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Old 02-04-2014, 08:49 PM
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Smile Factory Stock Ruger 10/22 Step by Step



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If you have been around RFC for a while (I’ve been here since 2003) and in the 10/22 section specifically you have seen at least a few posts that go something like this:
“I just bought a new 10/22 what mods should I do to it?

This brought me to,
Bang for the buck.

A few months ago I hatched a plan to see which 10/22 modifications work the best, or more correctly which mods make the most improvement. So instead of, “I did a trigger, barrel, and bolt” (all at once) I am going to do the mods one at a time.

This isn’t going to be a budget build, I am only going to upgrade the stock rifle, when I am finished the rifle will be as close to stock as I can make it. (No aftermarket barrel, stock etc.)

I spoke w/your moderator Dr. Gunner (at length) who helped me develop the idea further and here is what we came up with:

~Which Modification Makes the most difference to a stock 10/22’s reliability and accuracy?~


Let’s agree that usually the recommendations to fix the 10/22’s are,
~Trigger Job~
~Re-Chamber barrel~
~Address bolt issues (aka bolt job) radius bolt body, pin & re-shape firing pin, replace extractor~
~Charging Handle~


In order to find out which mods make the most difference I will make one change, shoot the rifle with 3 types of ammo (from the same lot) and score the groups.

I plan to use CCI Blazer, Federal Auto Match and CCI Mini Mags. I figure with the current ammo situation, those are fairly representative of what is out there without going exotic or sub sonic (and at frankly it is what I have the most of)


To that end I went out and bought 2 new 100% stock 10/22’s.


Rifle # 1 (here after referred to as ‘827’ for its serial number prefix) is a K10/22 RBBRBZ Model #01273
http://www.ruger.com/products/1022Ca...eets/1273.html

Rifle # 2 (here after referred to as ‘826’ for its serial number prefix) is a K10/22 RB-BBZ Model #01109
http://www.ruger.com/products/1022Ca...eets/1109.html

The Process, Step by step


Step 1, Measure the trigger pull on each rifle.
To accomplish this, I am going to use my Lyman Digital trigger pull gauge and take an average of 20. I am going to dry fire the rifle 20 times and get an average trigger pull.

Step 2, Disassemble and clean each rifle.

Step 3, Reassemble each rifle and mount a Weaver # 849398 3 - 9 x 32 Adj. Obj. Matte Dual-X scope. http://www.opticsplanet.com/weaver-r...v10-10x50.html I am going to use the factory supplied Ruger mount http://www.midwayusa.com/product/959...ProductFinding and my favorite Leupold Rifleman rings (Low) http://www.midwayusa.com/product/136...s-weaver-style

Step 4, Repeat step 1.

Step 5, Sight in and break-in rifle with 50 rounds of CCI Blazer.

Step 6, Break down and clean rifle.

Step 7, Re-assemble rifle and check trigger pull as described in Step 1 & Step 4.

Last edited by FlysAlot; 04-10-2017 at 09:41 AM.
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Old 02-04-2014, 08:49 PM
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Initial Trigger pull results

Well the trusty Lyman Scale reveled the following:

827 (The Stainless Carbine) trigger pull (avg of 20 pulls)
High 7.35lbs.
Low 6.10 lbs


Average Trigger Pull 6.46 lbs

826 trigger pull (avg of 20 pulls)
High 7.15
Low 6.11


Average Trigger Pull 6.14 lbs


Notes: The trigger group in 827 wobbles ever so slightly (polymer group) and I feel that wobble might be the 1/2 ounce difference between the two rifles.

Happily the trigger pull of 826 feels like it is going to really benefit from some trigger work. While stupidly heavy, I'm feeling pretty good about the potential of this group. (all of this was data regarding 'which trigger is better was later proved wrong)

Last edited by FlysAlot; 04-10-2017 at 09:46 AM.
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Old 02-04-2014, 08:50 PM
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826 & 827


Here is 826

For Chaser!


Pretty Dirty



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Old 02-04-2014, 08:50 PM
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Trigger Pull Results (after initial Cleaning & Lubrication)

I disassembled and cleaned both rifles today and mounted the scope bases

The "from the factory trigger pull weights" are listed in a post above, here are the results post cleaning:
This goes to prove you can't go into something like this with any preconceived notions.

827 (The Stainless Carbine) trigger pull (avg of 20 pulls)
Before Cleaning High 7.35lbs.
After Cleaning High 8.00 lbs (It got worse?!)

Before Cleaning Low 6.10 lbs
After Cleaning Low 6.11 lbs

Average Trigger Pull 6.46 lbs Before Cleaning
Average Trigger Pull 6.48 lbs After Cleaning (Never expected this, nearly identical)


826 trigger pull (avg of 20 pulls)
Before Cleaning High 7.15 lbs
After Cleaning High 8.05 lbs (as above it got worse the more you lubricated it?!)

Before Cleaning Low 6.11 low
After Cleaning Low 6.12 lbs

Average Trigger Pull 6.14 lbs Before Cleaning
Average Trigger Pull 7.30 lbs After Cleaning (OK, this was the 'seemingly' more consistent group and it got worse!?)


Assumptions I made (all proven wrong)
1. The trigger pull would get better with time (maybe, but not after cleaning & proper lubrication)

2. It isn't the fact that the rifles have stupidly heavy triggers, the issue is that the rifles have such wide swings in the pull weight (nearly 2 lbs between high and low) how could you ever know when the rifle would fire?

3. 827 (The Stainless Carbine) has a slight amount of fore-aft play in the group. I was positive this play was increasing the trigger pull by about 1/2 ounce. The second trigger pull test showed that 827 has settled down somewhat but 826 (whose group has no detectable fore-aft play) trigger pull has gotten worse.

Next step is to test the control trigger group(s) (The unmodified ones) which will go into these rifles when their factory triggers are modified) I intend to test each group as above in each rifle. I have already labeled these trigger groups as 6C and 7C (for 826 Control and 827 Control)
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Old 02-04-2014, 08:50 PM
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Ready for the Weaver 3x9x33 A/O!
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Old 02-04-2014, 08:50 PM
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Update 2/28/2014

Well 2014 has started out as a pretty crummy year and this project has taken a backseat to life. Today I rallied it was a BEAUTIFUL day in North Central Florida so I took the twins out for a stroll.

I made a slight change and mounted a stainless 2x7 Weaver RV-7 scope on 827 because it just looked better. To be fair, I set both scopes at 7x power. The first test consisted of final sighting in of the rifles and firing 50 rounds of CCI Blazer through each rifle. I had zero issues and am happy to report 100% reliability with the stock rifle. (which surprised me)

I don't have a ton of experience with precision shooting but feel I did OK as the targets soon to be posted will show. I've come to one conclusion already. When it comes to what mod makes the most difference in accuracy the answer is, 'It depends on your particular rifle'. So I managed to make a few tests on each rifle.

I fired each rifle 25 rounds and then 25 more with the barrel band removed (it wasn't part of my initial plan but it came to me today)

* 827 (The stainless steel rifle) actually shot better w/out the barrel band. I couldn't notice a difference in 826.

* The addition of a Kidd drop in group helped. It actually took me awhile to get used to the light pull. THAT threw me off for a bit.

So far, shooting the rifle makes the most difference in accuracy.
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Old 02-04-2014, 08:50 PM
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Here's S/N #826's (The blued rifle) First target. Scope was bore sighted only shot February 28, 2014

Here's S/N #827's First Target


Remember I was going to break in each rifle with 50 rounds of CCI Blazer. Well I shot the Blazer but These are no break in, first targets. Room for improvement to be sure. Notice the vertical stringing and the group size, average about 1.75 at 25 yards stock.

Here's Target #2 from s/n 826 This is a completely stock rifle, no barrel band.

Not bad, not great. In my mind no real change I felt myself settling down a bit with that trigger... UGGH my finger began to hurt!

Here is s/n 827 with no barrel band. This rifle clearly benefits from no band, I'm fairly impressed with much of this target! (Except where I fell apart on target #4) some good some bad. Again, the point to notice is the inconsistent groupings, some good some not so good.


Next steps... Clean each rifle and swap the trigger group with a Kidd Drop in kit. (Actually I shot 826 with a Kidd group during this session (but didn't score the groups, just playing around). What I noticed is that it took me awhile to settle down with the much lighter trigger. I mean my first groups were rough. Almost no improvement. I was getting hungry and I wanted to get home)
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Last edited by FlysAlot; 09-10-2014 at 09:35 AM.
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Old 02-04-2014, 08:51 PM
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The Chickens Come Home to Roost, The Truth Shall Set You Free, Cold Hard Light of Day

May 1, 2014 Update... Some good, some REALLY BAD!

In other words... If it's gonna be accurate, it's gonna have to prove it at 50 yards...

Well It's been awhile, had to put down a beloved pet, Mom & Dad aren't doing well, work, life all sorts of things have gotten in the way of my test to see what makes a difference in accuracy to a stock 10/22.

So I took the rifles out today. It's about 80F, wind out of the south at about 15 knots (I shoot at an east/west range) the guy on one side was shooting an M-16 (really and for true) The other guy was shooting a shorty AR-15 with an 10" barrel (LOUD) I couldn't set up my rest so I used a Caldwell bag.

Since we last chatted I have installed Kidd Drop in trigger kits on these stock rifles. Trigger pulls went from an average of 6 ish pounds to a very predictable 1.75 lbs with the trigger on the Silver rifle (827) feeling better (to me) than the blue rifle (826)

You guys asked for 50 yards and better ammo, here's what happened!

Oh my 50 yards with CCI Blazer! Pretty good for a stock rifle with only a trigger job! (But wait there's more!)

Stock Rifle, Weaver 2x7 scope, 50 yards!
It WAS loud and hot. Apologies for the flyer it was all me when the guy next to me dumped a magazine full auto...


So I've got some flyer issues. I shot a bunch of SK Rifle Match, shot like crap in both rifles. These rifles like CCI Blazer and they love CCI Standard Velocity. 50 yards is about all I can do with a 2x7 scope. Observations, 827 hates its barrel band. put it on the rifle patters, off it shoots like a champ!
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Old 02-04-2014, 08:51 PM
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And Here is the UGLY (REALLY UGLY)

May 1, 2014... I hope I left the action screw off (or something) uggh

Here are the 50 yard targets shot by the blue rifle s/n 826. I tried SK Match, CCI Standard, CCI Blazer, barrel band on and off. All about the same and this was with a 9x scope... these are representative groups I shot 100 rounds through this rifle today. 50 CCI Blazer, 25 SK Match, 25 CCI Standard velocity. The groups all sucked.




I'm not at all sure what the heck happened! All I did was put in a Kidd drop in trigger kit.

I am happy to report that now with 200+ rounds through each 100% stock rifle, I've had zero reliability issues. Not one. So far that and the accuracy of the stock rifle amaze me.
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Old 02-04-2014, 08:51 PM
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May 15, 2014 Update...

Getting ready for the range, Mittens is guarding:


When I last updated, s/n 826 had begun to pattern like a shotgun. I took the gun down and tightened everything and put the gun back 100% stock 25 yards just to get on target:

Not bad but still a flyer or two so I put in a CPC modded Ruger Factory bolt (pinned firing pin and radiused ends)

I think I'm on to something here! That's 50 yards with a 100% stock rifle only a modded bolt!
Next it was 827's turn... Lot's of flyers at 50 yards:

Swapped in the CPC modded bolt and:

WOO HOO! So then the tornado warnings hit and I decided to call it a day.

Here's what I have learned so far:
1. The barrel band makes a difference (in some rifles) 827 clearly likes no band. In 826 it doesn't seem to make a difference.
2. A good trigger just makes you smoother and honestly pulling that heavy clunky thing will eventually mess your accuracy up. I'm finding even a 1.75lb Kidd seems heavy to me now for fun I shot my 6oz 2 stage at rocks on the berm at 120 yards, VERY FUN!
3. A 2x7 is just not enough scope for fine target work at 50 yards and it IS limiting me. The Weaver 3x9 a/o on s/n 826 is better but more magnification would be better!
4. In my experience the pinned bolt has so far eliminated my flyers. I can't really see a huge accuracy change but the flyers have seemed to disappear.
5. So much for 10/22's not shooting well. Zero failures of any kind, 100% reliability.


Guess I'd better send the barrels out!

Last edited by FlysAlot; 05-28-2014 at 05:09 PM.
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Old 02-04-2014, 08:51 PM
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Update May 24-25-26
It's the last hurrah's for my step-by-step builds. I've taken the rifles as far as I can without doing any barrel work, So here's an update:
I've given up on the factory trigger. It's at best 6.5lbs and very inconstant. I've been shooting the rifles modified as follows:

S/N 826 has a Kidd drop in trigger job/kit (ONLY)
S/N 827 has a Kidd drop in trigger job/kit & a CPC pinned/headspaced and radiused bolt.




Here's the final 50 yard group from 827 (the 2x7 scope is very limiting!

Here's the final 50 yard group from 826


These are not cherry picked groups. they are just random samples. Again, all groups shot with CCI Standard Velocity Ammo! It's time to have these factory barrels re-chambered!

OK so for all you haters... Here's 2 100 yard groups with CCI Standard Velocity shot just for fun. Again, basically stock rifles.
826 (that Weaver 3x9 scope REALLY Helps at 100 yards!

827 at 100 yards with a Weaver 2x7 (I could barely see the target!)


So... Tell me again what you need to do to a box stock 10/22 to make it shoot? Don't give me any crap about these 2 rifles being special or different. They are from 2 different serial ranges and made from different materials (well, the barrels are anyway)

I've come to some conclusions.

1. After putting 710 rounds through each rifle, I can tell you the groups shrunk because I have spent a TON of time behind the trigger (Doing my part)
2. S/N 827 had flyers with every type of ammo, the pinned bolt eliminated them completely.
3. S/N 827 shoots better with no barrel band. It doesn't seem to make a difference on S/N 826
4. S/N 826 has had issues with flyers but they were shooter induced and so it still sports a 100% factory stock bolt.
5. ANY (let me say that again) ANY loose screw, scope mount, etc. will kill accuracy. Check for loose screws often!

At 100 yards, match ammo makes a big difference!

Last edited by FlysAlot; 05-28-2014 at 05:21 PM.
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Old 02-04-2014, 08:52 PM
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Update June 20-21-22

I had the barrels cryo'd. This wasn't part of the plan nor is it a 'normal' 10/22 mod but it fit in nicely with my plans. Now 1010 rounds through each rifle with zero failures of any kind! The cryo treatment does help the barrels stay REALLY clean!

There targets were shot with the following mods:
s/n 826:
Kidd drop in trigger group
s/n 827:
Kidd drop in trigger group
CPC modded bolt

Here's the required pictures!


After pulling the barrels for treatment, back to square 1! Sighting s/n 826 in at 25 yards!

And of course here's 827 sighted in at 25 yards

Of course then we step to the Wailing Wall... 50 yards with s/n 826 BUT, that's a sub 3/4 group! BUT I'm getting a few 3/4 groups and a few 1 inch groups... I'm missing a consistent rifle!

Here's the first of 827's 50 yard groups... With a barrel band.

And here's another s/n 827 group w/out the barrel band. I think there's a lot of shooter error in that group, I wasn't feeling well. AND again, I'll get a few great groups and a few meah groups.

So I'm home, the rifles will be broken down in the next day or 2 and I will send everything off for a barrel re-chamber! We are closing in on things kids!
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Old 02-04-2014, 08:52 PM
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June 28, 2014 Update
Pulled the rifles down tonight for cleaning and packing for shipment for their barrel re-chamber. I thought while I was at it, I'd clean up the receivers with Scotch-Brite. Remember after 1,000+ rounds, I haven't had one single failure so this step was mostly cosmetic and a little pride of ownership. The bolt sounded like it was running in sand till I smoothed things out.
Here's s/n 826 (before)

And after (took about 30 minutes)

Here is s/n 827 (before)

And after

Just for fun
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Old 02-04-2014, 08:52 PM
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Well... WOW... Never thought I'd get here... Lot's of setbacks lots of eye opening experiences. I took the rifles out early this morning for the final tests.

Lets update the modifications:

S/N 826 (The Blue one)
Weaver 3x9 A/O rimfire scope
Kidd drop in trigger kit
Factory Bolt
Barrel cryo treated
Factory Barrel re-chambered by CPC


S/N 827 (The Silver One)
Weaver 3x9 A/O rimfire scope
Kidd drop in trigger kit
Bolt radisued and pinned by CPC (aka a bolt job)
Barrel cryo treated
Factory Barrel re-chambered by CPC

So here are the results!



Yup this was ALWAYS meant to be a bulk ammo test and here are the results with CCI Blazer that's a sub 3/4 group w/bulk ammo


That's a 1" group at 100 yards with Federal Gold Metal Match. Actually there were some better ones but that was one of 15 (100 yard groups) I shot.
I didn't post any 50 yard 'good' ammo targets, suffice it to say they were pretty impressive.

EDIT: S/N 826 objected to the poor group I posted... Here's a 100 Yard target



Finally had my first "issues"! 4 rounds of CCI Standard velocity required 2 hits to make them go 'bang' Oh and I shot 827 with the barrel band and it seemed to no longer matter. (Well the rifle shot really well so I thought, why bother taking off the barrel band?)

All in all Factory Stock (mostly) 10/22's as reliable as a good watch.... I'm pretty happy! Conclusions to follow Monday evening when I get home.
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Old 02-04-2014, 10:20 PM
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So you just bought a new Ruger 10/22 and you want to know what modifications give you the most value for your hard earned dollar.

You can’t gimmick or bolt on accuracy, you achieve it by lots and lots of practice. (And a few thoughtful modifications)


In January 2014 I purchased -2- Ruger 10/22’s with the goal of making one modification at a time and seeing how far I could take them.

The quote below pretty much sums things up. Here we go!

“…I see so many members join and try to build a sub MOA 10-22.
Shooting groups under 1/2" at 50 yards takes practice, good ammo, and skill.
I wonder how many who build a rifle and are dissatisfied with its performance have even proven themselves capable of shooting sub MOA consistently with any other rifle? And if their self-built 10-22 represents their first attempt at doing so, I'm not surprised that it doesn't happen right away.
If we are honest with ourselves, the 10-22 platform just is NOT the best proving ground… for ultimate accuracy. Yes, these rifles can be MADE to shoot exceptionally well, but it would serve many shooters better to learn the basics of good repeatable mechanics with a solid bolt action before even trying with a semi auto.”

Dr. Gunner from RFC - June 7, 2014

(The above is pretty much ‘it’… It’s you, 94+% of 10/22 accuracy is the shooter

if you’d like you can skip the rest)

If your goal is to take a basically stock 10/22 just as far as it can go, this is the place for you. We will make numerous small changes to get where we want to be, an accurate and reliable 10/22.
Initially I simply wanted to see how well I could make a factory rifle shoot. That idea morphed into seeing how close to a ½ group at 50 yards I could get.

(Spoiler Alert, I never made it. Oh I shot some 1/2 inch 50 yard groups but mostly I managed consistent 3/4 inch groups.)


• Step 1
• Have a plan; be honest about your skills and realistic with your expectations!

The reason this is so important is that it determines what you need, what you expect to get out of your rifle and how you are going to get there.

The reason we do these mods one at a time and in this order is, so that in case you get a real lemon 10/22, all you have to do is take off your scope and send the rifle back for repair/replacement. You won’t lose a ton of expensive parts or your time. (If you send a modified rifle to Ruger, they might throw away all non-factory parts which is NOT good bang for your buck!)

I have two mostly stock factory rifles that shoot consistent 3/4” groups at 50 yards with CCI Standard Velocity ammo. It took me a LONG time to get there. That was only the beginning though, the trigger job helped but it did NOT make the rifles consistent which was my goal.

What sort of rifle do you want? Every build will be a compromise. An ‘all around’ rifle is a difficult concept to pin down. In some cases, a stock rifle with a trigger job might be enough. Remember, better is the enemy of good. So we’ll take things step-by-step.

• Step 1a
Buy 4-5 factory (FACTORY) 10 round magazines (You’ll need them)

• Step 1b
Get a bunch of ammo
(Get a few bricks of something semi decent like CCI Standard Velocity) bulk ammo just isn’t consistent enough to do lots of testing. With ammo, you get what you pay for!

• Step 1c
Run 3-4 patches through the bore.

• Step 1d
• Mount your scope. Minimum scope would be a 3-9, more scope is worth it!

• Scopes
Scopes are a touchy issue. When thinking/planning for a scope a few things to remember:

1. You get exactly what you pay for.
2. Like most things in this life, there are no good short cuts. There’s a reason that no matter what they cost, Leupold, Swarovski, Zeiss, et.al. Are still in business, they can sell expensive scopes because they are worth every cent. Just about as good for ½ the cost… Isn’t.
3. Take your time and mount your scope correctly. Use a good base (I used the Ruger factory base & had no issues but there are others out there.)
4. Use good rings. I use Leupold rifleman (the aluminum ones) and have had good luck with them. It’s ultimately your choice, just buy good scope rings.
5. Check everything often to make sure things are tight. If your groups suddenly go wonky 9 times out of 10 it’s a scope issue.
6. If all else fails with your scope, review items 1, 2 & 5.

• Step 2
• Shoot the rifle A LOT

I can’t emphasize this enough. I didn’t get where I needed to be till I had 500 rounds through each rifle. I didn’t feel comfortable till after 800+ rounds.
You need the breaking in and happily after about 500 rounds (ish) you and the rifle will arrive at the same place and with a better understanding of each other, good and/or bad. Oh, I cleaned my rifles, from the muzzle end using a steel cleaning rod and a bronze brush, feel free to burn me at the stake.
Understand that the rifle usually doesn’t have a bad day, but you often do. It’s a real pain hauling all the stuff to the range, setting up etc. TAKE YOUR TIME! You can’t shoot accurately if you are stressed out or sick, etc. I remember many times rushing to the range, setting up and just sitting at the bench really distracted, that makes for poor results.
Shoot 5 shot groups at 25 yards till everything is perfect.

Most importantly remember enjoy the process, it’s a journey! There are a bunch of places that teach marksmanship:

http://appleseedinfo.org/
http://www.millettsights.com/resourc...sion-shooting/
http://www.luckygunner.com/lounge/kn...-shoot-groups/

• Step 3 (Finally! Something you can bolt on to your 10/22!)

• Buy the best trigger you can. Cost: $35 - $270.00

In my testing, I used a:
* CPC-modified factory group
* A Kidd drop in kit
* A Volquartsen 2000 Trigger group
* A Brimstone modified unit. (if I had a Swampfox group I’m sure it would have been just as good)

~Trigger brand is a personal choice~


All aftermarket triggers were light years better than the factory unit. In fact it quickly became obvious that any of the aftermarket groups were so consistent it really didn’t matter which one I had in the rifle,

~Any aftermarket 10/22 trigger is better than a factory unit~

It did take time to get used to the different triggers so give yourself lots of trigger time when you make changes.

~The rifles shot 100% better with any/all of the aftermarket groups~


The factory unit had swings in pull up to +/- 1.75 lbs. with a starting average pull weight of 6.5lbs. It is impossible to be accurate with an inconsistent trigger. I did 99% of my testing with a 1.75lb Kidd drop in Trigger Job kit and after a while even that got heavy.

A good trigger will get every bit of accuracy from a mediocre rifle. A bad trigger will make an accurate rifle useless.


Now repeat step 2.

• Step 4
• If you have flyers (THAT ARE NOT SHOOTER INDUCED) have the bolt modified or install an aftermarket bolt. Cost between $35 - $115.00

Again, there are some that say this modification doesn’t make a difference however I had flyer issues with s/n 827 and so I used a CPC modified factory bolt, a JWH bolt and a Kidd bolt.

In the rifle that had flyers (s/n 827) the modified bolt solved the problem instantly.


Given what this modification costs and its benefits I say a bolt job or a better bolt does eliminate a lot of variables and to be accurate you need to be consistent and repeatable. The cost of this mod makes it a no-brainer. If you need it, Do it!


Now repeat step 2.

• Step 5
• If you have issues at 25 yards, stop shooting, go home and check EVERYTHING!

Check and make sure everything is snug and check things (scope etc.) often to insure things stay tight, not gorilla tight just snug. If you change anything you are going to have to get things back on target before you move forward. Take your time here make sure everything is perfect.

Now repeat step 2.

• Step 5a
• Barrel(s)

If you are bound and determined to do a barrel upgrade or swap, make sure you know what you want. (See step 1, “have a plan”) only after you have seen what your rifles is capable of doing (more correctly, what YOU the shooter is capable of doing should you go this route. You cannot slap on the best barrel and create a sub MOA rifle! You might be surprised at what little difference an aftermarket barrel might make. In my quest to keep the rifle as close to stock as possible, I settled on a course of seeing how far I could take the factory barrel. I decided to go with a factory barrel, re-chambered by a gunsmith who also put a custom crown on my barrel. (all money well spent about $110 all in) Ruger has a LOT of money invested in barrel making machines, how bad can they be? Since this was/is a stock build I stayed with what I knew. Remember you just might find out that you are satisfied with your accuracy without barrel work and save yourself some $$$. Either way, it pays you to go slow here!

The barrel upgrade turned the rifles into consistent ¾ inch shooters at 50 yards (with bulk ammo see post above) and 1.25 groups at 100 yards (WITH GOOD AMMO!) Bulk was all over the place! Bulk ammo at 100 yards is like hitting yourself in the head with a 2x4.

Now repeat step 2.

~Other Thoughts and Observations~


• Ammo matters

But not in the way you might think.

I shot a bunch of expensive match ammo during these tests.

I never saw any gains till I had really grown familiar with the quirks of each rifle.

Most of my testing was done with CCI Blazer and CCI Standard Velocity. I got some very acceptable groups with this ammo. Just before I sent the barrels out I did some shooting with Federal Gold Medal Match @ $17.00 per 50. It shaved 3/4 of an inch off my 100 yard groups but only after I had shot nearly 1,000 rounds through each rifle (of regular ammo , not Federal Gold, I'm not that rich)

Additionally I never saw any of the ammo sensitivity that some people insist all 22’s have. I shot CCI Blazer, Federal Auto Match, CCI Mini Mags, Federal Gold Medal Match, Eley Club, Eley Club Extra, CCI Standard Velocity & SK.

I never had one single feeding issue with either rifle. Or with any brand of ammo.

There is always going to be the wag who says, “I shoot sub MOA groups at 100 yards with Remington Golden Bullet’s.” (All day long if I do my part)

Yeah right…

If you get those sorts of groups I guarantee they will not be repeatable and that is what accuracy is, a repeatable performance, not a one-time wish. Any ammo will give you a perfect one-shot group… It’s what happens when you send 4 more behind it that matters.

(See/Repeat step 2)

• Stock Modifications

Beyond the scope of these tests but don’t worry, I’m saving those for another day!

• Cryo Accurizing

No matter what I write here, someone will come up with a report from a friend of a friend saying that it doesn’t work. I did it to my rifles and found the following:
In my tests, the rifles stayed cleaner longer. I still can’t believe how clean the rifles stay after cryo. It’s amazing. I cannot attest to any measurable accuracy improvement.

• Charging Handle.

The Ruger factory unit is acceptable until you try something (anything) better. The factory unit is difficult to work with and difficult to use with a scope. While it won’t do much of anything for your accuracy they do make your life so much better, in short, the factory charging handle really stinks, get a replacement; any one will do.

• Magazine Release

I used to hate the factory magazine release but honestly it’s not so bad. You need to know which release will work for your brand of shooting. I ended up with a Volquartsen just because I liked the way they look.

• Extractor

I have one rifle with a “better” extractor (s/n 827) and one rifle with the Ruger stock unit. I’ve had zero issues with either one. Your call.

• Gunsmither Bolt Bar Tool $12.95

I’ve really tried to avoid recommending any specific brands during this test, that wasn’t the point, however if you are going to own a Ruger 10/22, I strongly urge you to invest in one of these. You will not regret it! http://www.gunsmithertools.com/gunsm...1022-bolt-bar/

• Scotch-Brite© treatment of the receiver interior

This is a pride of ownership thing and there are a bunch of threads on RFC about it. At least your bolt won’t sound like it is running in sand. Do this some winter night when you have nothing else to do, but do it by HAND, no Dremel©


Finally (I swiped the excerpt below from a great website (link provided) it’s a pretty good thought

Be Realistic

“The problem with testing the accuracy of our guns is that even when we physically remove ourselves as variables with a nice shooting rest, it’s even harder to disregard the desire for our guns to be accurate. It’s exciting to see a perfect three-shot clover leaf group on target, and the temptation is to just quit while we’re ahead or, even worse, cling to that one group as the standard when subsequent testing indicates that it was the exception instead of the rule. Fortunately, even mass produced guns are far more accurate today than they ever have been and most of them are plenty accurate for any practical purposes. But as the bar for accuracy is raised, so are our hopes and expectations, and everyone wants to be the owner of the proverbial “tack driver”. There’s certainly nothing wrong with that, except when it leads us to avoid the cold hard truth as delivered by the holes on paper. Don’t lie to yourself; read what the target is telling you, believe the data, and consider all the variables involved.”


http://www.luckygunner.com/lounge/kn...-shoot-groups/

My Closing Thoughts

I took a lot of 1 step forward and 2 steps back in this process, just getting back to zero after the mods took a lot of time. My apologies folks, I made you read the whole thing only to bring you right back to the beginning:

Shooting good groups with a 10/22 is a shooter issue, not an equipment one.

The finest 10/22 built by the world’s best builder is limited by its most variable (weakest) component, the shooter.

So let’s recap the best modifications per dollar spent for a stock 10/22.

1. Have a plan and shoot a lot.
2. A better/aftermarket trigger will make a huge difference. (Cost from $35 to $270)
3. A better bolt is a good investment (IF YOU NEED IT! I swapped one bolt and left the other stock!)
4. Spend your money on consistent ammo and a good scope.
5. A re-chambered factory barrel is a good idea IF YOU NEED IT. The barrel work turned the rifles into constant shooters… No more guessing about groups!

It’s the Indian, not the arrow; it’s the wizard not the wand. This isn’t the end; it’s just Chapter 1 for these 2 rifles. Future plans include, better optics, and some stock work. They will always stay as close to stock as I can make them.




Wanna know why 826 is such a good shooter? Check out a Randy at CPC crown...
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Last edited by FlysAlot; 05-01-2019 at 09:04 PM.
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