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  #16  
Old 05-24-2016, 08:12 PM
17ghogkiller
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A little update here. I could not get the 20" kidd barrel to shoot at the level it should have after much testing. So I contacted kidd and sent the barrel back with a letter explaining everything I tried. They Contacted me a couple of weeks later and said it wouldn't shoot the guaranteed 1/2" at 50 yards so they are sending a replacement. I asked if I could get a different barrel. They said yes so I opted for the 16.5". Kidd definitely stands behind their products and has great customer service. Here is what it looks like now

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  #17  
Old 05-24-2016, 09:01 PM
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Very nice. I think KIDD actually recommends their 16.5 for accuracy but I could be wrong. Will be a VERY nice rifle to own!
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  #18  
Old 05-24-2016, 09:22 PM
17ghogkiller
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Thanks. It will be wearing a 2 stage trigger by the weekend lol. Always wanted to see what all hype was about. Commando redux haha

Last edited by 17ghogkiller; 05-24-2016 at 09:28 PM.
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  #19  
Old 05-25-2016, 12:21 AM
BigSky1
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I was privy to the raged one hole group he shot with it...

Looks good 17!
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  #20  
Old 06-01-2016, 04:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 17ghogkiller View Post
Thanks. It will be wearing a 2 stage trigger by the weekend lol. Always wanted to see what all hype was about. Commando redux haha
I am not one of the many KIDD worshipers that have taken over on RFC but I have to say the 2 stage you are getting is an amazing trigger and the single stage I put on the African Rose rifle that was given to me by RFC members is a very fine trigger.

Is it $200 finer than the triggers I did for my 2 Twins? No. It is not. I guess I have $35 each or less into those so the question should be is it $165 better? No.

The main difference is about 1/10th inch take up which I never feel after the first shot because my finger rides the trigger out to the reset and I ready the next squeeze (one of the advantages to a semi auto right?) so I only feel the take up (not creep) if I take my finger of the trigger. I guess one thing I will never understand is the people that bad mouth a little take up and then go buy a $300 or more 2 stage trigger that has WAY more take up!!

Having said the above I am betting you will love that trigger. The biggest advantage to the KIDD 2 stage is the extremely light trigger pulls you can get with them. For me it is hard to get a trigger that is too light for group shooting I love 3 or 4 oz triggers. You could never get a safe single stage trigger that light that would work on a 10/22.

I have a Canjar (very rare now and might be worth more than the rifle) on my Rem 788 22-250 that was my first ever centerfire rifle and the first rifle I ever bedded and all the other tuning stuff. I have that trigger all the way down to about 2 oz It is so light I do not let just anyone shoot it and even very experienced shooters I make them shoot bench only and only after repeatedly dry firing. I love it but I have had shooters refuse to ever shoot it a second time!! So this is why I REALLY like the KIDD 2 stage trigger and consider it the best 10/22 trigger available.

I just can not afford them!
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  #21  
Old 06-01-2016, 10:15 PM
17ghogkiller
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I don't know about kidd worshippers as so far the jury is still out on the barrels as I sent one back. I wish I had 5 more of the original green mountain heavy taper like the one on my super stock gun. I will say this though I Don't believe you Will find a better trigger for a 10/22 than kidd. I played the jb weld and hair pin spring game and there in nothing wrong with tinkering , but I was ready for something better and kidd was it. There is no noticeable moment the trigger just breaks. With reference to take up, there is a huge difference in take up between a kidd two stage and other triggers. You cannot compare the two. By the way a scope upgrade is coming. So I will agree with the last sentence in your post
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  #22  
Old 06-02-2016, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 17ghogkiller View Post
I don't know about kidd worshippers as so far the jury is still out on the barrels as I sent one back. I wish I had 5 more of the original green mountain heavy taper like the one on my super stock gun. I will say this though I Don't believe you Will find a better trigger for a 10/22 than kidd. I played the jb weld and hair pin spring game and there in nothing wrong with tinkering , but I was ready for something better and kidd was it. There is no noticeable moment the trigger just breaks. With reference to take up, there is a huge difference in take up between a kidd two stage and other triggers. You cannot compare the two. By the way a scope upgrade is coming. So I will agree with the last sentence in your post
I think we are saying the same thing except I do not use those methods when I do a trigger. Actually I have never even tried the JB Weld Trick or the hair pin reset. I can not comment on either not having done them. Ricochet like the hair pin thing. I was already going in my direction when all that came up with the hair pin and was never brave enough to do the J.B. Weld!!

Usually the only part bought is the hammer. Then I anneal, and drill and tap the sear and then harden it again (trying to drill and tap a full hard Ruger Sear is near impossible). Clean it up and put a new set screw because the one used in the hardening will always be a little nasty and for 5 cents it is easier to just replace it.

Grind the bolt stop to make it auto release. Super easy to do

I cut the trigger blade to accept my torsion springs I wind myself from Brownells spring wire:


I have a cutter that a friend here at RFC gave me when he made his own "new and improved" version The cutter cuts a round groove around the trigger pin hole (Rimfire Technologies Trigger blades comes with the groove already cut). It is designed to use in the drill press or mill or even hand drill but the thing takes a LOT of aluminum very quickly so ?I actually just do it by hand. The metal in a Ruger trigger blade is so soft it only takes a couple minutes by hand.

Drill trigger so I can now adjust sear engagement with an allan wrench and never take the action out of the stock to do so. Drill and tap the side of the housing for a spring stop set screws 10-32 again just to keep things simple but it could be any size). Tap the old Ruger reset spring area to take a 10-32 set screw for over travel. Throw it all together and bench adjust for a close to perfect as possible which means 100% of the time it will not work in the rifle!!
Never have figured out why after doing maybe 25 of these but they ALWAYS need either sear or over travel adjustment in the rifle. Usually sear so it only takes less time than it took to type this sentence.

As I said previously they often have about 1/10th inch take up (this comes from the VQ hammer as near as I can tell) but last night I got out both my Blue Twin and African Rose. I can already hear the disbelievers that always seem to pop up but the trigger on Blue Twin is as crisp as the KIDD Single Stage and it is 1/4 lb lighter than the KIDD 1.5 as shipped. I have never tried to even adjust the KIDD S.S. as it was so nice that to mess with it is taking a chance of messing it up.

I know all that sounds like a lot of work but I have more time than money and enjoy doing my own. After you have made the spring fixture and the groove cutter it is only about an hour start to finish. I am guessing because I have never timed it and I usually already have a cut trigger and 3 different spring wire diameters to choose from made in advance. For awhile I had 6-8 sears done in advance but they are used up now. I have been working on triggers for many firearms since I started in 1977 on my first 10/22 and my T/C Contender. It seems really weird to think I have been doing triggers for close to 40 years

Anyway having said all that to give you an idea of how I do mine (just struck me that it might be fun "How To" tutorial for SuperStock Tech) NOBODY and I mean NOBODY is going to do a safe Ruger trigger that comes close to the trigger you are getting!! You are correct in saying it is the best right now.
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  #23  
Old 06-02-2016, 05:25 PM
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Right Now?

Right now?

I have only used one trigger I considered better than the KIDD Two Stage. RFC member BulZi shot with me when he was doing the prototype work on his electric trigger and his all aluminum bull pup stock. A very nice young man that had just graduated as a M.D. From Vanderbilt U. here in Nashville (he was going to be an eye surgeon but then he was deciding if he wanted to do that or work on inventing specialty tools for eye surgeons to use in surgery). He is one of the smartest people I have ever met and his trigger was brilliant but ugly as looked kind of like a M1 Carbine magazine with a hole for a trigger blade!

Since he never even touched the Ruger sear or hammer or springs it could be as safe as stock all the way done to less than an ounce. The "trigger pull" was just a very good electric touch switch and it had storage for springs so you could go from 3 oz to 3 lb just by dropping in one of the 5 or 6 springs stored right in the housing! Bench rest to squirrel rifle in under a minute! I think he was shooting for a $350-$400 price and I saw something just the other day that makes me think he is now on the market but I am not sure. I know he was concerned about liability issues if some were to get shot with one but every trigger maker has to consider that. A few years back Ruger said that from 1/4 to 1/3rd the price of one of their guns was because of liability!!

Still I think he will be looking at a small specialty market not the quantity that KIDD does just because of the looks of the trigger. I would buy one if I could afford to have it just to test different rifles (it changed out as quick as a stock trigger with KIDD screw type pins) or on a dedicated target rifle where looks do not count. My only issue with it was the look of it. I like pretty rifles. On a "tacticool" rifle it might fit right in.

I just thought people here might find this interesting. I CAN tell you if he markets it the thing will be bulletproof reliable because he was not settling for even the tiniest flaw. Just the kind of guy Jesse is.
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  #24  
Old 06-03-2016, 07:09 PM
17ghogkiller
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Electric trigger no thanks. I'm getting closer with this gun and the 16.5" barrel.
25 yards


50 yards pulled one haha. Still rusty


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  #25  
Old 06-03-2016, 08:36 PM
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  #26  
Old 06-04-2016, 11:34 AM
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It is interesting but I FULLY under the laughing thing. Like I said it is definately a great rigger but I doubt he will sell many. I am really glad I got to shoot it but like I said I will not likely buy one.

So you like you new trigger? Dumb question I know!
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  #27  
Old 06-04-2016, 01:58 PM
17ghogkiller
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Yes I do. Its set at 8 oz and 8 oz. Might want it a little lighter. Bigsky1 said something that explains the cost. You spend more to cut your groups that last 1/8" then the first 2" I'm sure this will lead to a racing analogy and or story that will be a wall of text.

Last edited by 17ghogkiller; 06-04-2016 at 02:11 PM.
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  #28  
Old 06-04-2016, 03:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 17ghogkiller View Post
Yes I do. Its set at 8 oz and 8 oz. Might want it a little lighter. Bigsky1 said something that explains the cost like racing. You will spend more to get that last 5mph than you did to get the first 150.
First let me say those are great groups. Of course much of it is the rifle but we all know that you are very good at steering that rifle. When YOU post a group I know it is telling me how good the rifle is because we know you will do your part.

Having spent 10 years designing and building the chassis and building the engines of the twin engine 140 mph karts I raced I can tell you that BS1 may have underestimated that last 5%. Time and money both. Like I said about triggers I had more time than money but I spent both while still managing Quality Departments in "real" life. Working to 2AM in my shop only to have to get up at 5:30 and run a department just so you can make a race. For instance I could put in a rear axle in 5 minutes OR I could spend 2-3 hours trying to get it to spin as freely as possible

Like what I used to call a "kitchen table Ultimate" where the guy bolts a rifle together in 30 minutes and leaves it like that thinking "That was easy". What all of us found in SuperStock is when you get to that step you still have many DAYS of testing and tuning to make the darn thing shoot as well as it can! That was maybe the best contribution we made in understanding these rifles. It was the tuning that made a good rifle! Of course these days it is easier because of what we learned over the years we have a good idea of what to do BEFORE you hit the range and this means we can help the new builders trim some of that time and money.

Remember when it was hard to make 1/4" Club? Because of that^^^ now we can often make on the first range trip. We put in the time and money and can now pass that to new builders. Always feels good to help the new guys

Getting that last .100 at 50 or even 100 can mean a barrel that costs twice or three times as much unless you got lucky like I have a couple times with Green Mountain barrels. Then again you can buy a Shilen that DOES cost 3 times as much and at least 4 people here have gotten TERRIBLE barrels from them including the one we put on Sophia's rifle, one Ricochet was crushed by (and contributed to his increasing depression)and I think one one BigSky1 bought. They could not even shoot as well as an AVERAGE GM barrel.

I think you said you sent back a KIDD and I thought I would take a step up and bought a Fedderson sporter I have never gotten to shoot (I should have sent it back but a 94 year old friend blued it for me and now I do not want to lose it). I should have stayed with the GM.

Also like racing you can spend that money and find that you still are looking at a turd and you can't tune a turd.

Then there are the things you know you can trust. You just can not go wrong with the KIDD Two Stage if you can afford it! The first time I shot the one Brent had I fell in love.
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Last edited by Vincent; 06-04-2016 at 03:21 PM.
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  #29  
Old 06-04-2016, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 17ghogkiller View Post
Yes I do. Its set at 8 oz and 8 oz. Might want it a little lighter. Bigsky1 said something that explains the cost like racing. You will spend more to get that last 5mph than you did to get the first 150.
First let me say those are great groups. Of course much of it is the rifle but we all know that you are very good at steering that rifle. When YOU post a group I know it is telling me how good the rifle is because we know you will do your part.

Having spent 10 years designing and building the chassis and building the engines of the twin engine 140 mph karts I raced I can tell you that BS1 may have underestimated that last 5%. Time and money both. Like I said about triggers I had more time than money but I spent both while still managing Quality Departments in "real" life. Working to 2AM in my shop only to have to get up at 5:30 and run a department just so you can make a race. For instance I could put in a rear axle in 5 minutes OR I could spend 2-3 hours trying to get it to spin as freely as possible

Like what I used to call a "kitchen table Ultimate" where the guy bolts a rifle together in 30 minutes and leaves it like that thinking "That was easy". What all of us found in SuperStock is when you get to that step you still have many DAYS of testing and tuning to make the darn thing shoot as well as it can! That was maybe the best contribution we made in understanding these rifles. It was the tuning that made a good rifle! Of course these days it is easier because of what we learned over the years we have a good idea of what to do BEFORE you hit the range and this means we can help the new builders trim some of that time and money.

Remember when it was hard to make 1/4" Club? Because of that^^^ now we can often make on the first range trip. We put in the time and money and can now pass that to new builders. Always feels good to help the new guys

Getting that last .100 at 50 or even 100 can mean a barrel that costs twice or three times as much unless you got lucky like I have a couple times with Green Mountain barrels. Then again you can buy a Shilen that DOES cost 3 times as much and at least 4 people here have gotten TERRIBLE barrels from them including the one we put on Sophia's rifle, one Ricochet was crushed by (and contributed to his increasing depression)and I think one one BigSky1 bought. They could not even shoot as well as an AVERAGE GM barrel.

I think you said you sent back a KIDD and I thought I would take a step up and bought a Fedderson sporter I have never gotten to shoot (I should have sent it back but a 94 year old friend blued it for me and now I do not want to lose it). I should have stayed with the GM.

Also like racing you can spend that money and find that you still are looking at a turd and you can't tune a turd.

You just can not go wrong with the KIDD Two Stage if you can afford it! The first time I shot the one Brent had I fell in love.
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  #30  
Old 06-04-2016, 05:15 PM
17ghogkiller
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I'll tell you this, I spent a lot of time and ammo so far tuning. At one point I thought I wasn't going to like this kidd barrel either. Part of that money to get there wasn't just in parts but was in ammo.
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