People keep PM ing me so I'm bringing some forward and will bump this from time to time. Most of you have read em so just ignore. Note, cleaning and lubricating tips are in these as well as ammo recommendations, new gun stuff, etc. M1911
All the Mods- Part 1,2 and 3:
M1911.....one interesting option once you have all the mods made on any given gun would be to have all the steel internal parts (fire control, breech block, etc.) salt bath nitrided, or melonite coated. That would make them very hard as well as very slick and corrosion resistant too. Great compilation of links to the mod threads....thanks!!! Some good items can be had from Brownells......various stones,
they have some files with plain sides so won't remove material from the sides of a channel, cratex polishing set is useful, dykem blue is helpful (but sharpie pens work too).
I had to laugh. Some of the wifes relatives arrived from W Virginia. The boys got .22s for christmas and I was able to round up some mini mags for them. So the husband is sitting around and he says....I bought a new pistol that I'm having some issue with.......would you happen to know anything about Walther P22s?
The only mod left as of now is the rear of the breech block. Unfortunately he had sharp trigger bar ears and 200 rounds has done some damage. We soon had those ears sorted. Trigger pull was 5.5 lbs. He is getting the works....including an O ring.
LoL....that's funny that he fell into the lap of the P22 master. The fact that you had some ammo in hand was nice too. I have a box of RGB bulk that is now reserved for the P22 once I finish all the mods. I have lots of Wolf Target that I usually use in heavy barrel 10/22s. My MkIIs like the Federal bulk better than RGBs too. Once I pull it apart I'll compare it to your P22Q pics....but the trigger bar ears are certainly the same. A flat edge (feeler gage) laid on the bottom of the breech block clears the safety bar.
In looking at the new breech block mod where you are flattening the bottom of the safety bar, that will also have the effect of reducing or eliminating the tendency of the safety bar to be rotated by the hammer. With the hammer dragging on the circumference of the round safety bar, the force is tangential and would act to rotate the safety bar. With the flattened bottom, I don't think the force on the safety bar in cocking the hammer will be nearly as rotational.
Yes, it is much harder to rotate a brick than a round pipe. The hammer doesn't touch the safety when the slide is moving forward. When you cut the safety down in the fire position and the breech block you make a much larger jump for the hammer over the safety when it is set to safe. But, who cares.....what I want is it running 100% when I'm firing.
Had issues with the new guys gun not cycling Federal and Winchester rounds. It simply would not cycle the first three rounds properly. It is now missing two coils and the guide rod isn't needed anymore. Of course the pistol isn't even properly broken in yet and the springs were all new. I wonder if it would be possible for Walther to shorten the recoil spring and still make it work. Dropped the trigger pull to 3 lb 4 oz from 5.5 lb with just some sear and hammer hook work. I'm undercutting the end of the sear just a bit to narrow the faces. 45 degree cut, then very careful polish for face. The hammer hook angle is very posititive so I'm stoning it to about 91 degrees. This one was 91.5 degrees using my optical comparator.....uh, good camera, square photo, huge enlargement, photoshop to lay lines on the parts and then use a protractor. You can do that can't you? Especially if fitment and all the safety tests prove positive. No one gave me a real comparator for Christmas........heck, didn't even get any bullets. M1911
Last edited by 1917-1911M; 12-31-2013 at 06:25 PM.
Bump.
M1911 I've been reading your posts pretty much since I got my 1st P22 in 2005 the day I turned 21. It's a 2004 grey version that's had 1000's of rounds through it. It ran rough for the first few years, ran pretty smooth for several years, and now the last few years is back to hanging up again.
Now that I got a suppressor, i'm wanting it to run smoother. I'm finally going to borrow a dremel from work and do some of these fixes this weekend.
Just wanted to say thank you!
M1911
Linear Mode
