically teetering in the stock if tightening the front action screw pulls the barrel down. Not very good for consistent accuracy.
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Old 09-26-2021, 12:41 PM
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At the very least tape bed it. Right now your action is basically teetering in the stock if tightening the front action screw pulls the barrel down. Not very good for consistent accuracy.
What is tape bedding ?...I've heard of plastic and beer can strips...but never tape.

Where is the tape placed precisely ?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
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Old 09-26-2021, 01:58 PM
mosin46
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torque

gonna start tomorrow @ 15# and go from there. 457 stock factory wood. 455 is in (i think) a factory provided laminate-boyds i guess. tx for the info. from here,you tube and snipers hide looks like 15-30 but a lot of room to test.
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  #9  
Old 09-26-2021, 06:00 PM
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Every gun I have is torqued between 25 - 30 ip except for the Tikka T1X, its between 30-35.
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  #10  
Old 09-26-2021, 07:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bwana_1 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick7274 View Post
At the very least tape bed it. Right now your action is basically teetering in the stock if tightening the front action screw pulls the barrel down. Not very good for consistent accuracy.
What is tape bedding ?...I've heard of plastic and beer can strips...but never tape.

Where is the tape placed precisely ?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Instead of using a permanent bonding material under the barreled action you use tape. Pretty much any type will work (duct tape, masking tape, etc.) but something that is a little more like rubber is better. You cut the pieces to fit where the action isn't touching the stock and go as thick as you have to until it is. I wouldn't recommend going more than 1"- 1 1/2" in front of the receiver. It's a pretty common thing that people do when their not up for doing a real bedding job. Not sure I would use plastic or beer can strips for it.
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  #11  
Old 09-26-2021, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by StephenBachiler View Post
I am to chicken to bed
Lots of people are afraid to bed their rifle as they think they will do damage. I’m a novice at this compared to some members here on RFC but I successfully bedded two rifles and they shoot great, better. This worked for me, other will insist you must use Devcon, as they say, there’s more than one way to skin a cat.

Do research, watch some of the better professional videos and take your time, it’s not a hard job. Bedding compound can be easily removed with a Dremel/similar and other basic tools. As with any project, preparation is the name of the game.

Over here (Ireland) Devcon bedding compound is hard to get and if available its a large tub and very expensive. Lots of us here have used JB Weld (Steel) Putty. It works great but as a putty is tends to go off quickly (20-40mins) in warm conditions and can be hard to work with then.

Prep – Carefully tape up any areas you don’t want bedding compound on, use a release agent on all metal work (action/barrel/lugs/action screws - you can use clear/neutral shoe polish, vaseline {petroleum jelly} – use numerous coats.

Have on hand - something to use as a roller, a piece of thin medium/hard plastic, a craft knife, a dowel of some sort to fit the action screws holes and several strips of rubber (bicycle tube).

ONE - Quickly mix up the putty until colour is consistent, roll out a piece one/two mils thick and wide enough/long enough to fit your action. Gently press into place and then insert action/barrel, press down firmly ensuring action/barrel is not too high from stock both front and rear. Excess putty will extrude out, leave as is for now. A quick look at the tang/action/barrel will show if it’s too high, i.e. too high above the level of the wood. If happy, tie down with strips of bicycle tube, wait 8/10 minutes and then gently remove action/barrel.

Action/barrel should be clean/no putty sticking to it, if so, re-apply several coats of release agent.

TWO - Now use your dowel from underneath to gently push up against the putty; you now have two dimples showing where the action screws are, use the dowel from above to clear putty from the action holes in the stock. Use the plastic/craft knife to clear away any excess putty from magazine/trigger void.

THREE - Install the action/barrel, insert action screws/tighten down, not too much but ensuring the tang/action/barrel are not proud of the wood work. Use plastic/craft knife to clear away any excess putty, wait another 8/10 minutes and then carefully remove the action/barrel. Us the craft knife/plastic to carefully trim away any excess putty and be sure to clean the action screw threads of any putty.
Re-apply release agent, re-install the action/barrel and tighten down with action screws.

FOUR - You can leave as is for 24 hours but JB Weld Putty is normally rock hard in 3/4 hours (temperate dependant). All that is left is to clean off all metal parts, clean up any excess putty edges with craft knife/a fine file/emery paper. Use a fine round craft file to clean out action screw holes in stock.

Pillar bedding is just additionally installing two pillars (usually brass/copper); these prevent a wooden stock from being crushed if undue pressure/torque is applied to the bedding screws.

Some will hate this method of bedding, others have done same and have no problems, as previously stated, there is more than one way to skin a cat.

Enjoy……
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  #12  
Old 09-26-2021, 08:29 PM
410Jim
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how did the factory get so far out of spec

Got a brand new Composite Trainer with the rear screw tightened to about a hundred in pounds. I tore up the screw head trying to remove the screw to adjust the trigger. Now it is time to send it back and let them fix it.
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  #13  
Old 09-29-2021, 08:13 PM
CarolinaChuck
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Torque settings

A big mystery covering other issues. If the rifle that is sensitive to inch pound settings I would pillar bed it as a first move (#1). Is the barrel free-floated? Dump that like a bad habit if the torqueing issues continues. Do something in the fore-stock area to pressure bed the whole barreled action as one - like tape as someone suggested. Wrap some tape around the barrel near the end of the stock until the barreled action sits tight- use a razor blade to cut the tape on the top side of the barrel so it is not seen (#2).

#3, #4 and #5 is to take two aspirins and call me in the morning. You got issues....
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