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  #31  
Old 01-27-2020, 12:24 AM
HUSHKABOOM
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Looking good. Kind of a waste of time to sand with the fine grits before heat treat. If you go back to the belt sander use extreme care on the thin areas. They heat up quick!
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  #32  
Old 01-27-2020, 12:25 AM
HUSHKABOOM
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The online peddlers sell some dip that will coat carbon steel and help keep scale to a minimum.
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  #33  
Old 01-27-2020, 12:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmist View Post
I'm in Lebanon county.

Here's what my friend made me for quenching... Awesome !!! All stainless steel. 12 in tall, 4 in diameter, bottom plate 8 in. More than I'll ever need.
I watch a smith on TV making a knife, and explained in detail, the seriousness of the quenching process, and one that that not many know, but must know. The quenching tank much be facing north and south, and set up with a compass to be sure. Over the years he had learned from other smiths, why this is to be this way. If the tank is facing too much to the right, and the quench the blade, it will bend to the north... left. Something maybe some of you do not know. I am not a knife maker, but going on a man who makes all kinds of things and was passing along his wisdom, and I found it interesting.
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  #34  
Old 01-27-2020, 07:52 AM
brucegodlesky
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the magnetic quench stuff is hogwash in my opinion.....
Brownells sells a really good anti-scale coating. Works great!
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  #35  
Old 01-27-2020, 10:51 AM
rmist
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Question... Once finished cleaning it up what is the angle for the actual blade edge to be ground?

Tried grinding another little knife from left over O1 stock. Still hard as can be to get both sides the same!! Need to grind a little more off the top edge spine. Looks a little off.
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  #36  
Old 01-27-2020, 11:17 AM
rmist
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Both sides...
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  #37  
Old 01-27-2020, 09:50 PM
HUSHKABOOM
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20' to 25' degrees. 20 for a slicer and 25 for better durability during rough use.
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  #38  
Old 01-28-2020, 05:56 PM
rmist
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Thank you...that's what I needed. I'll probably split the difference of 20 and 25.

What do you normally grind blade to?
I think this was about 4 degrees.

Hand sanded scale off. That's tough to get out. There's a little bit yet. Figured I'd make it worse if back on the belt grinder.
Made the sanding block. How thick is yours? I only had a piece 1/4" thick and glued the hard rubber on.

Again, thanks for the help!!
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  #39  
Old 01-30-2020, 07:57 AM
brucegodlesky
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To get rid of scale after HT, soak over night in a pan of vinegar.
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  #40  
Old 01-30-2020, 08:31 PM
HUSHKABOOM
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My sanding block is actually something like 3/6 thick x 1 1/4 wide by 10" or so long with the rubber on the wide flat. Helps knock down the high spots and make the grinds flatter. Also makes for a little more work. I have never tried to figure out the angle of the flat grinds. I just grind until the edge is the thickness I want and the grind reaches close to the spine.
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  #41  
Old 01-31-2020, 06:23 PM
rmist
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Your sanding block is more like a file shape ...correct?

Used some of the anti scale compound. Worked a lot better even on this small knife. Still a little bit, but tons less than without!
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  #42  
Old 01-31-2020, 09:57 PM
rmist
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Have some more cleanup on this one. But it's enough for tonight.
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  #43  
Old 02-01-2020, 04:01 PM
HUSHKABOOM
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Best to have several sanding blocks. One could be from bar stock like you grind the blade from and another with medium hardness rubber glued on. I use the all metal one first to get rid of high spots and flatten the blade and the rubber faced one to get a clean nice looking finish. A file can work but the teeth will cut through the paper and gouge the finish. You could use an old file with the teeth belt sanded off but you will fight the taper when wrapping the paper around it. Best to use metal that is softer than your heat treated blade. You are doing nice work by the way!
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  #44  
Old 02-07-2020, 06:47 PM
brucegodlesky
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I make my sanding blocks from micarta.
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  #45  
Old 02-10-2020, 05:40 AM
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Sanding blocks...............

I made my sanding block from a solder paddle used for auto body lead work, I added a cork face. It uses 1" roll abraisive secured by an angled cut on top of the tip, the end of the strip is simply held by the fingers. For small detail work I use and art gum eraser with wet or dry paper, my wetting agent is WD-40. I have used these for years to do all my polishing on knives and firearms.
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