Ejector wire gage for Marlin 60 - Page 6 - RimfireCentral.com Forums

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  #76  
Old 03-09-2018, 02:41 PM
max503
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While it still has a few hiccups, my new Model 60 got through three complete tubes-full before a jam during the fourth. That's a BIG improvement. There's hope for this shootin' iron yet.
Thanks Arrowdodger.
I was using Mexican CI ammo, which ain't the best stuff out there.
This gun is very accurate.

Edit: I take back the good things I said about this gun. It's starting to get on my nerves. While it is doing better, it is no where near reliable. A new gun should not act like this. A twenty-year-old gun should not act like this. I wish I'd bought the Ruger.

Last edited by max503; 03-25-2018 at 06:53 PM.
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  #77  
Old 03-25-2018, 06:55 PM
max503
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bump. If you're thinking of buying a Marlin - don't. At least I wouldn't. You shouldn't have to bend a wire to try and get the thing to work correctly. You shouldn't have to keep a screwdriver next to you on the bench to clear jams.
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  #78  
Old 03-28-2018, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by max503 View Post
bump. If you're thinking of buying a Marlin - don't. At least I wouldn't. You shouldn't have to bend a wire to try and get the thing to work correctly. You shouldn't have to keep a screwdriver next to you on the bench to clear jams.
My experience was quite the opposite, I bought a brand new Ruger Boat Paddle 10/22 in 1998 and that thing would function properly at all, even after returning to Ruger twice. So it just sat in the safe for years, finally sold it a year ago.

Bought a new Marlin model 60 the first of this month, cleaned it took to the range and ran 560 rounds of five different brands of ammo through it and it never had an issue.

Bottom line I think we both just got a problem child, you a Marlin and me a Ruger.
All brands have a problem child from time to time.
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  #79  
Old 03-30-2018, 01:37 AM
max503
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Originally Posted by rugersaman View Post
My experience was quite the opposite, I bought a brand new Ruger Boat Paddle 10/22 in 1998 and that thing would function properly at all, even after returning to Ruger twice. So it just sat in the safe for years, finally sold it a year ago.

Bought a new Marlin model 60 the first of this month, cleaned it took to the range and ran 560 rounds of five different brands of ammo through it and it never had an issue.

Bottom line I think we both just got a problem child, you a Marlin and me a Ruger.
All brands have a problem child from time to time.
I just ran 100 rounds of Mini-Mags through it and it did much better. No FTE's. Had a few where it chambered the round but didn't cock the bolt. I don't know what's causing that. Someone suggested the sear isn't engaging. Had a couple 2-3 round full auto bursts. But mostly it worked ok with the mini-mags.
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  #80  
Old 03-30-2018, 11:45 AM
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If you want to send me ONLY the action assembly with return postage, i can evaluate it.
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  #81  
Old 04-04-2018, 09:55 AM
max503
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Sorry if I seem spastic.

The gun is doing better. Went through about 150 rounds of of M-22's with only a couple hiccups. (A round would chamber but the action wouldn't cock.)
This gun definitely requires higher powered ammo.

Not that I'm going to try this-------but has anyone ever installed a lighter recoil spring or shortened the existing one?
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  #82  
Old 04-04-2018, 06:06 PM
ferg
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Try this, costs nothing.

Loosen but do not remove action screws and pull barrel/action assy as far forward as possible, tighten screws. It won't move very much but should improve your hammer reset issue.
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  #83  
Old 05-15-2018, 05:42 PM
ky-shooter
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Guys, this may have already been answered, but how long does the nickel trick adjustment usually last? Does it have to be re-done every so often?
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  #84  
Old 05-16-2018, 06:04 PM
Floyd_Crook
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Polish Bolt of Marlin 60

Trying to send a message to ArrowDodger regarding polishing the breech/bolt of the Marlin model 60 22LR but that service is not available right now so I hope this get through to you. I have the older Glenfield/Marlin 60 22LR made in 1972 and decided to do the feed throat upgrade and have all the parts (including a new buffer since I am in there). I went with getting the newer breech/bolt instead of filing down the new feed throat since I could get one cheap. I was also reading that many polish the breech/bolt and I would like to do so too since the smoother action would be nice and maybe make it shoot a wider variety of rounds as well. What I would like to ask is how to do it with sand paper? I have the wet/dry variety from 600 to 1500 grit and want to know if anyone could give advise as how to go about sanding it smooth since I've never done it before. Should I sand it dry? Wet sand with water? Wet sand with oil (what kind?)? I already have a good polish. Would I really have to disassemble the breech/bolt? (take out the firing pin/extractors/etc?) or since the metal would be so fine just clean it ? is there anything I should watch out for while sanding or sand only what sections? ArrowDodger mentioned "I slightly chamfer the insides of the bolt ears and polish them as well" where are those located? and (I hope I'm not asking too much) since I have the older model is it better to drill a hold in the side plate for that extra knob on the new feed throat - or does just filing it off do just as well?
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  #85  
Old 05-16-2018, 06:16 PM
Floyd_Crook
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ArrowDodger

Forgot something - my glen/field marlin 60 was made in 1972 and I replaced the front site (that includes the magazine tube holder integrated as one piece) - any advise on reinserting the pin that holds the magazine tube in place? I ruined mine (tube) because the pin kept catching on the back of the tube (it looked chewed up as someone must have removed it before) and turning it - I tried to pry a screwdriver in to allow the pin to insert behind the magazine outer tube without moving it but it got bent instead. It was my fault and the inner magazine tube will no longer insert so I got another one on the way that I don't want to mess up.
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  #86  
Old 11-07-2018, 11:32 PM
Whizfish
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Our 60, purchased new in 2013 would not feed/eject anything. Slamming the new round into the spent case and turning the spent case sideways and making awful jams. I adjusted the feed wire according to Arrowdodger's instructions. The gun now feeds and ejects anything I stuff in it. I had read discussions about 60's being picky about ammo and about how they were especially incompatible with Super X.
Ammo changes made zero difference. Once it was adjusted, it ran through a box of Mini-Mags and a box of Super X without a single failure. Have since run several other brands through it without a problem. Sincere thanks. Love this gun.
Don
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  #87  
Old 10-31-2019, 06:25 PM
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Scoured the internet to solve the FTE issue on my Mod. 60 that I recently procured. It's a 1978 manufacture and is in incredible condition but would not function when running semi auto. Single shot was fine so I disassembled, scrubbed, filed, honed and worked nearly every surface inside the action. I had seen the reference of the nickel gap trick a few times but my ejector wire was in the correct spot so I thought nothing of it. Once I came across this forum and saw the photos and read all of the feedback about how it worked, I figured, let's give it a try. Holy crap.....made the adjustment and took a spin to the range and ran through half a box of cheap Armscor rounds without a single malfunction. I decided to create an account here just so I could say "THANK YOU"!
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