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  #1  
Old 01-26-2013, 12:40 PM
COBrien
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$0.37, 10-Minute Trigger Upgrade



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I've been wanting to upgrade the trigger on my new 10/22 A/W and its "Plastic Fantastic" components. Checked out Brimstone, Swampfox, and GunDoc (renowned Mini-14 gunsmith...), as well as the drop-in kits.

One thing I noticed is that all the high-end trigger jobs and kits include an overtravel screw. eBay is chock full of aftermarket triggers by Rimfire Technologies, KIDD, Power Custom, et al. They all range from $20 to $40 for just the trigger blade.

At this point, I'd rather save my money for ammo when it becomes available. Not to mention I appreciate a rifle that looks more or less factory...

A quick trip to the hardware store led me to a #8-32x5/16" set screw at the low price of $0.37. Got up this morning, stripped my trigger group, and drilled myself a 9/64" hole in the center of the trigger, just below the ledge for the return plunger.

While I had it apart, I chucked the plunger up in my cordless drill and knocked the edges off it with a 320-grit sanding block. Don't know if it helped, but it couldn't hurt, right?

All back together, and it feels like a different rifle. Granted, the trigger weight really hasn't changed, but the OT screw definitely makes it feel crisper.

Last edited by COBrien; 01-26-2013 at 02:40 PM.
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  #2  
Old 01-26-2013, 01:21 PM
Ron 1738
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Also the longer your trigger travel the more of a chance of pulling a shot as the bullet travels down the barrel.
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  #3  
Old 01-26-2013, 02:27 PM
david22

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I installed mine with a similar set screw, but went through the back of the trigger guard. I didn't want to have to deal with multiple installs of cutting the screw if needed to keep my finger from feeling it. After I got it pretty set I took a little super glue and put it on the threads to make me feel better about where it was. I was intimidated that if I shoot it a lot, or pull too hard that the trigger will push the threads I made out.
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  #4  
Old 01-26-2013, 02:35 PM
COBrien
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Originally Posted by david22 View Post
I installed mine with a similar set screw, but went through the back of the trigger guard. I didn't want to have to deal with multiple installs of cutting the screw if needed to keep my finger from feeling it. After I got it pretty set I took a little super glue and put it on the threads to make me feel better about where it was. I was intimidated that if I shoot it a lot, or pull too hard that the trigger will push the threads I made out.
I had that thought, too. But OEM replacement Tupperware triggers are easier to find (and cheaper) than a new trigger group...

I actually fully expected the 5/16" screw to be a tad too long, but it turned out to be the perfect length -- none sticking out through the trigger's surface, and no noticeable depression, either.

Plus, with the more-or-less interference fit due to the trigger not being pre-threaded and going with the smallest hole possible, it takes a bit of torque to turn the screw. I'm thinking (read: hoping) that I won't have to use anything to secure the threads, but only range time will tell.

Last edited by COBrien; 01-26-2013 at 02:38 PM.
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  #5  
Old 01-28-2013, 10:18 PM
Nieman55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COBrien View Post
Plus, with the more-or-less interference fit due to the trigger not being pre-threaded and going with the smallest hole possible, it takes a bit of torque to turn the screw. I'm thinking (read: hoping) that I won't have to use anything to secure the threads, but only range time will tell.
If it comes loose, you can super glue it and be fine. I think it will stay w/o glue.

Your post inspired me, I did the same thing tonight. I also modified the bolt release. I am going to polish everything later in the week when I have time. These factory triggers are terrible but this (and a KIDD spring) made it much better.

I ordered all new oversized pins from Hornett, they were really cheap on Amazon.

This is for my second build, which I'm calling Super Stock. Trying not to replace any parts, instead modify the whole thing.

My first one is all KIDD and I am not doing that again.
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  #6  
Old 01-29-2013, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
Also the longer your trigger travel the more of a chance of pulling a shot as the bullet travels down the barrel.
???
So what your saying is....by shortening the rearward travel of the trigger after the sear has tripped and inserting a solid, mechanical stop will help you from pulling a shot???

Over travel adjustment is great thing. It provides a crisp/clean, shorter/quicker FORWARD reset.
Don't rely or be fooled into using over travel as a rearward pull adjustment...it is not.
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  #7  
Old 01-29-2013, 10:06 AM
COBrien
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dads_addiction View Post
???
So what your saying is....by shortening the rearward travel of the trigger after the sear has tripped and inserting a solid, mechanical stop will help you from pulling a shot???

Over travel adjustment is great thing. It provides a crisp/clean, shorter/quicker FORWARD reset.
Don't rely or be fooled into using over travel as a rearward pull adjustment...it is not.
I understand that a bit of overtravel is necessary to avoid light strikes caused by the sear dragging the hammer (discovered that while adjusting my trigger...). But why shouldn't an overtravel screw be used as rearward pull adjustment?
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Old 01-29-2013, 10:10 PM
nc527

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Quote:
Originally Posted by dads_addiction View Post
???
So what your saying is....by shortening the rearward travel of the trigger after the sear has tripped and inserting a solid, mechanical stop will help you from pulling a shot???

Over travel adjustment is great thing. It provides a crisp/clean, shorter/quicker FORWARD reset.
Don't rely or be fooled into using over travel as a rearward pull adjustment...it is not.
You speak of a shorter forward reset. Would that help with bump firing a 10.22?
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