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  #16  
Old 10-27-2017, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1917-1911M View Post
http://www.waltherarms.com/wp-conten...ison-Chart.pdf

Above is a chart you might find some interesting information on. 1917
Oh no, the PPQ has a pot metal slide, again.
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  #17  
Old 10-27-2017, 06:32 PM
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Thinking aloud here re the trigger job. Lubricating the sear/hammer interface reduced trigger pull from ~7lbs to ~5lbs which made a big difference, a little less would be nice but otherwise it's all good.

So, what's the best way to reduce pull a bit more without otherwise changing the other characteristics? Polish the interface for sure and then what? A change to the interface angles so that when the trigger is squeezed and the sear starts to move away from the hammer the angle is more favourable to disengagement.

Practically that would involve removing metal from the sear towards the tip, not reducing the length of the sear's tip but removing metal to change the angle of the sear's engagement with the hammer. This would mean that the angle is opened out a bit so that pressure from the hammer spring would slightly aid disengagement.

Does that make sense, is it even understandable?
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  #18  
Old 10-28-2017, 02:18 AM
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Reducing the angle is one way.

You should consider having spare parts just in case, and working extremely carefully and accurately. Taken too far an angle change can make a very dangerous gun.

Just think of poor Marvin.
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  #19  
Old 10-28-2017, 12:25 PM
1917-1911M
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Sear engagement angles are generally referred to as positive ( safe), neutral ( lower pull but safe) and negative ( unsafe ). Goodle sear engagement, sear engagement angles, etc. You will find a lot refer to a 1911 but it doesn't matter...the concept is the same. A trigger job where all of the linkage has already been inspected, cleaned up and lubed involves (weaker springs but only on some firearms) then it is smoothness of the engagement surfaces, width of the engagement surfaces ( how far the sear needs to move before releasing the hammer ) more is safe but can allow creep, felt movement of the sear across the hammer hook, so this movement is many times reduced to a minimum but safe amount. Then the angle....a positive engagement can actually move the hammer rearward as the trigger is pulled. Very safe but not the best trigger for target shooting.

And in some pistols....great trigger for target shooting....you just can't get there from here. 1917
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  #20  
Old 10-28-2017, 12:44 PM
1917-1911M
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I should say that there is quite a bit of theory regarding sear engagement and each pistol is different. You can find a lot of information on this for a few pistols....other pistols and there is absolutely none, other than factory drawings which you will not have access to. The lowly P22 actually has a straight forward trigger bar that presses on the lower legs of the sear and rotates the sear off the hammer hook essentially like a 1911. No side of the frame trigger bar there......straight shot from rear of trigger to bottom of the sear.

One of the latest schemes for the 1911 sear is the true radius method. The tiny edge of the sear is stoned using a special jig to match the radius of the parts rotation. The jig has four different holes at various distances from the center rotation point because the length of the sear arm from the center of the rotation point effects accuracy of the cut.

So, this can all get very complex....and manufacturers of pistols we are are discussing are set up with a fairly good trigger but one that is safe and will remain safe with some wear. That of course will not give you the best trigger possible. But is a good way for manufacturers to go when selling to the general public. 1917

Last edited by 1917-1911M; 10-28-2017 at 12:46 PM.
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  #21  
Old 10-28-2017, 01:16 PM
1917-1911M
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Oh, and you need a good trigger pull gauge or you won't be able to measure anything with any accuracy. The Lyman digital is one a lot of people use, very easy, gives consistent reading and allows an average of ten pulls. Not too expensive. If I were working on the PPQ I would inspect the trigger linkage. All good there I would polish the hammer hook while maintaining the exact same angle. Stone to remove roughness, polish with 1,200 grit emery or appropriate stone. Then the sear...the least expensive part. Stone and polish. Test pull as you go. Shorten amount of distance the sear has to move to release the hammer. Engagement angles and spring work would be the last things to tackle. There is no guidance out there for you regarding how to do this. 1917
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  #22  
Old 10-30-2017, 05:41 PM
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Your last post 1917, that's pretty much what I've decided to do. Now that the sear/hammer interface has been greased the trigger is pretty **** good, no noticeable creep. The engagement distance would be about one mm so that's not going to be reduced, thanks for your thoughts, they have helped a lot.

edit - if this procedure was applied to a car engine it would be called 'blueprinting'.

Last edited by pistolboo; 10-30-2017 at 05:47 PM.
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  #23  
Old 10-30-2017, 07:55 PM
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I've had a couple of 327 cu in engines balanced and blueprinted.....back in the day. Turbos take up the slack now. 1917
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