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  #1  
Old 02-21-2021, 01:06 PM
LESchwartz

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New to me Walther P22...



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I recently purchased a very lightly used Walther P22 off Gunbroker. I was struck by just how small it was. I figure the smallish grip will be perfect for teaching my grandaughters to shoot. I did order up some finger extension floorplates (for me) along with a couple of additional mags.

I was also struck by the fact that the barrel has no slots for venting out the muzzle break. Am I missing something here?

Thanks,

Larry

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  #2  
Old 02-21-2021, 07:00 PM
1917-1911M
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Hey Larry, you have purchased an original "target" version of the P22. The frame, slide and grip are the same for the 3.4" barrel and the 5" barrel pistols. You have the more accurate 5" barrel on your pistol. The only difference between your pistol and a regular P22 is that you have a 5" barrel, 5" barrel sleeve and a factory clamp on stabilizer. It is not a muzzle brake. It is a weight, much like many old PP pistols used to stabilize the muzzle. This stabilization is due to weight only. Keep it tightly clamped onto the barrel sleeve.

The original pistol was designed using the P99 as the design theme. In about 2011 the P22 had the slide and grips redesigned to follow the PPQ theme. The slide was also beefed up a bit as a number of the original slides cracked. If you live in the States the pistol has a lifetime warranty. Headquarters are in Ft. Smith, Arkansas. Should you ever desire you can order a Q slide and grips. They fit perfectly...no change necessary. Walther also now makes a captive recoil spring which works fine with late issues of Q slides but will not work with the slightly smaller hole in your slide. Drilled out to 1/4" and the captive spring works fine.

Likewise, the pistol was designed to use either barrel length system. Same barrel nut, but different length barrels and sleeves. At one time you could even purchase the pistol as a combo set with both barrels. You can tell the date of manufacture by a two letter code on the frame at the ejection port. DE = Germany. AC =2002, AD = 2003, AE = 2004, etc. J is not used. AK would be the last of the A series and would be 2009. Subsequent to that the BA, BB, BC models began. Safe shooting. 1917



Here is my 2006 frame pistol updated with Q grips and slide. I have threaded the breech block, bolted on an aluminum mount for a Shield red dot. SilencerCo suppressor which gets the pistol extremely dirty extremely quickly. This pistol frame has over 100,000 rounds on it.

Last edited by 1917-1911M; 02-21-2021 at 07:07 PM.
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Old 02-21-2021, 07:14 PM
1917-1911M
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I forget to mention it has now been so long ago but pictured above is a series of P22 mags through the years. The original one did not have any rim stagger slots and didn't feed properly. The short slot one in the middle came out in 2006 or so and they didn't feed properly either. If you happen to have those and have feeding issues with them give Ft Smith a call, explain the issue and ask for replacements. 1917
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  #4  
Old 02-21-2021, 09:48 PM
LESchwartz

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Mine is marked AI, which I assume is 2008. The sole magazine has a "B" suffix, so I'm going to assume the mag is good to go. I personally find the grip really small, but I've ordered two more mags and AdamsGrips extended floorplates for my use. I'm not too worried about the grips as the pistol is primarily for training my granddaughters --plus my daughter though the grip was "perfect".

I understand that 22LR has like no recoil. I still find the faux brake really amusing. I do quite a lot of amateur gunsmithing, so wonder if anyone has opened the barrel to allow the brake to function?

I haven't been to the range yet, but am looking forward to trying it once the weather gets a touch warmer.

Larry

Last edited by LESchwartz; 02-21-2021 at 09:55 PM.
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Old 02-21-2021, 09:54 PM
LESchwartz

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Oh, one other thing . . . My eyes have gotten really bad as I've gotten older. I see there are front fiber sights for this pistol. Any recommendations for rear fiber sights?

Larry
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Old 02-22-2021, 09:37 AM
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Larry, the good thing is you can always wrap the grip to make it larger...you can't make it smaller. The backstrap is removable with a small and large part that is easily changed out. You can press the pin out and have a look on the inside of the piece to see if it say S or L. There isn't a lot of difference in size.

I've never read of anyone drilling the barrel/stabilizer.

The pistol is really light so there is some felt recoil but nothing like larger cf calibers of course. Nothing that will scare new shooters away or cause flinching. As you probably know even .22 ammo in short barrel pistols is just as loud as 9mm. So, ear and eye protection at all times.

B suffix mags are good and AI is 2008. There are no rear sight options as the sight is attached over a unique small loop. There is nothing else like it. The slide is cast zinc , very thin in places and the firing pin runs immediately below the rear of the top of the slide so forget about dovetails. I have thought long and hard about what can be done and the options are limited. After a good deal of study I finally determined that the steel breech block could be used to fasten a mounting plate solidly to the rear of the slide. Quite a bit of precise drilling, tapping with 3mm machine screws to hold the plate on. I could have mounted a Weaver rail or something else but....the weight has to be kept on the low side.

So, the pistol is more or less what it is. Zinc frame and slide. It works well for what it is. New ones a few months ago were $225 to $250. It is a good training pistol and a good plinker. The 5" model can group five rounds in a 5/8" group at 25M so that is plenty accurate. I've lowered the trigger pull to 2 lbs on several pistols. I've also removed the hammer strut so that the trigger can be have a complete travel distance of about 1/4", fire to reset. There is a lot of history here on the pistol...but, mainly it is what it is. Better pistols are available but the P22 is a fun one with a lifetime warranty. If you port the barrel and stabilizer let us know how it works. I'd suggest shooting it a lot first so you will know if you have made any impact to muzzle lift.

The pistol also comes with three front sight blades of different height. I use #2 most of the time. Always make sure you index the barrel sleeve before tightening the barrel nut. The latest pistols have had the primary hook really lowered. This eliminates creep. I've been doing the same modification for years. The old hooks were pretty tall. There are two and two arms on the sear. The layout of the trigger bar is straightforward in a 1911 sort of manner. DA release is by the trigger bar disengaging from the hammer strut. SA actually uses the sear. Have fun with it....I certainly have. And of course with a thread adapter the pistol is suppressor ready. 1917



Rear sight loop.

Last edited by 1917-1911M; 02-22-2021 at 09:51 AM.
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  #7  
Old 02-22-2021, 09:54 AM
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Congrats on your new pistol.

Due to arthritic hands I can't use a 9mm so my carry pistol is the Walther P-22.

I'm not up on the technical stuff discussed here but my P-22 has run flawlessly for several years now.
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Old 02-22-2021, 10:00 AM
1917-1911M
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Since you like gunsmithing there are a couple of other things you might want to look at. Sometimes the face of the hammer can get caught between the small gap between the breech block and safety drum. I lightly remove that tip but also have stock hammers in some of my pistols. The other problem is that way back the trigger bar ears were very sharp..sheared side up...steel and would chew on the bottom side of the slide. Two small ramps knock the trigger bar down with each shot to disconnect it from the sear. I reprofile the top, front edge of the ears so they will not damage the slide. 1917

If you flip the trigger bar upside down, slide the ears only across some emery paper, keeping your work neat....the resulting new angle on the front of the ears will match the angle of the slope of the ramp under the slide perfectly. This will eliminated gouging that many sharp edges ears can cause..




Last edited by 1917-1911M; 02-22-2021 at 10:06 AM.
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Old 02-22-2021, 10:15 AM
Natureman29
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Best upgrade you can get is the "captured" spring.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Okw...ature=emb_logo
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Old 02-22-2021, 10:20 AM
1917-1911M
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The guts when the frame is split.. 1917
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Old 02-27-2021, 05:10 PM
LESchwartz

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Snuck out to the range earlier this afternoon. I ran 100 rounds through without any issues. The only thing I noticed was that I needed to pull the slide to release it, as it seemed like just using the slide release resulted in a misfeed -- while not quite a stove pipe, but tip of the round would jam against the breach. Pulling the slide and releasing it was fine.

I was getting 3" groups of 20 using the irons at 10 yards using the [rather nice] sights. I know it's not the greatest, but my most accurate pistol performance in about 25 years. Stinks getting old and my eyes aren't what they used to be.

Larry

Last edited by LESchwartz; 02-28-2021 at 08:00 PM.
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Old 03-28-2021, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1917-1911M View Post
Hey Larry, you have purchased an original "target" version of the P22. The frame, slide and grip are the same for the 3.4" barrel and the 5" barrel pistols. You have the more accurate 5" barrel on your pistol. The only difference between your pistol and a regular P22 is that you have a 5" barrel, 5" barrel sleeve and a factory clamp on stabilizer. It is not a muzzle brake. It is a weight, much like many old PP pistols used to stabilize the muzzle. This stabilization is due to weight only. Keep it tightly clamped onto the barrel sleeve.

The original pistol was designed using the P99 as the design theme. In about 2011 the P22 had the slide and grips redesigned to follow the PPQ theme. The slide was also beefed up a bit as a number of the original slides cracked. If you live in the States the pistol has a lifetime warranty. Headquarters are in Ft. Smith, Arkansas. Should you ever desire you can order a Q slide and grips. They fit perfectly...no change necessary. Walther also now makes a captive recoil spring which works fine with late issues of Q slides but will not work with the slightly smaller hole in your slide. Drilled out to 1/4" and the captive spring works fine.

Likewise, the pistol was designed to use either barrel length system. Same barrel nut, but different length barrels and sleeves. At one time you could even purchase the pistol as a combo set with both barrels. You can tell the date of manufacture by a two letter code on the frame at the ejection port. DE = Germany. AC =2002, AD = 2003, AE = 2004, etc. J is not used. AK would be the last of the A series and would be 2009. Subsequent to that the BA, BB, BC models began. Safe shooting. 1917



Here is my 2006 frame pistol updated with Q grips and slide. I have threaded the breech block, bolted on an aluminum mount for a Shield red dot. SilencerCo suppressor which gets the pistol extremely dirty extremely quickly. This pistol frame has over 100,000 rounds on it.
Hello, I am also thinking of buying an original P22 short version. I found two models very cheap: one has anyear marking of AH, the other has DE AK. Any updates or differences between these two models?

Also if I understand correctly; if I order a Q style slide and frame later on that is all I need to upgrade my 2007-2009 model p22 pistol to a 2012+ Q style model look. Everything else will fit perfectly am I correct?
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Old 03-28-2021, 09:28 AM
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This is a very informative thread! I was given a P22 as a Christmas gift from my kids some years ago, and by the information above mine dates as a 2004 manufactured pistol. Mine doesn't get shot a lot, but it functions perfectly.
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Old 05-03-2021, 08:53 AM
1917-1911M
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dogukan View Post
Hello, I am also thinking of buying an original P22 short version. I found two models very cheap: one has anyear marking of AH, the other has DE AK. Any updates or differences between these two models?

Also if I understand correctly; if I order a Q style slide and frame later on that is all I need to upgrade my 2007-2009 model p22 pistol to a 2012+ Q style model look. Everything else will fit perfectly am I correct?
Yes Dogukan, you can update an original P99 design theme P22 to the PPQ style. There are only a couple of considerations. Essentially the pistols are the same. An early Q model will allow you to swap out the grip and slide with no other changes. The grips swap regardless of year. The slide on the other hand was slightly changed in about 2016 or 2017 to accommodate the captive recoil spring assembly and the only change regarding that was a slightly larger guide rod hole in the muzzle end of the slide. Walther also still has the original long, non captive recoil spring assemblies because they are still required in CA. It's not that they are any better......CA just requires that once a pistol is approved....manufacturers can't change it. Even something as simple as a guide rod new style. On the other hand to make an original slide work with the captive recoil spring assembly the only mod to the pistol is to drill out the guide rod hole to 1/4" and put the new part in. The zinc is soft, similar to aluminum and easily drilled with no special equipment. Just a sharp bit.

The frame of the pistol cannot be ordered....it is the part that has the serial number on it and is considered by the BATF to be the pistol. There seems to be some confusion regarding what is and isn't the frame. On this pistol there is a two part frame that contains all of the fire control components. If push came to shove...the grips could be removed, a magazine locked in, a round chambered and the pistol fired. The only thing required would be to hold the slide so it would not move too far rearward and dislodge from the frame. The slide stop performs that function when the grip is installed.

Other polymer pistols...PPQ, P99, Glock, etc. don't have an internal frame. The grips are the frame because on those pistols the polymer grip (frame) holds those components in place. Without the grips....you have no functional pistol, not even close.

But back to your original question....yes you can update the grip and slide on your old P22 and if you let Ft Smith know what you have they can send you an early Q slide that requires no changes and will accommodate the original non captive recoil spring or any of the aftermarket assemblies with exception of the Walther make which has a larger diameter. 1917
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Old 05-03-2021, 09:37 AM
1917-1911M
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Oh yes, I remember now. You are in Europe and parts are none existent. You do have a very, very lightly used pistol. Perhaps not even previously fired except by the factory. You do have the new hammer style which sometimes benefits from just a fit of modification to barely remove the tip on the face. You can see it because that is where the finish is wearing. An inspection of your trigger bar ears or the underside of the slide where they are hit will tell you if they are sharp on the top, front edge. From the chew marks I see they look sharp.

Since replacement slides are problematic you might consider the #83 O ring over the recoil spring. That will soften the impact of the muzzle cup against the polymer slide top. A buffer if you will. One does not work well with the new Walther captive recoil spring due to a sharp washer that is part of the assembly. I'm not sure how they will hold up with Tamdemcross and other aftermarket recoil spring assemblies. It won't hurt the pistol though to try one out. If it has a negative effect on cycling just remove it. It is nothing but a rubber O ring.

Are you going to tell the Members here what a P22 costs in Turkey? They won't believe it. I've paid less for used cars. If you get to the States and can somehow get a pistol home....I'd suggest one of the Ruger MK series. They are extremely durable. 1917
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