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  #1  
Old 01-17-2009, 07:55 AM
NeonXYZ

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Glenfield Model 20 help??



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I've got an old Marlin & Glenfield Model 20. I took it out to clean it and found the bolt will not close. When I slide the bolt forward, I cannot turn the bolt handle more than a few degrees.

The only thing I can figure is that the Cartridge Guide Spring looks to have broken off, but I'm not sure why that'd stop the bolt handle from turning. Is that it or is there any other reason that would prevent the bolt from turning and locking in place?

Question No. 2:

I'm new here and don't want to muddy up the board with several Model 20 threads, so, are rear peep sites available for the model 20? My 20 has two small drilled and threaded holes towards the rear left-hand side of the receiver...I'm not sure if those were original, factory holes or if they ere drilled by the original owner. I'd like to add a scope mount or peep sights (if available) but I'm not sure if I can use those holes or need to send the gun to a smith.

Thanks for your time!
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  #2  
Old 01-17-2009, 10:46 AM
ShootsAtSky
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Neon,

Yes, the cartridge guide spring breaking off can definitely jam the bolt. The end that broke off guides the spring up over the bolt, without it the spring stays down in front of the bolt and keeps it from seating. You might be able to bend the end of the spring up enough to work, but it probably will need to go to a gunsmith to pull the barrel and replace the spring, unless you have access to a good hydraulic press. It can be done at home with just hand tools, but you run a fairly good chance of ruining the barrel. There are a couple of threads on how to pull the barrel on the older Marlin bolt actions, take a look at them for more info.

Peep sights are still available, either new or used. Check post #12 in this thread. https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...d.php?t=257549

Bob

Shoot at the sky, try not to miss...
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  #3  
Old 01-17-2009, 12:39 PM
NeonXYZ

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Hey, thanks a lot for the info and reply, man! It's nice to finally be able to diagnose the problem, even if it'll require a smith.

I was hoping that I could just heat up the area and tap out the barrel retaining pin...then slide the barrel off to replace the spring. As far as I know, the barrel's not threaded into the receiver, so I figured it'd be pretty simple. Huh...I guess the years of playing with ARs and 10/22s has left me a bit spoiled.

Anyway, thanks again. I'll go and try to find those old barrel pulling threads you mentioned and see if they might be some help.
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  #4  
Old 01-17-2009, 03:57 PM
ShootsAtSky
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Neon,

Give it a try, the cross pin is pretty easy to get out. It should have been driven from the right, so it comes out by hitting the left side. But, check for swage marks, it's always possible that someone had it apart and put it back in reversed.

Once the cross pin is out, soak the barrel shank overnight with a penetrating oil like Kroil or Breakfree, not WD 40. If it will move with a couple of taps, you should be able to do it your self.

If you want to give it a really good try, put the receiver and barrel in a freezer overnight (or outside if you live up north). Then throw it in a vice, use a heat gun (no open flame with the oil present) on the receiver, quickly so you don't heat the barrel. Give the barrel a couple of taps to see if it moves.

If if doesn't move, take it to a gunsmith before you damage the chamber and barrel face.

Mine took a 12 ton hydraulic jack, three freezer sessions and more than a few love taps, but it did come out and the new one went back in. A 50 Cal Muzzle Loaders musket ball works well to protect the chamber and barrel face.


Bob

Shoot at the sky, try not to miss...
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