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  #1  
Old 08-30-2019, 03:40 PM
1813Anschutz
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Winchester 52D Accuracy problem



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HELP!

I have a 1966 vintage 52D Winchester that several years ago I had fitted into an Anschutz prone stock by a fellow competitor. I used to be able to carve the X ring out of the 100 yard target in prone. now it barely stays in the 7 ring.

I am using a very well proven Weaver T-16 with a dot reticule, and Eley Tenex ammo that I used to win the State Prone Match ten years ago here in Montana. All screws are tight, crown looks great.

When I run a rod down the barrel, there is no chatter....goes from breach to muzzle smoothly.

This rifle used to out shoot my 1813 Anschutz in Prone matches, I have shot several 1598's and 1599's with it on a 1600 Aggregate Outdoor Prone match.

I am wondering about the bedding but am unsure as to how to check that....

Any ideas fellow 52 enthusiasts?

Randy
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File Type: jpg 52 D Winchester Target 002.jpg (265.6 KB, 31 views)
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  #2  
Old 08-30-2019, 04:16 PM
doubs43
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First thing I'd do is return it to it's original stock and see what it does. That assumes you have kept the original stock and nothing else was done to the rifle except swap stocks.
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  #3  
Old 08-30-2019, 04:44 PM
tommyt654

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Did you try adjusting your scope to the POI where the rounds are now hitting?

You might wanna try some fresher ammo as well
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  #4  
Old 08-30-2019, 06:10 PM
1813Anschutz
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52D

I gave the original stock to the man that set up the rifle in the prone stock as payment for his work so I cannot return it to the original unless he still has it.

As far as using newer ammo, I don't see where that would help with the vertical stringing that is quite obvious on the target.

I tried the old dollar bill trick under the barrel and it is free all the way up and down the barrel.

I also went and tried to tighten all screws again in case I missed some....I didn't.

Using my magnifying glass to look at the crown all is well there, no markings at all, other than what Winchester turned during manufacturing.

Randy
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Old 08-30-2019, 06:16 PM
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This isn't specific to a Winchester, but could vertical strobing suggest ignition issues? How are the headspace and firing pin strike depth? Does the bolt spring have a life expectancy? I'd change an Anschutz 1813 after a few years of regular use as it's pretty light, but what about the 52? Is the trigger catch releasing the firing pin bent cleanly?
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  #6  
Old 08-30-2019, 07:02 PM
1813Anschutz
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52D

I have not pulled the bolt and measured firing pin dimensions. To my knowledge the firing pin spring is original to the gun. I don't have the tools to check head space.

Seems to have a great deal of thrust when firing, casings are well indented.

Will try the things mentioned and see if I can learn anything new.

On my own 1813 Anschutz the firing pin is also original to the rifle. Perhaps Wigger changed it before I bought it from him, but I have never changed it.

I broke a firing pin on the Anschutz years ago and also had a broken trigger, but it has been very reliable and VERY accurate. It has a USAMTU barrel on it which I am told is actually a Hart barrel.

Will keep you all up to speed when I find the real culprit.

Randy
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  #7  
Old 08-30-2019, 09:18 PM
tommyt654

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Try a diifferent scope to verify its not the scope.

Ammo defintely can cause vertical stringing especially if its old ammo

You said you checked the scope screws,Did that include the mounts on the rifle itself?

Clean your trigger possibly causing some firing issues and make sure the firing pin isn't dragging on some old crud inside the bolt possibly and aligns with the hole in the bolt properly.,just sayin
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  #8  
Old 08-31-2019, 01:35 AM
1813Anschutz
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52D

The scope was just removed from my 1813 Anschutz and has been a proven reliable scope. The bases, rings, and mount were all tight.

It has been my experience that older ammo may have a flyer but not constant vertical stringing. I did try some Fiocchi SWM-320 and had the same results.

Will dip into my reserve of Russan Rifle Temp and Federal UM-1 that I use very sparingly as there is no more left unless it is a deceased or retired competitive shooter. Both of these shoot as well as my Eley Tenex.

I suspect the results will be similar. It seems like there is a bedding issue that I have not found yet. Will ask the man that has the original stock if he still has it and move the barreled action back and see what happens there which would help in diagnosing a bedding issue.

Thanks guys!

Randy
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  #9  
Old 08-31-2019, 02:17 AM
drstrangelove

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This may seem silly, but I often see vertical stringing and widening groups when barrels heat up...?
I would expect 1Ē bullseye clusters at 100 with that rifle and enough magnification and a rock solid rest.
Is it possible the scope is slipping its adjustment detents? They donít last forever, especially if they get adjusted a lot.
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  #10  
Old 08-31-2019, 02:53 AM
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1813,

I'd be thinking of a trip to a good gunsmith, or at least someone with a bores cope and headspace gauges. As an aside a fellow shooter/machinist made my headspace gauges for beer. You could get away with go (0.043in) and no go (0.046in), but the 0.001in steps.

As for the Anschutz, the factory techs recommend replacing the spring every few years. A new spring is cheap, and I'd rather not have misfires tell me the old one is knackered.
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  #11  
Old 08-31-2019, 06:22 AM
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Any chance you dinged the crown? I had a rifle that had vertical like that out of the box and it turned out to be a bad crown. What's the powder pattern at the muzzle like?
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  #12  
Old 08-31-2019, 08:50 AM
dokey
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What kind of scope mount are you using?
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  #13  
Old 08-31-2019, 10:17 AM
1813Anschutz
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52D

It is using a 1 piece Weaver with Weaver rings that have historically been solid with the Weaver T-16. The crown looks perfect to my eye using a magnifying glass.

Randy
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  #14  
Old 08-31-2019, 10:52 AM
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I know this goes against a lot of 'conventional wisdom' but.....try a pressure pad 2" back from the tip of the forestock.
Then bring the front action screw up just barely snug first then the rear, stand the gun straight up and thunk the butt down on the bench twice to 'rear seat' the action. Torque the front screw up to the light end of the range you think it should be torqued to, then the rear. Record it. Plink with it about 10rds to seat/warm it and you up and shoot a group. Dont worry too much about where it goes on the paper, group is a group. Get it grouping then tweak the scope in.
If need be incrementally increase the screw torque. Front then back, but you need to actually loosen the screws a bit (not with the torque driver, pls) and re-torque to the next higher setting. Retest as above.
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  #15  
Old 08-31-2019, 10:58 AM
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Btw, you probably should try the torquing technique sans the pressure pad first. Who knows, it might just settle down.
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