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  #121  
Old 06-23-2010, 07:13 AM
woodstock63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1985 4runner View Post
I have a brand new Walnut stock from Numrichs for my Marlin 781 with the medallion cutout that I want to refinish.

Can I use chemical stripper to get the factory stain off without sanding?

Also how would you reccommend I get the new medallion to permanently stay in the cutout without falling out? (the quarter is just for illustration purposes)

Your photo doesn't show up any flaws that I can detect so I'm wondering why you want to refinish it. Too many open pores?

Others here may have a better answer for removing the stain with chemical strippers. You'll still have some sanding/dewhiskering regardless. Different grain through out the stock will have taken the origainal stain differently.

Depending on how open the grain is, the factory stain may have gone too deep to avoid sanding. It will also depnd on the brand/type of stain the factory used. If it was a dye based finish, probably not.

I carved a Iwo Jima and Normandy full stock scene on a collector's M-1 Garand
and inletted a medallion. I cut ragged score lines on the back side of the medallion and into the receiving surface of the stock then used epoxy. That was 10 years ago and it's still holding.

There may be other ways also. You might want to test your stripper on a fairly unobtrusive area, bottom of pistol grip, inside barrel channel?
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  #122  
Old 06-23-2010, 08:06 AM
woodstock63
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Here are the carved M-1 Garand photos. These are photos of photos taken pre-digital ownership so I'm sorry for the quality but it should show the extent ok.




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  #123  
Old 06-23-2010, 11:29 AM
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1985 4runner
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Thanks for the reply.

I want the finish to be darker & have more of a shine than the current one.

Thats some BEAUTIFUL work on the Garand. Makes this old Marine proud.
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  #124  
Old 06-23-2010, 01:49 PM
woodstock63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1985 4runner View Post
Thanks for the reply.

I want the finish to be darker & have more of a shine than the current one.

Thats some BEAUTIFUL work on the Garand. Makes this old Marine proud.

I salute you! Thanks for your service to our Country!
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  #125  
Old 06-23-2010, 01:54 PM
woodstock63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1985 4runner View Post
Thanks for the reply.

I want the finish to be darker & have more of a shine than the current one.

Thats some BEAUTIFUL work on the Garand. Makes this old Marine proud.

Just another thought for a darker finish. You might be able to steel wool off the protecive finish without burnishing the stain and add a deeper stain to the existing. As always test in an unobtrusive area first.
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  #126  
Old 06-25-2010, 03:07 AM
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1985 4runner
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Thanks for all the tips, I hope to start this project this weekend & will post up some pics of my progress.
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  #127  
Old 06-27-2010, 02:04 PM
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Hi,

Well, you have been royally cursed out this weekend! I read over your
process and decided to try it. I am not a woodworker and have not played
with staining or finishing before.

I'd bought a Marlin 795, and got a laminated wood stock from (through?)
Numrich, but was never been happy with the finish. It was poorly sanded and
the finish was dull. So, I figured it was time to try this.

I sanded down the stock to remove the old finish with 220, and then
proceeded up through 400. It was okay, but not perfect. (Did I mention I am
also impatient?).

Yesterday, I started with your elixir. What a mess! I couldn't figure out how
much Armor-all to use. I tried heavy coats and light coats. I tried rubbing
harder and softer. Each time, I ended up with a sticky stock. I kept after it
and managed about 10 coats. The coverage was inconsistent, and didn't dry
completely. I finally gave up and left the sticky mess for the night.

This morning wasn't a lot better. It had dried somewhat, but didn't look
very good. After a while, I decided to coat it again. I sanded it with 400 and
added another coat. This coat went really well, and it seemed to be better. I
reduced the amount of Armorall, and it was getting a shine to it! A few more
coats and I think I am done.

I cannot seem to get as smooth shine as you do , but I am pretty pleased
now. I think I am about done now. I'm going to let it dry the rest of
the day and reevaluate.

The curses are turning to smiles!!

Thank you!

Jeff
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  #128  
Old 06-27-2010, 04:45 PM
bn12gg
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Love the subtle fiddleback. .02 David
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  #129  
Old 06-27-2010, 05:03 PM
woodstock63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jd66921 View Post
Hi,


Yesterday, I started with your elixir. What a mess! I couldn't figure out how
much Armor-all to use. I tried heavy coats and light coats. I tried rubbing
harder and softer. Each time, I ended up with a sticky stock. I kept after it
and managed about 10 coats. The coverage was inconsistent, and didn't dry
completely. I finally gave up and left the sticky mess for the night.


The curses are turning to smiles!!

Thank you!

Jeff
To describe a finishing process can be a daunting challenge but you stayed with it and probably found the mix for your stock, good for you.

Many who've tried this "process" have seem to have applied too much TruOil, hence "the stickey mess syndrome". This process still needs to be methodical and each layer controlled...,light sheen of ArmorAll and fingertips worth of TruOil, repeat, repeat. Don't hurry the coats.

If you have some minimal tack, let it sit for an hour or two and then lightly buff the "tack", wipe with a tack cloth and add another coat.

This process relies on building up many light coats and if the mix is as described, it is the hand rubbed friction that "heats" the mix speeding the drying allowing for additional coats much more rapidly than TruOil alone..

Laminated stocks generally have varying degrees of soft/hard wood whereas certain portions soak it up and portions hold it more to the top (your inconsistent comment).

Initially, the finish will appear flaton all wood, especially on softer woods but as you proceed, the sheen will be obvious, the pores will fill and each successive coat will rub dry faster.

Tip for all...,get a scrap of walnut, prepare it as you would a gunstock and practice the mix proportions on it to get the mix feel.
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  #130  
Old 06-28-2010, 04:20 PM
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1985 4runner
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Thanks for all the tips & advice. I hope mine turns out well.

I started a thread to document my attempts.

Feel free to go over and critique my work:

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...=1#post2999275
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  #131  
Old 06-28-2010, 04:39 PM
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The wood is incredibly beautiful...

The wood looks like a fine piece of furniture after 6 coats.
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  #132  
Old 07-01-2010, 08:56 PM
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Stain before using elixir?

I have a Baikal Toz 17-01 that I got for $30 with a beat up stock that I've started to sand and the wood is quite light in color, so I'd like to stain before using the elixir.

I plan to:
finish sanding with very fine sand paper (~800 grit)
apply Minwax pre-stain conditioner for water-based stains
apply Minwax Vermont Maple water-based stain
let it dry for 24 hours (the can says 3 minimum)
sand again
follow elixir instructions

Are there any inherent flaws in this plan? Would it be better to use a spirit or oil based stain instead?

Thanks in advance!
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  #133  
Old 07-01-2010, 09:31 PM
woodstock63
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Yes to pre-stain wood conditioner.

I tend to use oil based stains myself but I doubt if water based will be a problem either. The only problem with water based for me is that they soak in, evaporate and dry pretty rapidly whereas an oil base gives you a bit more working time to blend overall. As far as the "elixer", it shouldn't affect either water-based or oil.

TruOil has some color to it so there'll be a bit of darkening from that also. On natural walnut I don't use any stain.

You mentioned a Maple stain which does tend to be on the light side. Maybe try a bit on the inside of the barrel channel to see if you like the color first. Sometimes a few applications will darken it as you go too.

There are also a number of Min-Wax color variations available in Walnut stains. I keep "Walnut", "Special Walnut" and "Dark Walnut" on hand. (Special Walnut" being my own favorite, a medium color range.) On very light wood I will probably go to the dark.

Many stores have actual wood samples showing how the colors take.

Hope this helps. "Woody"
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  #134  
Old 07-02-2010, 09:32 AM
dhuze
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I tried this method out on an ugly stock from a useless shotgun. The shotgun is an Ithica double barreled 20ga with a damascus barrel in poor shape and the ribs are separating. Now its a poor shotgun with a nice stock on it.
Here are before and after picks of the stock. I put wax on after they were done to dull the finish a bit.



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  #135  
Old 07-02-2010, 09:55 AM
vepr762
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It does work! It took a day and a half to finish the wood. The rest of the rifle took about 6 months.


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