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Old 04-19-2009, 10:01 PM
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Ural Overhaul VII

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Final shaping.

Check your work more often than normal. It is easy to remove to much material.

Watch the corners, keep them sharp.


Remember what you are working on... This rifle was made under slave labor circumstances many times. The person performing the labor was not thrilled to perform whatever task assigned. Workmanship was only what was required to pass...forget pride in outcomes. I write this because almost everything about these rifles ( I have several ) will require a trade off in outcomes. Sometimes I wonder how they perform as well as they do!! Here is some of the common problems with the stocks.

Barrel channels may not be centered.
Stock sides may not be parallel.
Inletting depth may not be consistent.
Wood quality may vary.
Checkering is always very poor ( EXAMPLES: Run overs, uneven, crooked lines, diamonds turning into squares, no diamond points, shallow depth. Overall this is some of the poorest so called checkering I have ever seen.)

The point is when making a gun built under these conditions into one that has symmetry, you will face trade offs. I will note a few here.

Finally, the outcomes are intended to be ones that most DIYS readers can accomplish.

Stock bore line sanded. A crisp edge is desired here. If there is much damage, do not reduce this top edge. Either let it go, or build it up with wood or epoxy.
One will visually notice a problem here quickly, so do not violate this rule.

Cartridge holes drilled. I like to have my 5 rounds handy during competition, so the rifle need not not be lowered. A little faster for single shots like this one. Since this will be painted, epoxy lines do not matter. Notice the paper on the bottom stock edge. A small piece of wood chipped. Put a piece of cardboard on both sides of the stock and C clamp. Fill void with epoxy. Sand the cardboard off.

Port /lightening cuts extended through the stock. View from the top.

View from the bottom. Ensure the drill pierced the correct location. Drill holes and connect with rat tail rasps. Maintain the cheek piece angle.

Make a sanding block 6" longer than the work piece. This was 3 pieces of wood screwed together and the angel cut the length of it. Glue sand paper to the wood. I use 60 grit paper at this stage. Screw the stock to the table and sand. Maintain contact the entire length, but put more pressure on areas with more wood removal. This block was cut to sand 76 degrees on the side while in contact with the table. Notice the stock has areas sanded at the back and front. The center has a large dip as noted on prior posts. I need to remove material on front and back to even out and thin the stock.

Dip revealed at belly and bore line by long sanding block.

This stock is thicker on the RH barrel channel side. In other words, the channel is not centered. Notice the sanded area is more or less parallel with the top of the stock. Some of this is from an amateur working on the stock sometime in it's history.

Castoff maintained. One may be able to see the stock thickness by comparing the tip of the RH/LH barrel channel. RH is thicker.

Use the big sanding block to straighten the stock belly.

Again, notice the hourglass shaped dip about 1.5 inches from the tip. Sand until both sides are parallel, unless the area falls within a reshaping area. Stop sanding prior to the stock being reduced below the trigger guard fixture.

View from the front of RH/LH/ Center of stock. One can tell here that the stock had several inches removed, from the non-matching ends sanding unevenly. This is where a very long sanding block works best, and evens the surface.

At roughly the same stock thickness, a dissimilar shape emerges. Now they may be evened. I'll most likely reshape the fore end belly to match the two.

LH side as seen with outside light.

RH side as seen with outside light. About time to begin blending the panels and making parallel with the bore line. Notice the "window" in the port at this angle.

More to come,


Last edited by RET; 04-20-2009 at 08:35 AM.
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