Just wanted to say thanks for this info! My model 60 I've had since I was a kid had been acting up lately. I want to pass it on to my kids to plink with when I'm at the range, but it would only get one round out at a time before jamming. I used the nickel measure and stepped into the woods this weekend and pumping out a eintire tube. Worked like a charm!
I just finished doing this on my old model 60. I had put one of the DIP triggers in it and everything worked good except the feed from the tubular magazine. If I aggressively worked the slide, it worked fine. But get just a little and the next round would catch in the feed throat. After using this adjustment it work flawlessly.
So I just bought a Marlin 60...after owning a BUNCH of Ruger 10/22's! I wanted to try out a 60 for better accuracy, but after reading this sticky it is obvious that I made the wrong choice! One thing I never had to worry about with the Ruger was a freaking wire being out of place by a Millimeter and it causing it to malfunction!!
Out of the 15 plus 10/22's I have owned over the years, the only problem I had was accuracy, and when I say accuracy problems I am talking about 1"-1.5" at 50 yards, I was hoping to get better. But I never had malfunction problems!!! I would rather have 1-1.5" group accuracy then malfunction problems! Looks like I am going back to Ruger, that lasted a whole 3 days!
It only gets out of adjustment if you accidently pinch it, during installation into the receiver, by not having the bolt locked back. You can feel this happening and should back off and figure out that you don't have the bolt back. If you force it, you may have an issue and this thread is how you fix that.
I think it is a good design because it additionally protects the feed-throat from impact. Early designs, 40-50 years ago, had a nub molded into the feed-throat as the ejector and it resulted in severe damage over time to the point of having to replace it with the current style.
I sold my Ruger long ago and never looked back. My Marlins are affordable, accurate and reliable.
Not quite following? The feed throat is near the chamber and the ejector is further back. I knew Marlin once had fixed ejector and went to the wire as improvement but not getting why. Or maybe I'm thinking feed ramp and feed throat is something different.
Not quite following? The feed throat is near the chamber and the ejector is further back. I knew Marlin once had fixed ejector and went to the wire as improvement but not getting why. Or maybe I'm thinking feed ramp and feed throat is something different.
My understanding is that the feed ramp is in the metal fixture listed in the parts schenatic as the feed throat.
The ejector used to be a raised bump on the left rear corner of the top of this, and was about a full round distance from the breach face. Think about it. An ejector farther away is more likely to have ejection issues and one closer won't allow ejection of a live round without disassembly.
It was replaced by the current wire designed ejector around 1984 (?). I read this was to allow replacement of the ejector without changing entire feedthroat. Also, i seem to remember the older feedthroat design could seperate/spread, introducing feeding issues also.
This required a changed bolt as well as a changed feedthroat.
About 10 years ago I bought a beater Marlin model 60 to play with, and maybe use as a truck gun. The stock was beat up, aluminum showed through the paint on the receiver in a few places, but it appeared pretty solid mechanically. I got it home, took it apart and gave it a long overdue, thorough cleaning, then the first chance I got I took it out to run a few rounds through it. I was very disappointed to find that it wouldn’t feed reliably, hanging up probably more often than it fed. It got put away and never fired again. I researched and found tips from ArrowDodger and others about changing out feed assemblies, etc., and saved the information, but never got around to doing anything with it.
Recently I decided to finally fix it, and when looking though the various threads to figure out which parts I would need, I came across the “nickel high, nickel wide” thread. Grabbed my new 5₵ “Model 60 Ejector Gage” and found my ejector/spring leg was out of alignment! Quickly and easily adjusted it back into spec and put everything back together.
Today I made it to the range, set up a little steel spinner target, and started running different types of ammo through it, one full tube (17 rounds) at a time. Fed everything FLAWLESSLY, from CCI MiniMag, down through Remington SubSonic. Even fed Thunderbolts! I had an old box of CCI CB Longs, and it even fed those, though of course I had to manually cycle the bolt. The Thunderbolts don’t work in my Advantage Arms pistol conversion, and are often reluctant to chamber in my son’s Crickett, so I burned through a bunch of them today in my new favorite fun gun, making the plates spin furiously! I even ran one tube-full through as fast as I could work the trigger, and I just couldn’t make it choke!
And, since without pics it didn’t happen, and since I recently figured out how to PhotoBucket:
I have been trying to tune this ejector wire in a pair of old style m60s... is the ejector wire adjustment different for the old style feed throat (two piece)? The two rifles are from 1974 and 1977. I noticed most of the pictures of the wire adjustment are on new style feed throat models, but the old style has a hump on the area where the wire crosses over and I figured there may be different specs for it. I'm not really interested in buying all the new parts to upgrade to the new style, but if anyone has any tips on making the old style feed throat better, please let me know... I have heard the the old style can spread and cause ftf issues. Right now the only issue I am trying to solve is a occasional fte (about once every 20-30 shots). Any advice on the old style would be appreciated! Oh yeah, I have been shooting remington thunderbolt, maybe it's a ammo issue? Anyone have bad experiences with this ammo- it seems super dirty!
I have been trying to tune this ejector wire in a pair of old style m60s... is the ejector wire adjustment different for the old style feed throat (two piece)? The two rifles are from 1974 and 1977. I noticed most of the pictures of the wire adjustment are on new style feed throat models, but the old style has a hump on the area where the wire crosses over and I figured there may be different specs for it. I'm not really interested in buying all the new parts to upgrade to the new style, but if anyone has any tips on making the old style feed throat better, please let me know... I have heard the the old style can spread and cause ftf issues. Right now the only issue I am trying to solve is a occasional fte (about once every 20-30 shots). Any advice on the old style would be appreciated! Oh yeah, I have been shooting remington thunderbolt, maybe it's a ammo issue? Anyone have bad experiences with this ammo- it seems super dirty!
My recollection is that there is no wire in the pre-198x Model 60, before the reconfiguration to the single-piece feedthroat.
My original feedthroat had the hump, but it was worn down from use.
That is one of the reasons to upgrade: short of having someone silver-solder more material on [I think the quality of metal would make even that melt], there is no way to fix the ejection once it starts to go. The metal that ejects it is gone, not mis-aligned.
the other reason for the swap of feedthroats is the one you already identified: spreading of older type, leading to mis-feeds.
With the new feedthroat the wire can be 'tuned' repeatedly, until a new ejection wire is needed, and then THAT part can be changed. I really don't see how anything short of silver-soldering new material onto that spot [and reshaping the excess to the factory size] could improve the ejection. And, again, I don't think the metal of the feedthroat can handle temps around 900+ degrees F for silver-solder, or welding.
This is why I swapped to the newer feedthroat conversion for my 197x Glenfield Model 60.
Well both of my rifles has the ejector wire and both have two piece feed throats. Maybe I need to post a picture. Seems like alot of cash to spend on a cheap gun to upgrade... especially since I believe I would need to buy a new bolt as well.
I have a 1976 model and it has the ejector wire, but, it does not match the style of the current ones. The nickle trick did not work on mine, in reality it is closer to a Dime wide and tall. This has worked flawlessly on mine.
Sounds like you have the same set up as mine... so, is that a dime off the bump in which the spring passes over or a dime off the flat section in front of the bump?
Okay, so I bit the bullet and just ordered two feed throat conversion kits. I was able to get one of my rifles to feed/eject good by machining the rivit out of the feed throat and drilling/tapping a hole so it could be tightened and aligned properly. However one is still giving me problems. So, I might as well just give them both updated parts. I will keep yall updated on how they preform after I get the parts.... should be no problem since they are extremely simple to work on... and I'm a machinist, so modifying the new feed throat for the old bolt will be very easy. Anyone have any issues with the filed/machined edge wearing wierd due to removing the plating?
I installed the new feed throat, spring, and lifter in both of my model 60s and they shoot 100% perfect. No feeding, ejecting issues what so ever. I recommend this upgrade to anyone with older models....
Linear Mode
