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  #16  
Old 09-30-2020, 10:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bone View Post
Havenít thought that far ahead yet. Probably a cold blue Solution.

Thanks to all.
Vans ?
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I'm an old blued steel and wood pusher. NMCA # 2047
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  #17  
Old 09-30-2020, 05:26 PM
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Vans ?
not sure yet, I have a couple different types to experiment with.
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  #18  
Old 09-30-2020, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by bone View Post
not sure yet, I have a couple different types to experiment with.

I've only used Birchwood Casey,with actually good results.
But I'd like to do better, if possible?

Have you ever used Oxpho?
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  #19  
Old 09-30-2020, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by rosscoe View Post
I've only used Birchwood Casey,with actually good results.
But I'd like to do better, if possible?

Have you ever used Oxpho?
I have some, but have never used it on any big projects. The brownells paste seems to work better on the smaller parts, but requires heating of the material to remove the moisture.
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  #20  
Old 09-30-2020, 09:32 PM
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I have some, but have never used it on any big projects. The brownells paste seems to work better on the smaller parts, but requires heating of the material to remove the moisture.

" heating of the material to remove the moisture."

That's a good "tip".
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  #21  
Old 10-01-2020, 08:04 AM
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I found Vans a very good cold Blue. Also the laser depending on Model Should be able to etch the serrations. Depends on the programer?
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  #22  
Old 10-12-2020, 04:57 PM
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Just got an update on the cams and also a picture. Should be on there way back tomorrow.
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  #23  
Old 10-13-2020, 06:33 AM
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Those cams came out beautiful, I think you found your guy. As far as bluing goes I have had good luck with a Lee melting pot ($69.95) and Brownells Nitreblue bluing salts (about the same cost $70 +/-$1) . The stuff lasts forever. Played around with the temperature control knob on the Lee pot and settled on 7. Now I just plug it in and go to work. All your parts would easily fit. The bluing effect is better than any cold blue that I ever used. Both in appearance and durability, but I have not tried all the cold bluing formulas. There are several U Tube videos on how to do it, plus if you ever had a question just ask. Here are some photos of an original #3 sight I did over
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20201004_201427_1602588573389.jpg (219.1 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20201004_201313_1602588672631.jpg (209.4 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20201004_201251_1602588816707.jpg (206.3 KB, 8 views)
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  #24  
Old 10-13-2020, 08:32 AM
bone

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Thanks for the info, I have looked at them before. But never followed through with them. Looks like it did a great job on the sight.
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  #25  
Old 10-13-2020, 09:05 AM
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If you would like, you can send a part or two and I would be happy to blue them as a test sample and send them back for your evaluation.
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  #26  
Old 10-13-2020, 10:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDSteding View Post
If you would like, you can send a part or two and I would be happy to blue them as a test sample and send them back for your evaluation.
Thanks for the offer, once I get every thing in hand I may take you up on it.
Terry
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  #27  
Old 10-13-2020, 11:57 PM
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  #28  
Old 10-24-2020, 06:49 PM
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Found a little time to make and blue a few parts today. Still waiting on one more order to come in, should be here next week. Lets hope it will work as I think it will.

A few pictures, I ended up getting a Lee Pot as mention above. Still experimenting with it. Had to go over a few parts to darken them up to my liking. The lighting plays with the eyes in the photos making the blueing look weak on some parts.
]

Last edited by bone; 11-25-2020 at 07:15 PM.
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  #29  
Old 10-26-2020, 08:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bone View Post
Had to go over a few parts to darken them up to my liking.
If you want bluing that is DARK... Try G96... Liquid or Creme Gun Blue...
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  #30  
Old 10-26-2020, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solddaboat View Post
If you want bluing that is DARK... Try G96... Liquid or Creme Gun Blue...
Havenít tried those, I use the brownells paste as a backup
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