Posted a while back about a rifle I was doin' for myself and my father. Here she is Enfield action, Redfield 3x9 wide feild, Douglas bbl,Fajen blank hand inlet and inlayed in 1965 by Norvey Hartley in Indep. Mo.
Long time lurker looking to opt in his 2-cents for a wonderful discovery:
1) This is a much more efficient and economic method to a similar chemical reaction I've been using for years: tru-oil and denatured GorillaGlue. I'd spend days making a reduction cocktail of Gorillaglue and various spirits to get the quick drying "cure" without the foaming pattern. I've been using this method for two months now--ever since I first stumbled across this thread while researching a rebuild on a Marlin Model 60.
However, on some softer woods, I've found treating it with Howard's wood hardener prior to wax and polish helps to make the grain luster a tad more while preserving the finish.
2) Like Gorilla glue, the key here might be the wash down method--it needs some water moisture to cause a reaction. This has been noted in other wood working projects using more thoroughly dried materials.
3) The best stripper I've found for the greatest number of finishes is Easy Off oven cleaner. After experimenting with a multitude of caustics over the past two years, I've also found it to be the most expedient for this kind of work. Spray on, let sit for 15-20 minutes, and then hose off while gently wiping off residue with 00 steel wool or nonladen brillo or SOS pad.
4) I use rubber gloves (nitrile) while applying the elixir for two reasons: 1) I have unusually acidic sweat which will even eat the finish on tungsten carbide, or in the case of the elixir, cause blistering in the finish. 2) It allows a small build up of the resulting, waxy polymer which aids in filling nicks, dings, and dimples too deep to sand out.
Because typical wood fillers do not take the Woodstock Elixir well, I've taken to collecting saw dust from the second and third sandings--the first may have too much old stain or stripper residue. Subsequent sandings, likewise, produce too light a material to act as filler. I mix 4 parts saw dust with 2 parts residual build-up from the gloves; the compound is easily packed into holes, and the great ratio of sawdust helps blend. A pin-head sized drop of Gorilla glue in the hole before packing keeps it in place and helps harden the material. At worst, it leaves a dun-colored "liverspot"--at best you can't tell it was there.
5) Prior to the first elixir application on some older, more porous woods, I will leave the stock in front of a small heater set to between 75-85 degrees. This allows the wood to expand, so that as the first coat hits and cools the wood, the wood shrinks, making the packed grain accept additional coats more easily.
6) An equally effective and economic method to stain light woods to use in conjunction with the Elixir method is good old fashioned Rit fabric dyes. Mixing a drop or two with Tru-Oil and allowing it to sit for two hours to set enables one to knock out both coloring the stock and making an initial coat.
7) I'll sometimes use this mix on brass hardware to faux antique the finish. While not typically the sort of thing we'd look to do with a refurb job, it adds a nice lacquered look to the metal, distressing and giving the appearance of wear. It is also a great way to protect the metal from tarnish.
8) To allow for a natural feel to the wood (semi-gloss satin), after my second or third dozen coats and right before wax and polish, I'll first use Armorall pure caruba wax, followed by a coat of traditional hardshell--both sucked up by the wood, dulling a glossy finish and still allowing for a porous natural wood grain feel against the skin. Likewise, the subsequent dozen or so coats of Feed-n-wax mixes and hardens.
9) After comparing the results from various furniture polishes, I prefer Scotts Liquid gold. Now if I could only find it in unscented--all I've ever found is almond.
10) Lightly wiping with a green 3M scotchbrite scour pad is the easiest way to pull remaining waxy build up from the stock without messing with the rest of the finish. More pressure between coats will work like 4-0 steel wool and help to dull the finish without leaving sanding marks and metal shavings.
Last edited by Armorer; 02-27-2011 at 04:20 PM.
Reason: wrote two years when I meant two months
Wow,
Just came across this thread.
Chris that 1890 is a real piece ! Just the look I want on my present stock-carving project. You guys are killing me with ideas ! I thought I had settled on another method, but Woodstock's may just be it. Still can't quite believe this mixture does this... but seeing is believing i guess.
2 questions right now-
How does this do on a very open grained wood like my Amer.Black Walnut, do i need to wet-sand in some finish with 400 grit to fill the pores ?
How does the Woodstock mix stand up to weather and gun oils/solvents. Mine will be a field gun not a wall hanger
[QUOTE=rickshooter;3166199]It took me a while to get to it but using the process I just refinished a factory original 10/22 carbine stock. I was surprised because the actual wood was not bad looking at all.
Great idea !
I can try this on my ugly old 10/22 before I dive into my new handcarved walnut stock on my real gun !
Also it occurs to me to maybe test for results on a piece of the same wood you built your stock out of...
How does this do on a very open grained wood like my Amer.Black Walnut, do i need to wet-sand in some finish with 400 grit to fill the pores ?
How does the Woodstock mix stand up to weather and gun oils/solvents. Mine will be a field gun not a wall hanger
Bob
1.) I personally don't attempt to fill the pores on open grains by wet sanding, I let the "elixer" do it and sometimes it does take more coats, but each coat dries very fast so multiple coats are not a hassle. On real open grains my first coats go against the grain until they start to fill in.
2.) All of mine and other's stocks that I've done have been field guns and there've never been any problem with weather, oils, solvents or discoloring. The TruOil is still the main ingredient and the ArmorAll is merely the "binder."
I have read through this thread and noticed a number of postings, and comments about the pores of the wood not filling.
May I offer a suggestion. Try thinning a coat of tru oil with mineral spirits and then using this mixture to lightly sand the wood with 600 wet dry sand paper.
What you want to do is create a slurry from the previous coats of finish. This will fill the pores of the wood and give you the smooth finish you are looking for.
Last edited by Marlin Fan; 02-24-2011 at 06:37 PM.
I have read through this thread and noticed a number of postings, and comments about the pores of the wood not filling.
May I offer a suggestion. Try thinning a coat of tru oil with mineral spirits and then using this mixture to lightly sand the wood with 600 wet dry sand paper.
What you want to do is create a slurry from the precious coats of finish. This will fill the pores of the wood and give you the smooth finish you are looking for.
Yeah, this is what I have done on other projects, works great since you are filling the pores with the same wood. I've always hated to use artificial 'sanding sealers', etc on beautiful wood, just seems wrong to me.
It is the only thing i'd add to Woodstock's formula.
Will try it on a piece of scrap walnut i cut my stock from and let you know how it goes...
Bob
I have been struggling with trying to get a decent finish on an ugly 10/22 birch stock. I finally have it colored fairly evenly with brown rit dye. I have sprayed it with 4 thin coats of polyurethane. Can this finish be effectively applied over what I have done, or should I just continue with the polyurethane?
I have been struggling with trying to get a decent finish on an ugly 10/22 birch stock. I finally have it colored fairly evenly with brown rit dye. I have sprayed it with 4 thin coats of polyurethane. Can this finish be effectively applied over what I have done, or should I just continue with the polyurethane?
I'd probably stay with the Poly and pass on the "elixer".
At this point with polyurethane I'd say no because it's a pretty impervious finish and your finish probably has been set and established by now. It'd probably be just extra work for you.
Linear Mode
