close-up, underside of trigger
another close-up of trigger assembly
Trigger components, magazine safety disconnect, etc. To reassemble this first I install the hammer/sear. I then half cock the hammer to allow room for the rear of the trigger bar to fit into the hammer components properly. I then install the internal safety, set to fire position, followed by the little spring that accompanies it. I then remove the double spring and install the magazine disconnect safety and trigger components over the trigger pin, wiggling the rear of the trigger connector under the hammer components as I do.
I then make sure the trigger pin is sticking through enough to hold everything in place while I carefully compress the double spring, sliding 1/2 of it under the right side frame where hopefullly it will stay while I press on the left side of the frame. Some people do this in a baggy so if it slips off and flys away it can't go far. I then make sure the trigger pin is positioned far enough to the left to properly hold the slide catch mechanism.
hammer/sear components
Sear, notice spring position. The ear sticking up will rotate forward to a horizontal position upon reassembly and will have to be pressed down for reassembly of the hammer assy.
Hammer components, center pin must be set with shoulders flush on each side upon reassembly
Hammer assy. reassembled onto pistol frame. Notice how the connector fits between the legs of the sear, how the hammer and pivot pin are seated and how the hammer spring is in a relaxed position for reassembly. The hammer spring leg will now be lifted slightly and placed behind the frame for proper tension. In this photo the hammer is still in a relaxed position with the sear exerting no influence.
In order to fit the trigger bar into the strigger assembly it will be necessary to place the trigger in the half cock position, carefully, so as to not dislodge it from the right side frame where it is now held by the pivot pin. Upon reassembly of the frame halves it takes a little wigglin to align the hammer pin on the left side into the hole it fits in. Not hard to do just a little wiggling.
Hammer spring now placed in the proper position for reassembly. Note no lubricant is shown as I now lubricate with a spray of Rem Oil with teflon, blown off with compressed air followed by an application of dry moly/teflon powder applied with a q-tip.
The components you are looking at in this thread have over 16,000 rounds of wear or lack thereof. The photos have also been photo-shopped slightly to bring out details so some may appear slightly weird in color and texture.
The roll pin must be pressed out in order for the breech block to be removed. Believe the safety must be rotated to fire position also. The breech block then slides out forward along the inside top of the slide.
The breech block properly installed. You may be able to see where I removed 0.020" from the rear of the underside of the breech in order to give greater relief of hammer drag. Works fine too. Leave the rear portion ramped up to the safety roll bar to keep things smooth. Note the oval firing pin disconnect button, the thing that dents the little hump. With the small spring correctly installed on top of this piece it can be pressed up and down and should work smoothly. Also notice the extractor and pivot pin that holds it in place.
To remove the extractor and spring, take a drift and press this small roll pin out the bottom of the breech block.
The extractor and spring will then fall out. reverse for reassembly. Note that this spring has been stretched. The extractor has had the tip peened and the nose carefully polished where it rubs against the chamber groove. All of this to correct ejection direction. Works too.
Extractor pin reinstalled and seated flush.
Plastic guide bar installed through the slide and spring. Notice it is pressed against the guide bar. Simply pull the slide rearward with the hammer cocked and the spring/guide bar will allow the slide to easily be reassembled. The slide is pulled rearward just enough to reengage the slide grooves on the frame rails. With the slide in the fully rearward position you will have to press down slightly against the hammer tension to properly align the grooves/rails before you are able to slide the slide forward. Then simply push the polymer slide release mechanism back up and it is back together.
put it back together right and it will still look like a P-22.
Then you can do some shooting. Hope this helps, 1911M
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