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  #16  
Old 11-26-2020, 07:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azshot View Post
I'm not sure I'd bother. These scopes are commonly found at gun shows and flea markets for $20. The ebay prices are as normal, 2-3 times that much. But how much is your time worth? Buying balsam lens cement, learning how to center optical elements, taking the thing apart without loosing anything, is a lot of work. Perhaps days and weeks. And you end up with a scope that is a lot worse than a $30 Weaver K-4 or G-4 of the same period. I'd just buy another one, in good shape. Or upgrade to a Weaver or other make, like I did.
I know this is an old thread, but for what it’s worth...

Couple of comments: you had better be darn sure of what you’re doing before you use Norland (UV) cured cement. It will not forgive you if you misalign or get air bubbles between lenses (which is easy), and need to redo/separate the lenses, so be very sure of what you’re doing before you tackle this. MethyChoride is the only way to separate a doublet, if you screw up. And, if the lens sits very long, methychloride won’t work (and the lens is basically toast).

I used Norland for a while, and it’s very good, but you need to be very careful. It won’t forgive you. For me, after a couple of “mess ups”, I went back to the old school cement ... Canadian Balsam. It cures slowly, but when you’re dealing with
a lens you cannot replace, why the hurry? And CB will last forever if you take care and keep your scope out of a hot car/truck, which is where lens separation begins.

One other comment ... Someone said something about using super glue... Optical cements are specially designed to have a refractive index close to either glass or leaded glass (flint glass). I would be very careful with using anything that isn’t a optical “tried and true” recommended cement.

If I can help anyone, please PM me. I clean and repair fixed power scopes as a hobby.

Hope these comments help someone out there keep from destroying one of our pieces of history. They just don’t make em anymore these old scopes anymore 😞

Let me know if I can help.
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  #17  
Old 12-02-2020, 08:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azshot View Post
These scopes are commonly found at gun shows and flea markets for $20.
Hey, would you mind buying four or five of those M4C scopes for me and mailing them North?
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  #18  
Old 12-06-2020, 10:53 AM
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Thumbs up Iron Sight

Quote:
Originally Posted by L2ACR View Post
Iron Sight Inc. http://ironsightinc.com/index.php?route=common/home may be able to completely rebuild the scope, new seals, new gas and new lense if needed. They have all of the old stock from the original manufacture for the Weaver 3/4" .22 scopes. Give them a call with the scope model number ready. Probably cost $95 for a rebuild. I had them rebuild 4 old scopes and they do a First Class Quality job!
I used Iron Sight in March 2020 to rebuild a Redfield 10X scope that was manufactured in the 1970's. I am very happy with the work, new mil dot reticle, and time to complete the work. Their communication with me was top notch.
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  #19  
Old 02-04-2021, 08:19 PM
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Hello, new member here. I have been searching for information on a vintage wollensak scope. The trail has led me here! Mr Int31cm please I could sure use some help with my scope.

Thanks, Mike
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  #20  
Old 02-04-2021, 08:44 PM
bone

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Mike welcome aboard, you will probably have better luck sending him a pm. Just click on his screen name and select message or email him.
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  #21  
Old 03-02-2021, 06:24 PM
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Bumping this thread again to update my adventure!
I was suggested that I pm Int31cm for help. I did so and he responded with his phone number and an invite to call. We had several conversations and he sent me 2 lenses to try.
After more research and some patience I reassembled the scope with the 2 replacements and was more than pleased with the results!
Int31cm was very knowledgeable and willing to help. I would not hesitate to pm him with questions about vintage scopes.
1940 Savage 6A 50' ( not yards ) indoors. 2 - 10 round groups.
Turns out the scope alone is worth almost what I paid for the rifle with scope. 😁
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  #22  
Old 03-02-2021, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Sarge756 View Post
Not so sure about a super glue for this. The working time 1-3 seconds would make me a little nervous. You do have to position the 2 sections and be sure all the air bubbles are gone. I see that seller on Fleabay offers the lot 61 Optical cement in small quantities of 1 and 2 ml.

https://www.ebay.com/i/171185267060?chn=ps
What is "fleabay"? I'm familiar with eBay, a great source for needed items, never heard of the other site.
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  #23  
Old 03-02-2021, 06:55 PM
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Thanks MRTNH72! If anyone needs help (or an old vintage scope, I have several in my collection), let me know. As I mentioned to MRTNH72, I don’t by any means know it all, that’s a given, but I will do my best to help. I have a passion for preserving these old scopes.
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  #24  
Old 03-03-2021, 04:06 PM
CDSteding
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I have been going over few Weaver J 4 and J 2.5 scopes. Cleaned and reglued the lens and even reblued the tubes. The crosshairs are the part that I haven't mastered as yet. Found the right wire, just not the right technique to replace them on the brass reticle. Any suggestions, any would be appreciated greatly!
Chris
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  #25  
Old 03-03-2021, 07:13 PM
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Some years back there was a good article in The ASSRA Journal about how to do it; involved making an oversize jig plate that held the element centered and (iirc) the wires were held across by locating 'pins' and weighted to keep the tension on since they dont stretch.
A lot of the old wires were held by solder or even micro-screws but Superglue Gel was mentioned for now.
Id be a lot more confident in using SG for this that gluing lenses back together!
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  #26  
Old 03-04-2021, 08:57 PM
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I have not mastered soldering wire yet. The problem I have had is keeping the wire (tungsten) taunt after the brass ring it is attached to cools off, which causes the wire to relax, albeit ever so slightly. I have tried a heat sink and still no luck. Would love to hear how to do it if anyone knows how. A jig is definitely needed. Anyone care to share??

The next best alternative works pretty good for me, which is using unwaxed dental floss, along with locktite super glue (gel) . The technique here is to separate the floss into individual strands, then pick out one strand and use as the “wire” (I estimate a single strand of floss to be approximately 0.001 to 0.0005 inch in diameter, which is a good diameter for most fine wire target reticles). When handling the floss be sure and use care to keep the “wire” clean. Dust loves this stuff so I use latex gloves and a clean space. The slightest debris will look like a log.

I glue the “wire” to the reticle using Locktite super glue gel. It drys fast and the gel provides enough “solid” or matrix to keep the super glue where you place it. Not too hard to do and I have found the “wire” looks really good (I cannot see the difference when done right).

That said, I hope someone can share on the soldering and the jig mentioned previously. I have several different diameters of tungsten someone gave me, but I have pulled my hair out trying to make it work.

Thanks!

Last edited by Int31cm; 03-04-2021 at 09:05 PM.
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