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  #811  
Old 03-06-2016, 11:27 PM
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labratt104
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Thank you sir. Your option D sounds like a solid plan. Next time, next stock I will know where to spend my time prepping before I start applying the finish. Lesson learned.
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  #812  
Old 03-07-2016, 10:30 AM
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Great start!! I do like TO but not the shiny side rather the matte side. Just buff off the stock and apply more. First couple coats after the buff could be a little thicker to help fill the grain, but not so that it runs.

I buffed between coats w/ 00 steel wool. I know several will jump down my throat. Never had any steel residue. Shop-vac everything when done buffing and then give it a dose of tac rag.

6-8 more coats and the grain will be getting full.
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  #813  
Old 03-29-2016, 09:28 AM
Tbittle1

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how do you do the checkering on a stock ???
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  #814  
Old 04-01-2016, 11:07 AM
60mg

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Has anyone ever tried water based polyurethane varnish on stocks? I'm just wondering how well it works ... Thank in advance
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  #815  
Old 07-11-2016, 09:52 AM
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I refinished this stock at first with a old world oil finish... I found that it just didn't stand up to the damp conditions, I was putting it through... so on went the poly.. ..







NOT as pretty BUT tough as nails..
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  #816  
Old 10-05-2016, 03:56 AM
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woodstock63, six months ago I refinished the stock and forend of my Gevarm E1 using your recipe and couldn't be happier. The French Walnut still had the original 1960's factory varnish finish which was worn in many places and did nothing to highlight the nature of the wood. Your recipe and the process was simplicity itself and while really bringing out the grain, particularly in the stock, the big plus was the drying speed. I have had a long love affair with the open bolt Gevarm and regularly use it over other .22 rifles for taking small game and pest control. The toughness of the finish delivered by the recipe has been outstanding. It looks just as good as the day it was applied. While the grain is not "beautiful" per se, it has character and sometimes character is enough. Many thanks! See images below.



















Now if only I could find a original replacement for the broken pistol grip end cap.... Fat chance of that....

Last edited by Kauri; 07-20-2017 at 09:30 PM.
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  #817  
Old 11-13-2016, 04:47 PM
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Why would you want to do that?

That is refinish a brand new never been fired Marlin 60 birch stock, complete with Genuine Synthetic Walnut Finish. Well that's why.

I like the darkness the factory finish adds to the birch but hate the matte finish and the fact that it adds little to highlite the grain and shading of the wood.

So what I want to know is if anyone has just sanded a factory finish and not stripped it first. What I'm after is wanting to save the 'darkness' without staining bare wood. However I'm looking for a high gloss finish that shows off the grain and shading (as such, remember it's birch). Nutshell question: Will a sanded factory finish respond well to the elixir? Or strip and sand and stain and elixir.

Thanks,
Jim
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  #818  
Old 11-19-2016, 09:54 AM
MissedEm
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Hate these long posts

as nobody provides a summary of the whole thing, therefore Woodstock is your first post still the way to go or can you update for us. Getting an old Glenfield that needs work and like the sound of your technique.

Thanks - Steve
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  #819  
Old 12-01-2016, 03:46 PM
Bob4BVM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdb31 View Post
That is refinish a brand new never been fired Marlin 60 birch stock, complete with Genuine Synthetic Walnut Finish. Well that's why.

I like the darkness the factory finish adds to the birch but hate the matte finish and the fact that it adds little to highlite the grain and shading of the wood.

So what I want to know is if anyone has just sanded a factory finish and not stripped it first. What I'm after is wanting to save the 'darkness' without staining bare wood. However I'm looking for a high gloss finish that shows off the grain and shading (as such, remember it's birch). Nutshell question: Will a sanded factory finish respond well to the elixir? Or strip and sand and stain and elixir.

Thanks,
Jim
You need to start with bare wood for this finish, the smoother the better.
You can strip or sand off original, but then you need to thoroughly sand wood in steps gown to at least 600 grit. I go to 800 or 1000g on a stock I really want to be perfect. In short the bare sanded wood shuld be so smooth that it has a shine to it, appearing almost to have a clear finish on it.
Bob

Last edited by Bob4BVM; 12-01-2016 at 07:36 PM.
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  #820  
Old 12-01-2016, 07:52 PM
Bob4BVM
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Originally Posted by MissedEm View Post
as nobody provides a summary of the whole thing, therefore Woodstock is your first post still the way to go or can you update for us. Getting an old Glenfield that needs work and like the sound of your technique.

Thanks - Steve
Its not complicated or critical...
Give the wood area you're doing a good squirts of AA, enough to wet it good.
Then put 2-3 fingers of TO on your hand and rub rub rub. Until it 'dries'
First coat takes longest to slik up to a 'dry' coat, successive coats 'dry' faster & faster as you rub them in.
"dry" is not really the right word, nor is "cure". What happens is the TO goes from sticky to slick at some point, you'll know when it happens.

Do manageable areas at a time, not the whole stock. one side of a butt or forearm is workable. This process is best learned by doing. Dig in & go for it, it becomes clear & simple with a bit of experience.

I have done a few stocks with this process, as well as some other wood projects. I like it a lot, one of my favorite finishes now.

Here is the first gun I ever did with it, down around post#52 shows the AA/TO finish results pretty well: https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...=388523&page=4

if I can make it work the first time, anyone can !
Bob

Last edited by Bob4BVM; 12-01-2016 at 08:03 PM.
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  #821  
Old 03-04-2017, 11:52 AM
Dr. Marneaus
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Has anybody ever tried this with any of the similar products but not actual Tru-Oil? For example
I believe the minwax antique finish oil is a very very very similar product. Just curious if anybody has modified the process to use a different top coat product?
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  #822  
Old 04-20-2017, 09:56 PM
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And things were going SO well

Hey All,

Made a mess here some how. I am trying the elixir out for the first time. Trying to follow the program as close as possible. I have not read all 50+ pages but I has skimmed.

Here's where I am - 1st approximately 15 - 17 coats went good @ about 7-9 is when it started to dry really quick and started to look better also. @ approximately coat 13 I went a little crazy and did several [maybe 4-6] coats one RIGHT after the next. I was flipping the stock end for end as it was drying that fast and going on very well.

Then the whole system crashed, that was approximately 3 hours ago. and the TO is still very tacky.

The TO looks very good, not balled up, cloudy, runny, etc. it is just tacky.

So. Where did I go wrong, as I said I am doing my best to follow the program. Did I just go too fast? If I did not get enough AA on the last coat would that do this?

Now the real ????? What to do? Just wait? Start a fire? Hit it with a little more AA. Just stay faithful to the program?

I feel better writing this down. When they find me slumped over my bench drooling and gibberishing [c it's started all ready] y'all can tell them what happened to me.

Thanx
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  #823  
Old 04-21-2017, 10:34 AM
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First post and no reply for 12 hours. Where are our manners? WELCOME TO RFC!!!
I would say yes, you went too fast and maybe too far. Considering how fast things were moving and how long it's been now (15 hours?) you should seem some change for better or worse.

I would stop with the TO and AA for a while. The only question is whether it will eventually cure or if you need to get some or all of it off. I think I'd get some mineral spirits (original not-odorless paint thinner) and wipe the stock down with it. With luck you will get the gunk off and not mess up the lower layers. They need to dry more and they can't do it with all that stuff on top. If there are firm layers underneath, you should be able to get back to a solid and good-looking base. Then if you need more TO, I'd go a lot slower and use little or no AA, especially until you have it under control. Good luck.
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  #824  
Old 04-21-2017, 05:01 PM
Grievouspawn

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The ship is not righted but we are moving forward

[QUOTE=CardPuncher;8639858]First post and no reply for 12 hours. Where are our manners? WELCOME TO RFC!!!

No Worries - People are busy

"I would say yes, you went too fast and maybe too far. Considering how fast things were moving and how long it's been now (15 hours?) you should seem some change for better or worse."

I put it in timeout all night and till ~ 10 AM. It was still a tiny bit tacky by no means wet but not what I would call dry either. Lost patience and just kicked it back into drive. Have ~ 6 more coats on it, it is going OK ish. Every other coat or so will get hard right under my hands then the next will not quite harden/dry. When I was in the groove yesterday the coats were hardening as fast as I could put them on. No tackiness at all.

Anyway, going forward.

I keep it cool in my shop some of the tackiness maybe just that the stock is cool to the touch.[?]

How important is it to wash my hands between coats? When I was going really fast yesterday I was not even getting up from the bench.

I understand, as much as I do anything, going too fast. What do you mean about going too far? Too many coats?

Thanx
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  #825  
Old 04-21-2017, 05:58 PM
Grievouspawn

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